Ok, I'll start off by saying that its rather hard to explain what the problem is with my car, but here goes.
Well, the problem started a couple of weeks ago, not as severe. When driving the car (temperature, time of day, climate did not matter), when I barely put my foot on the pedal, my rpm's would "jump" maybe a couple hundred, like from 500rpm to 1000rpm and back and just continue this "studering" problem. Normally, if I pressed the pedal farther, to shift up, I would be able to accelerate out of it, no problem. I first suspected a vacuum leak. I replaced a couple of destroyed rubber hoses. No luck. Daily driver so I kept driving it around. Next, I replaced the TPS, Also no luck. Now, the problem has gotten progressively worse. Now the "studering" happens at all rpms even at idle. But only when accelerating or my foot is on the pedal (just crusing) when I coast, its fine. When the car is in park, its fine. If I'm at a light (in Drive) it'll still dilate the rpm's but not as bad. I've noticed that there is a pattern (every couple of seconds, in timed intervals). Also at WOT, sometimes it doesn't hook or accelerate like it should. Just chugs along and it sounds like my exhaust has some sort of fast pulsing thump-like sound. All this an no codes are thrown. No SES light. Nothing. I'm not sure what it could be. Sometimes it feels like an electrical problem, spark plugs, wires. I checked those, and everything is connected properly. Sometimes I think its a fuel issue. Clogged injectors? Bad fuel pump? And every now and then, I'll blame the transmission. Has anyone had this problem? I tried the search option, but since its hard to explain. "rpm problems" didn't give me much help. Specs. 1987 Trans Am 305 TPI. 122k mi. Transmission unknown. I've had the problem over 4weeks. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

 

Also, I'm not sure if this is related or not, but maybe we can kill two stones with one bird (yes, I know). This thing also makes a clanging sound (like a bicycle sprocket) after reving the engine and the motor returning to idle. I noticed the clanging/wrench-like sound while messing with the throttle under the hood...Again, thanks for the help.

 

 

Well, nobody's speaking up because they know you won't like the answer.
The clanging sound is the pulley bearing on your a/c compressor clutch is worn and letting the pulley wobble. You can change the clutch but the compressor is probably just as worn. I'd change the whole compressor.
The off-idle surging: I noticed you have the TB coolant hoses bypassed.
If this was free horsepower with no ill effects GM wouldn't have spent the money to put it on every engine. I know, everybody bypasses the TB on rebuilt engines with no problem. Try connecting it back up and seeing if the problem persists. If it does, I'd recommend running some injector cleaner thru the fuel system.

 

I'll look into the A/C compressor, but my A/C doesn't work anyway, so I might just get rid of it. I also have v-belts.
I'll try connecting the tb-coolant back up, but I ran it fine for atleast 3-4months with out a problem. I also put fuel injector cleaner every month or so. Is too much bad? I'm not a pro, I've only had this car for a year and all I've learned about cars and motors and engines has been with that car and with this site...

 

Also, I've noticed that the rpm dilation problem isn't as "violent/severe" when I'm in Drive (as opposed to Overdrive)...

 

Just to clarify on the description of the problem, because i think this is what my car is doing. When idling it is almost like someone is lightly stepping on the gas which raises the RPMs slightly to about 1000. Then it goes back down to 700 or so. This happens at set intervals for me about every 2 seconds. But when you drive the problem seems to go away when going 40 mph +. I have a different car (1989 2.8 v6 camaro) but the problem sounded about the same to me. So if thats what yours is doing please post and any information on fixing the problem you find would also be appreciated.

 

Tuesday is my next day off, so I'm taking it to a mechanic then. The thing that is most frustrating is that no codes are being thrown, so I don't know where to start...

 

yeah mine isnt throwing codes either, but when you take it to the mechanic let me know what he says.

 

Well, I replaced the spark plugs and it got a whole lot better, but not quite gone. Its not as bad, it only does it every now-and-then and only in low rpms and in overdrive. So I am going to replace the wires and the cap and see what that does, I'm still taking it to the mechanic next week. I got regular Ac Delco plugs since I didn't have quite enough for NKG's...

 

replace the ignition moduel inside the distributor, they arent that expensive and that can cause your car to dothat

 

is there a part number or a brand or something to recommend on my engine? I got up to go to work this morning and my car wont start now!!! It was running great last night, but it will barely turn over, maybe a low battery (but I don't know how). Possibly a starter issue, but I'll see if I can get it running again today...

 

So I get up this morning to go to work and the car wont start!? It seemed like it had a weak charge. Everything came on, but all the sounds and dings and hums that come on when you turn the key, seemed to come on slowly, or slow motion, so I go to turn the key and a slow grinding noise is heard. (I'm planning to replace the starter anyway, since I'm pretty sure its going bad) so I missed work and had to wait home until mom got home to jumpstart the car. I've driven it around. I took the battery to autoparts place, and they said the batt is good. I have no clue what caused the drain. If it happens again tomorrow, I'll start checking stuff....dammit!

 

I got a new Accel dist. cap and installed it today. It made a huge difference. Didn't totally get rid of the problem, but 95% of it. I took it to a mechanic and he said that it sounds like the wires are arching. It has regular 7mm wires, but I was planning to replace them with Accel 8.8mm next paycheck. I also want to go ahead and replace the rotor, does anyone know how to take the rotor off? It seems to be riveted on there and I'm not sure how to pop it off?

 

yeah they just pop off you might have to pull pretty hard...and will probably smash your hand on the hood when you do get it off

 

Sorry I havent posted anything, I was out of town. But today I popped off my distributor cap and cleaned the contact points, they were a little corroded. I checked my plugs and one seemed to be loose, so I pushed it on all the way and made sure all the other ones were one tight. Took it for a test drive and only had the rpms "pulse/stutter" twice. And it hasnt done it since. I'm interested in what the mechanic was saying about it arcing though. If you find anymore info about that post it so I can check it.

 

I finally got it fixed. Since I started this thread, it just got worse. I would idle horribly and jolt. I replaced the distributor cap and it worked great...for one day then I started again. So I went ahead and replaced the ignition coil, ignition module, distributor rotor, spark plugs, and ignition wires. I believe the original problem is that my wires were arching (I could see them light up like neon tubes at night) and my stock ignition coil would also light up and lightning. So I replaced the spark plugs first. No response. Then ignition module. No response. I next replaced the distributor cap. Responded, but quickly returned. Then I replaced the ignition coil and rotor. Fixed 90% but still had minor rough idle. Replaced ignition wires and problem is 100% fixed. Now my baby is running 110% better than before!
Parts:
AC Delco spark plugs.
OEM ignition module.
Accel distributor cap
Accel ignition coil
Accel rotor
Accel 8.8mm wires