I have an 87' camaro. I had a column that was the classic pick it up in your hands and move it where ever you want it to go. I figured that was a little unsafe, so I bought a different one out of a salvage yard.

The tilt joint is just fine. But the u-joint(or whatever you want to call it) that makes the bend is loose. I can hear it bouncing back and forth while driving down the road. I want to fix it but I don't want to have to get another column that will probably be just as bad.

The problem is I don't know where to get the joint from. I thought O'Riellys told me the sold them before, but I went in a different one today and they told me that it would be a salvage yard or dealer item. Well, the salvage yard would be just as bad as the one I got. I went to an Acdelco website and couldn't find the joint, just the lever and a seal.

Anyways, if anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

 

Had you repaired the original column, you would have saved a few bucks, and all the time needed to swap them. Now you get the repair the replacement column, anyway.

If you still have the original column, you're in luck. If not, you may be looking for yet another column for the parts.

Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.

Next, remove the hazard flasher **** on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the **** in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.

Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.

Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.



When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that hold the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.



Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to unplug and feed down along the column.



Remove the column tilt release lever by unscrewing it. Set it nearby since you will need to reinstall it after the upper bowl trim jacket is removed. Remove the turn signal / multifunction lever shaft by carefully pulling it out of the switch. Unplug the cruise control wire harness (if equipped). Remove the remaining upper bowl trim screws and lift the upper bowl off the column. Find the column tilt release lever and thread it back in hand tight for now.

Remove the upper steering shaft bearing nut and retainer clip. Remove the upper bearing set. Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column.



Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.

Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller. Assemble the parts as shown, fully bottoming the screw by hand (to get the maximum thread bearing strength), then back it off a turn or two in case the bolt snaps later. Once the screw thread is set, run the nut down with a wrench to jack the pivot pin out of the column die casting. It the screw snaps, there should be adequate material to back it out by hand (which is why you didn't bottom it out to begin with). Usually, the pin will pull easily once it starts moving and deforms the stakes that were retaining it.



Once the pins are removed, operate the column tilt release lever and remove the upper column half. Note the routing of the ignition switch linkage rod(s) when you remove the upper column half. Tilt the upper stub shaft and universal joint to allow the joint to be separated.

At this point, you should be viewing the top of the lower column half and four Torx cap screws. Remove these screws and the upper column support. Mark the position of the upper steering shaft so that it can be installed in the same relative position, or the steering wheel may end up upside down. The upper steering shaft should now be able to tilt far enough to disengage the two-piece nylon ball swivel. Disassemble the two nylon ball halves and inspect the preload springs between the pieces. Weak springs or worn nylon segments are the likely cause of the loose feeling you are now experiencing.

Once you either repair or replace the worn parts, reassemble the upper steering shaft to the lower shaft and install the upper column support. Clean the four mounting screws and apply a light coating of LocTite 242 or an equivalent medium strength removable thread locker. Tighten the bolts by hand until all four are reinstalled. Torque these bolts to 130 in/lb.



Reassemble the upper column half in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.

When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb.

There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have either since the column was replaced.

 

Can't add anything on the technical side, but you can 'rent' the lock plate remover and steering wheel puller from AZ or the equivalent and maybe save a few bucks.

Wonder if Vader drew all those neat pictures to go with his writeup? Better than the technical article on this site.

 

I either drew or redrew all the images (as I normally do) to avoid copyright infringement problems. As a moderator, I wouldn't want the administration of TGO to get any sensitive parts caught in any wringers.

And I do try to be thorough, noting that some of the Tech Articles here may not be completely accurate.

 

well that was long but very thorough. Thanks alot! So I'm guessing since you said if I don't have the old column I might be looking for another column, that means you can't buy replacement parts? If they are available, where at?

I do have the old column but I don't know how good that is because it was so wobbly that I couldn't tell where all it was loose at. I just know that the metal bowl or whatever was broken. It didn't just move up and down it moved up down side to side, pretty much anywhere you wanted it you could put it there, it just wouldn't stay though.

