what all do i need to make a 383 stroker out of a 350 sbc i already have the machine work done to the block it is .06 over

 

first off, a 383 is a 3.75" stroke with a 4.030" bore.. you will be building a 388.. here is what you need:

stroker crank with 3.75" stroke and 350 mains(bearing size)

either 5.7" or 6.0" rods

4.060" stroker pistons made for a 3.75" stroke and the rods you will be using..

i would just find a stroker kit that is available with .060" over pistons.. balancing is another issue.. you have to buy your flywheel/flexplate and harmonic balancer in either internal balance or external balance.. which ever your rotating kit requires..

 

Dont forget, you also need LOTS of money to build it, and LOTS of time to get it done.

 

Really? I thought they're pretty easy to do? I mean, just like a 350, but the crank is slightly funnier shaped. And sometimes you have to grind a bit of clearance into the block, and maybe use a small base circle cam.

 

i just did a mach price buildup of my 383. itll be costing over 7G's CDN. thats including porting, machining, and custom parts. plus i just HAD to get the fancy expensive **** to keep the pesants happy

 

To do it the RIGHT way, you need special 383 pistons, special 383 rods, a smaller base circle camshaft, special balancing, and special grinding in the block. That all adds up to lots of money and lots of time.
Yes there are cheaper 383 engines out there, but you get what you pay for.

 

Well I guess so. Having never built one, I can't really argue with you and stay credible.

I figured the block grinding was something you can do at home with a die grinder. So for most of us, free.
383 pistons I think are virtually the same price as 350 pistons now.
383 rods are usually the normal 5.7" rods, assuming you're using the 383 pistons. Capscrews make for less block clearancing, but I don't *think* they're needed.
Small base circle I think can be about the same price, or pretty close. I think this one is also not needed always.
Balancing - you've got me there. Balancing a 383 always threw me off, internally it's expensive, externally it's not too bad.

Apeiron nearly convinced me to do a 383 when I rebuilt my 350, telling me it was exactly the same price. I figured since it was the first motor build for me ever, I should add ANY additional complications. Also, ported 416 heads are ok for a 350, but a 383 would be pushing it. Just couldn't do it justice.

 

The cost of parts is comparable between building a 350 and a 383. A moderate flat tappet cam will usually clear a set of stock rods with ARP bolts. More aggressive cams or rollers may need a smaller base circle or clearanced rods. There's no difference in the balancing, it's done the same way for a 350 and 383, unless you want an internally balanced 383.

What does take time is the clearance work. The rotating assembly has to be assembled one cylinder at a time, interfering areas identified, the block taken down again and ground for clearance. Then the entire block has to be completely cleaned again to remove the debris, and the whole process started over again.

 

there is no right or wrong way to make a 383..

no need for special rods or a small base circle cam.. i bought a cam straight out of the catalog.. worked with NO interference problems.. the only special parts you will need are pistons.. the rest is just grinding to make it fit together nicely..