Ok guys I'm going to the junk yard friday to pick up a block, heads, and possibly tranny. What are some tips for figuring out what parts are good. I'm going to rebuild the motor, (gaskets, seals, new pistons, and rod bearings) I don't want to have to mess with the heads though. The same goes for the tranny. Any help would be awesome.

Also any specific heads I should look for to go on a 1980 350 out of a 1/2 ton truck?

 

you can look for any SBC head out there but some are better than others...

 

Heres what I know.

882 and 993 heads are good...993s are less prone to cracking.
461 and 462 heads are the camel backs...you find those just get em they are worth some $$.

Dont quote me here but I believe a way to indicate a 4 bolt 350 block is an oil sending unit between the 1 and 3 cylinder exhaust ports. But like I said I may have just gotten lucky with my find.

As for a REAL junkyard gem, look in 1970-1980 fullsize GM cars trucks and vans. Then look for a notched 8" balancer (take a tape measurer). That would indicate a 400 small block. I have found 3 just in my local U-Pull-It. A step further would be a 509 casting. That is the high nickle alloy block which can sometimes go .060. As for 2 or 4 bolt on the 400 blocks, a 2 bolt can actually be better by adding splayed mains instead of staight mains.

Thats what I got

 

Thanks for the imput guys. What I more or less getting at is how do I tell if the block is rebuildable and how do I tell if the heads are useable. I know to look for cracks, thats about it.

 

High just wondering if anybody knew the specs on the 882 heads? and what kind of compression i'd be running with flat top pistons and bored to 355... thanks

 

882's and 993's are actually junk, believe it or not. Try a search if you don't believe me. Large chamber, poor runner design, smog casting. I had a set of 882's that I used for practice porting (about the only thing they're good for, if that). They now serve as wheel chucks. Waste of iron for that, too, in my opinion.

 

Yea, disregard some of the wives tale info above, Stekmans got it. 993's are slightly less crack prone, but still garbage. 882 and 993 heads have 76cc chambers, so you can go do the math, but I think it'll be in the 9.3:1 range, depending on factors.

If you're going to a JY to pick up the whole package, here's what i'd suggest; (if i'm not too late on this)

Look for an '87+ 350. Caprice, truck, whatever. Look for one with a roller cam, or at least provisions for it. Rip off the heads, they're junk. Go get some 601 heads off a mid '80s truck/van with a 305. Set those heads on it, and buy it as a complete engine. You can take the intake manifold off the '80s truck/van, you'll probably replace it with something aftermarket anyway. That's my favorite choice for a dirt cheap budget engine. You can throw in a basic aftermarket cam, and port the snot out of the heads and have a 350HP $1000 engine sorta thing.

 

Look for evidence of water damage / rust. Rusted lifter bores aren't worth messing with on a bare block. On complete engines look for signs of water in intake ports/manifolds or exhaust ports. If you're looking at a complete engine ask for permission to drain the oil out of it. If water comes out first, keep shopping. Look for stripped/broken bolt holes, like the ear for the outside starter bolt to be broken off. Cylinder heads are harder to destroy. If the valves have been removed check if the valve guides are split by someone driving out mushroomed valve stems with a punch. This way you don't buy "un-rebuildable" scrap iron.
Good parts: If you find a complete vehicle that has been wrecked you can be sure of one thing: it was running when it got smacked. Every part that wasn't damaged in the collision or by the elements can be assumed good.
Usually this isn't the case though, it's a bunch of parts with yellow writing on a dirt floor in a dark shed. Take a flashlight and shop rags.
Happy hunting!