is it normal for my new 383 HSR motor to run so FREAKING HOT? I mean HOT!!...I cant really tell what the temp guage says but when I pop the hood I can feel so much HEAT from the motor that I know its not normal...I mean it gets so hot that when I shut it off and try to crank it back up the car wont crank....the starter strains to crank it until it cools down.
I drove it for like 10 miles the other day with open headers of course til I get my exhaust run and the car started running like ****, sounded like it was missing, idled high when I came to a stop and I noticed the oil pressure dropped between 30-40 and it didnt go up that much when I gave it gas.....when I first crank the car up my oil pressure is like 70 or more and once the car gets hot it drops...why? is it cause of the oil Im using? Im still in the process of breakin in the motor..well atleast I think I am...I havent taken the motor past 4500 or so...and have only gone just past half throttle.

Some one told me it could be timing? why would that cause all my problems?


if you need to no anything, please ask....I'd like to figure out what my problem is and not **** this new motor up...ive put to much money in it..

 

running open headers can cause drivability issues by hurting cylinder fill, if the timing is too low you will cause excessive heat, and oil will get thinner as it heats up causing oil pressure to drop. What is your base timing set at? what kind of fuel setup are you running?

 

when I set my timing I set it at 6* unplugged.....and when it was plugged I had 29* or so advanced timing according to the gun.....but my timing gun ending up taking a crap and broke...right before it broke I checked timing again and I couldnt get a ture reading....I would unplug the timing thingy..(cant remember what its called) and it would read like 30*......so I really dont even know if my timing is correct....I dont notice my headers glowing or anything.

Fuel? I have 30lb injectors and a walbro255 pump.

 

Have you had fuel trim programming done? As far as timing you sould probably see about 21-24 degrees base and around 36-38 degrees total advance anything over that and you may hurt the engine.

 

How in the world are you running EFI with open exhaust? Remember, even a leak in the exhaust will drive the O2 sensor crazy. I bet it is trying to go into closed loop and then going into "limp-home" mode instead.
Try to get an accurate read on the coolant temp.
Mine is set to run at 190 and with the headers, it'll take the skin off your face when you open the hood after a hard run...
Also, if you run Havoline the OP will drop a bunch when it warms up.

 

My fuel tables have been modified I would think...I running a chip from LSRacingchips.com ..


what would you say is happening to my fuel? would it be running rich or lean? when I fire the car up...it doesnt really change from high rev to idle like my old 305 did...or I guess any other car....My O2 is right at the end of the headers...and then I added some header reducer pipe that was about 4 inches more of tubing...when it was just the headers my A/F guage would show bottom out on lean and once I added the the reducer tubes my A/F gauge now shows more towards normal and touches rich once or twice...

but that doesnt answer why I runnign so HOT? hot enough to not even fire the car back up...I am a total beginner at this stuff...

 

Hot restart problems: 1. Header heat soak in the starter 2.Timing too early 3.Dynamic compression too high for selected fuel 4. Engine overheated
When it won't restart, disconnect coil wire. If engine spins over normal it's #2.
#3 is always indicated by a pronounced "twink....twink....twink" as the engine spins 1/4 turns in jerks with no ignition.
#4 is indicated by coolant rising in reservoir sometimes to over full. Check the timing, mixture and usual suspects. Get a gauge on it.
If it's not #2, #3, or #4 then it's time for:

or a mini-starter.

 

how is the cooling system?? 383's do run a bit hotter than other stock motors due to the bored cylinders.. drill a few 1/8th inch holes in the t-stat to aid flow when the t-stat is closed.. also, how is your airdam looking?? radiator been flushed?? block flushed??

and your timing is really low.. up that a total 36-38.. initial should be around 13-15.. since you have a 23* split..

and for the oil pressure thing, if your tolerances in the bearings were set a bit "loose" then pressure will drop as the oil gets warm and thin.. 30-40 psi is pretty good for oil pressure.. you will notice real pressure drop when you put load on it.. run it through second gear and if the needle goes down, then your oil pressure is dropping.. my motor used to go down to 15+ at the upper rpms.. scary bit considering that rod in my sig was the result of almost 0psi at 6k rpm..
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like supervisor42 said, dynamic compression will heat an engine as well.. what is your static compression ratio and what cam??

