So I went through my second rebuild and am having some serious problems still...again...whatever. Heres a pic at what I can't get to run correctly..I hate EFI and electronics right now.

With my lack of tuning knowledge AND engine building experience I need to eliminate some problems and headaches. I've read many things about EFI problems going unresolved so I'm debating on converting to carb.

With that said I have some questions...

I've read the tech article on doing this but it left some things out. What do I do about the 02 sensor? The knock sensor an all the other wiring in the bay?

Basically, after I convert to carb what wires will I have left out of my original wiring harness that will still be used?
I have a 6AL and the blaster coil I planned to use with a small cap dizzy.

Anyone wanna buy some great looking HSR stuff??

 

Atta boy!
But damn, that's an immaculate engine bay right there!
O2 should be pulled, and replaced with a bolt. Keep the O2 in case you ever want to swap back. Try to pull back all the wiring and hide it. You may not want to cut it all up, just in case.

I'm not sure what's in you "wiring harness", I never understood that term, since looking at my engine bay I can count the wires under the hood with one hand.

Temp sensor in DS head for gauge
OP sending unit wire
Choke wire
Distributor power / distributor tach wire
I'm pretty sure that's it.
5 wires. Boom, done.

 

What are you looking to get for the intake and fuel rails? Just the basic stuff i have the rest.

mwc_hall@yahoo.com is my email...

Mike

 

Wow, I mean...god damn.
You even painted the brake booster....
Nice work man, you got me green with envy.
But dont go carb, figure it out if ya can. Im sure all you need to do is find a guru in your area.

 

are you going to use the tpi distrubutor, or getting a different one, im saying this because, yes the msd 6al will work with it, but you will have to also invest in a timing computer, the tpi is a locked distributor and you will have no advance with just it and the 6al

 

Well, heres where I'm at...
The car won't run hardly at all. Smokes something terrible and the smoke stinks to high heaven, this may just be the headers burning off still.
If I keep the throttle depresses with constant pressure the RPM's will fall and the car will die

It doesn't sound too great either, I have a bad noise coming out of the exhaust, hard to explain but not a good rumble I like to hear. I just built the motor and am second guessing my motor assembly skills SO I'm trying to throw my friends old Performer intake on there (free), get a dizzy ($70 eBay), hopefully a good deal on a 750 carb and buy a 3 port AFPR and see if all my problems really do lie in the wiring and fuel injection or if something is wrong with the shortblock itself. I just want to be able to drive the car again but can't afford to keep throwing money at it, expecially with the small amount of knowledge I have at the moment.

I'll obviously have to buy the fittings to go from my custom fuel lines to the carb (side note: I'm EXTREMELY new to carbs) but that should be it.

I'm just confused with what will still need to be hooked up to the car or if the computer will control anything (ie: The fuel pump! It won't prime when the ignition is on if theres no comp, right?) Also, I guess I can jsut unhook the knock sensor (Do any carb cars come with knock sensors???)

I have a feeling this will just result in a lot of work and more problems but I can't give up on her just yet.

 

Third gen carbed cars came with knock sensors. But you dont need that, because those were computer controled carbs. You can still run a electric fuel pump, just hook it up to a switched ignition source.

 

Make shure you get a return style regulator. The stock pump dosent like to deadhead.

 

Like Sonix said- it only takes a very few wires to run it with a carb. I can't think of anything to add to his list. Maybe I'd add that you can keep the aux. cooling fan temp switch in the pass. side head hooked up as well. And, of course, the alternator and A/C wiring won't change, either. But that's about all you need.

If it's currently a small cap computer controlled HEI with divorced coil you will need to modify the wiring harness to work with an earlier large cap non-computer-controlled HEI (the easiest distributor conversion). The wiring harness that hooks to the stock remote coil (not the pigtail going from the coil to the distributor) will have 2 wires. A big pink one and a small white one. The big pink one goes to the BATT/12V+ terminal on the large cap HEI and the small white wire goes to the TACH terminal on the large cap HEI. All your gagues will still work, too.

 

That's an alright idea to test though. I mean, grab a CHEEP carbed setup, preferably with a carb that is KNOWN GOOD, ie, you saw it running on another car in the last few days sorta thing. Then you bolt it all up, and if your car runs great, you at least know where your problem was, then you can decide where to go after that.

 

You still don't have that thing running??

 

Heck no man. You know my luck. Got a whole new set of problems.

Sonix I do plan to go as cheap as possible, trust me!

Damon, thanks for helping with the dizzy wiring. I don't know if I'm going to go with the large cap HEI or another small cap thats non computer controlled.

If anyone can answer these questions I have it would make this much easier on my mind at this point...

1. What about the starter wiring and the alt wiring with the computer gone? Will they still work correctly (I thought the alt was controlled somehow by the comp).

2. Will the oil press sensor above my oil filter still work correctly without the comp?

3. Without the comp will the ignition still turn on or do I need to run new wiring to my 6AL, coil, and Dizzy? (Basically how would I wire the 6AL, small cap dizzy, and stock type coil together?)

4. Finally, I'm going to stick with the in tank pump since I've replaced it but without the comp how will it prime?

Basically, I think the comp has an effect on everything somehow and am trying to understand how everything works withtout it.

 

http://5finger.8m.com/tpi2carb/tpi2carb.html

Pretty much that.

Edit:
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/6%20series/6series.pdf

Scroll down to the wiring diagrams.

 

If you want to just go dirt cheap, to see if it works,
grab a distributor from the wreckers, $20 off a mid '80s cutlass. Grab the q-jet and intake from the same car, and LG4 setup. You can walk out under $70 I imagine. If it doesn't get the car running right, and you determine its a shortblock problem, return it, it's usually 90 days. You'll get credit for the place, but i'm sure you can find a way to spent that sooner or later. That's what i'd do at least. I'm still running the JY q-jet and dist, I just need a coil and module to be able to spool over 5000RPM and do it with some grace.

I'm not sure if Stekmans info covered all your bases, are you clear now, or are some of your questions unanswered?

 

Well, most of my confusion lies within this stupid computer so I am going to take it for granted everything will still work that I need to work when I remove the ECM.

However, I will have many more questions as I enter the carb era I'm sure.

 

Got some stuff worked out, either way I'm defenitly going (gone) carb for(almost)ever so everything is for sale.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...lokar-n20.html