But thanks alot for the instructions.

 

I'm guessing that the nylon/Delrin swivel ball and springs on the original column are still intact, so you have all the spares you'll need. You can even practice on the old column, since you may need that ball anyway.

Don't be surprised if you discover that the problem with the old column was simply loose bolts - It's too late now. If the four bolts which I instructed to be LocTited are loose, the steering wheel will move up, down, side-to-side, and just about anywhere you want it, but it won't stay, just like you describe. You'll see when you get in there.

Oh, and put on some pants, will ya?

 

I appreciate the effort that went into that. My first trip into a steering column (years ago) was guided only by a blurry image in a generic repair manual. A digital camera as I tore it apart was the only thing that saved me, I mean the column...

 

Well I'm just now getting to tearing into the steering column, the old nylon ***** are still good no play at all.

I knew before I ever got the salvage column that the old one was junk. I could see in the joint where it pivots that the cast aluminum was cracked and pieces were broken off. That's why I didn't even try to repair it, would have been replacing too much and less of a hassle to just change the column.

Thanks a whole bunch for the instructions again. I was just wingin it up at the shop I work at and just could not figure out how the pivot pins come out, had to come home to read your guide and it saved my day.... Thanks a bunch!

 

how do i test the nylon and the spring? by spring i assuming you mean the horse shoe looking thing? it seems to be a little off even (teeters ) on flat surfaces. what am i looking for on the nylon ball? thanks.

 

Anyone know where to get a replacement retaining ring for the lock plate? Mine flew off somewhere and I can't find it. And it was bent out of shape anyways. I just unwound and put a key ring in its place.

And where to get the safety clip? Mine broke.

 

I'm having to fix a "key stuck in ignition" problem right now, and boy - those pictures would be awesome if they were there...
Apparently there's a way to adjust the linkage between your transmission "park" point, and the ignition switch - I can't figure out how though... Anybody have a picture of this mystery adjustment point?

Thanks

 

The ignition switch is on top of the column underneath the dash panel. Don't think those pics would be in the above. The ignition switch is connected to the shift lever (automatic?) by a cable, ignition switch position on the column is adjustable for its connection point to the rod that actuates it from the key cylinder. The cable releases a little detent pin in the switch that keeps it from going into 'start'. Don't think anything down there could cause a key to be stuck in the cylinder, though.

If the cylinder won't turn back it's likely a busted cylinder. Getting to the cylinder is pretty simple-you don't have to dive in very far.

 

I already replaced the cylinder, and I still couldn't get the key back to the off position. From some searches, I am led to believe the transmission being in park (and the linkage that indicates this to the ignition lock cylinder) could be to blame. I'm just trying to figure out what indicates from the transmission to the lock cylinder that it's in park.
(not my usual '82 car here, a friends '85)

 

All of that's in the ignition SWITCH down under. There's a cable connected to the switch that prevents it from engaging 'start' with the trans not in park. The cylinder turns and engages a rod that rides along the column to the switch. The rod pushes down to go from 'off' to 'run' to 'start', it pulls back up to go to 'acc'. The rod IS connected to the switch (I erred earlier). I would check this switch underneath the hush panel above the column. It may be fried (melty) and stuck in one position-I've seen that before. Be prepared to be frustrated trying to get to this. The rod is connected to the switch at the bottom, between the switch and the column (the switch is on top). You may try to loosen the switch, allow it to slide, and see if that motion is translated to the cylinder. If not, the rod or cam could be hung up on something within the column.

 

Attached is a pic of the switch. If you have to replace it there are a few tricks that make it easier. Let me know.

 

Yea, i'm just trying to get to it now (tonight I imagine).
I need to remove the turn signal cam and wiring, which I believe requires me to remove the "saddle" below the steering shaft, such that I can pull that wiring back up and out. What a bast*** to work on...
I'll try to check the rod, and the cable from the tranny and see if everything is in good working order.

 

If you undo the harness connector for the wiring under the hush panel, it should allow enough slack to pull it out enough to get it over the end of the steering shaft.