 

ok let me try to answer all the questions...

I already have a mini-starter
I have a 180* stat and I did drill 3 holes in the stat outer edge
air damn is good....the radiator is a stocker "brand new" and I have drained it twice...Im running 1 bottle of water wetter and half/half water antifreeze..I have an aftermarket overflow tank and it never flows into the over until after I turn the car off and it sits for awhile then I can see the overflow going into the tank but not alot.

Daynamic compression? hell I dont know? ..Im suppose to have 10:66-1 with my heads (65cc AFR's 195's) zero decked block with felpro #1003 head gaskets and 7cc KB pistons....my cam is 226/232 531/537@50 ...rods are 6"



set my timing with it unplugged to 13*?..isnt that to high? the guy that did my chip said to set it to 6* ....but I think he also said I can set my initial timing to what ever I want cause the chip with take over after that?? I cant remember.

anything else? you need to know?

 

Correct W/P? Reverse rotation if serpentine setup.
Using 93 octane gas?
Fan shroud and stock fan with fan clutch or electric fans?
New engines will run a little hot until the rings break in and smooth the cylinders out.

 

hmmm.. well cant think of anything else for overheating problem.. what kind of fan(s)? mechanical, clutch, electric??

your dynamic comp ratio shouldnt be a problem.. hope you're running 91octane or higher..

as for timing, you just want your total to be midhigh 30's.. how fast do you achieve full advance?? i get there around 2000 rpm..

 

yes correct water pump...edelbrock aluminum high flow
yes 93 octane gas
dual stock electric fans

what do you mean? how fast do I get to full advance? ..how can I tell? put the timing gun on the mark and rev the motor? what should I set the timing to?


heres what Im working with and I dont want to screw it up!..
thanks for the help guys!

 

did you fill your block with antifreeze? maybe your block has some air pockets, specifically at the thermostat. take off the stat housing and look and see if theres coolant in the intake. your oil press will eventually drop as you get your engine temp cooler. but i suggest you change your oil soon...and replace it with something that has excellent wear protection and additives to prevent viscocity from breaking down in the heat.

really theres only one way to check your optimal timing...and thats with a dyno, but since that option is probably too expensive...all you can do is look at what other ppl's base timing is on their 383 HSR.

EDIT: nice setup dude...i love cars on the bottle

 

Damn, that's pretty! Now go hook up that temp gauge...
Stupid question: both fans are on when you come back from a run, right?

 

thanks...that why I dont want to mess this motor up...Ive put to much money in it...and I want to be able to go spank some SVT's before long!..LOL but I cant do much with it running so freakin HOT!...somethings got to be wrong with it/

yeah both fans are running when it gets that hot....actually the drivers side fan starts running right when I fire up the car.

the oil im running right now is that straight 30 weight ROTTELLA
Ive changed my oil 3 times already and only have about 20 miles on the car and about 2 hrs run time...I had to change it to get all the thread sealant out of the oil...I had put to much on the threads and it was mixed in with my oil....its all good and clean now.

no i did not fill the block with anything....I forgot to...but I can squeeze my upper hose and my lower hose and watch the water come thru the radiator.

 

SVT's will be nothing.. stock ones at least.. pullied and tuned ones might be a problem..

well heres my 383 story.. just got it running, stock radiator, drilled t-stat, summit hi-flow h2o pump, pump mounted flex-a-lite fan, no airdam.. ran up to 230+ after 10 miles.. threw on the airdam, went to 210+.. bought an auxlilary 15" electric fan wired to always stay on.. went down to 195+..

then.... got a new AL radiator.. a BIG ***** radiator.. now she runs under 180 in high 80* hawaii weather.. on cool nights, she stays 155.. never been over 185.. ever

 

anyone else with some ideas?

 

where does the "twink..twink..twink" sound come from? cause when it does not start I unplugged the coil wire and heard a LOUD TWINK noise everytime the motor turns over but I cant tell where its coming from..I thought it was my coil or my igniton box...but that sound is there and LOUD!

I am using up alot of FUEL!...I have only put 25miles on it and run the car maybe 3 hrs and already burned up about or almost 1/2 tank....