Well I built my 355 with a bigger cam. And I can't seem to get it running decent. I was told the computer won't run with the cam and that it needed to be programmed. So I bought an Ostrich to do some tuning with. I noticed the heads were leaking a little oil so I retorqued them down and readjusted the valves. When I start the car it idles fine at first, but after a few minutes the ses light flashes real quick and the car cuts out. It doesn't completely die tho. As quick as the ses light comes on it goes off and the car idles again. In order to keep the car running I have to adjust the throttle blades, but when I adjust the blades open more the lowest the tps can be adjusted is .63v. But either way the ses light still comes on and off and the car dies and continues to idle. What in the world should I be looking at to figure this out. I've checked for leaks but can't find any. I really need some help. I've been messing with this for months now. Thanks for any advice.
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And if it matters I just replaced the dist, came with a new pickup coil, and ign control module. The fuel pump is stock w/21lb inj. THe injectors are a few months old, so assume there working fine.

 

How big of a cam?

 

CompCams XFI268 along with TrickFlows 23degree 195 heads

 

I don't know very much about proms and tuning but I think it's switching between open and closed loop.

 

Well I'm still having the problem. It seems to run good until it's nice and hot. I changed the bin and went out for a ride and it drove awesome, but on the way back it started acting up. The ses light would flash real quick and the speedo would just quick working. Then all of a sudden it would drive fine again. Once I got back to the house the motor just quit all together and wouldn't run at all. Any ideas? It's acting like another bad ignition control module again, but this one is brand new. Could it be something else? Does the coil on these cars have to be grounded? Any help would be appreciated, the computer isn't storing any codes and I'm not sure were to start looking. Thanks

 

sounds to me like the ecm is going south.

 

maybe a bad ground if the speedo cuts out, do other gauges cut out too?

 

Try putting the old distributor in.I had a bad pickup coil do that to me about ten years ago.

 

Well the dist is brand new along with the pickup coil and ignition control module. No other gauges cut out just the speedo, ECM?

 

i'm going with bad ground or plug on the ecm. if it is not storing codes and the speedo cut out that is where i would look. did you do any painting when the engine was apart? that will cause i bad ground been there done that. also did you remove the ecm when you where working on the car. if so make sure the blue and grey locking tabs are still on the ecm plugs.

 

Alrighty I'll start checking the grounds. Thanks for the reply. Is there a way I can test the grounds at the actual ecm?

 

yeah you have to pin out the plug at the ecm. i just went through this with my gta pain in the @$$. a good manual should show you what wire is what. my car is a 89 so i can't tell you from my book what wires it should be. is this the 92 t/a? if so i will try to look it up on alldata for you.

 

yeah it is a 92T/A I have the haynes book on it so I'll look at the wiring in the back to see if it tells me what the grounds are. I have a volt tester will I be able to use that to test the grounds?

 

if you have an ohm setting then yes. touch the two leads together and that should be the reading you should see when you ground one and pin out the plug. make sure you the computer unpluged when you do this. some meters will feed power back to the ecm and can fry it. if it is made for automotive the you should be fine.

 

alright thanks alot. Hopefully I'll be able to find my problem. I can't wait to get back to the track.

 

Well I've checked the grounds and they're all fine, I just don't get this. Code 33 and 42 set again. Could they be setting due to car actually dying? Could all of this be fuel related?

 

Well I was going tru the datalog I made with TunerPRo and I can see when the car dies and comes back to life, only takes a split second. The only thing I can see that's real wierd is the spark, right after the car comes back on the spark adv rel. to tdc is real high like 29.88 and the spark adv rel. to ref pulse is only 1.41 degrees. Just about everything goes to a zero when it happens, and right back to a normal reading when it kicks back on.