I want to build my shortblock instead of paying a shop to do it.

That means buying a lot of tools. I dont think I'll save any money, but I'll learn a lot and tools will in theory pay for themselves over time. Problem is I'm trying to figure out what all I'm going to need. I've got Speed Pro hypers and pre-gapped rings, so I dont think I'll need to worry about that.

I need to make an inventory of EVERYTHING I'm going to need, and this is my list so far:

Engine stand
Torque wrench (Suggestions?)
Good set of sockets and ratches is a given
Ring compressor
ring expander
plastiguage
assembly lube
feeler gauges

Am I going to need a balancer puller/installer for this? Maybe some tap sets?

Just trying to get my ducks in a row to see if this is feasible. Also, any recommendations about what tools to get would be great too.

 

Also need:
Balancer puller/installer
Engine cleaning brushes

Should have:
Crank turning tool and/or flywheel turning tool

Might consider:
Dial indicator and stand
2-3" and 3-4" Micrometers
Bore gauge
Deck bridge
Cam bearing driver
Ring filer
Checking springs
Valvespring height micrometer
Adjustable pushrod
Valvespring compressor

 

Reasonably good start.... a few suggestions....

Add a 0-6" caliper, good to within .001"
Add a dial indicator with mag base

Drop the plastigage, it's worthless, the other tools do everything that stuff does and 10 times more besides.

Yes a tap set is a good thing, you just never know....

You'll need some materials too. Some emery cloth (fine, medium, & coarse), some wet/dry sandpaper in various grits (I HIGHLY recommend 3M brand over the others you typically find at the home center stores), something like 240, 400, 1000, & 1500 grit; a gallon of lacquer thinner; some coffee filters, which are EXCELLENT lint-free wipes; some pieces of 3/8" vinyl tubing or fuel line, to put on the rod bolts as you install them, so they don't nick the crank; white lithium grease, for rocker *****, push rod ends, roller cam lobes, etc.; gorilla snot; silicone; 2-stroke oil, for the rings; moly grease for flat-tappet cam lobes; thin synthetic motor oil, or ATF, as bearing pre-lube; a coffee can, and some kind of metal bowl or pan about 6" diameter, for parts cleaning; diesel fuel to pre-clean stuff if you're re-using old parts.

I'm sure others can add to the list, but that should get you started.

 

Reading between the lines it sounds like you have little experience inside a motor. A good quality manual and/or someone who has been inside and knows what to look for would be first on my list.

I only say that because most people who have reworked engines before would either already have the tools or know what is needed. No offense intended.

Depending on the block a ridge reamer.

 

I just used a normal file to fit custom fit the rings. You use a file and your feeler gauges, it's easier than you think. I think I used needle files to chamfer the edges. I'd recommend doing this.
the book by vizard "how to rebuild an SBC" is a very good read. Covers the things you usually don't find else where, ie making sure your rings aren't upside down, how to get the piston rings compressed to get the pistons in there (without breaking stuff), etc etc.

I rented a balancer installer, since you really only use it once. I bought a cam bearing installer.
Freeze plugs - I used a big socket, and a rubber hammer I think. I used a GOOD sized pair of.... the name escapes me now, the pliers that are adjustable? (not vise grips), along with a snipe - to remove them.

I like the summit crank turning socket, $21. It's for turning it over to test it. Put on your balancer later (after setting up your valve lash), since you can't use the crank turning socket once the balancer is on.

Torque wrench - I have a cheap 1/2" beam style one, which is nice with the crank turning tool to see how much torque it takes to turn it over. I also have a 3/8" click style one for everything else - main caps, rod caps, etc.

I tried the coffee filters on sofa's advice - I wasn't a fan, they didn't do much for me.

FWIW - All rings are pregapped, are they set up FOR YOU? No, they're set up for some other joker building a stock replacement engine, you'll want to regap them yourself.

I used plastigauge, more of an "atta boy" than anything else. If you're comfortable with the machine work, you don't really need it.

I paid $60 for my machinist to install my cam bearings for me, the next time I did it I paid $60 for the tool and did it myself. Think about that for a sec eh?
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Watch for brake-kleen to go one sale, I used up a fair bit of that when cleaning up stuff right before install.

 

None taken, that's exactly why I started the thread.

I've got several books, even a cool video, but I do lack any sort of expert oversight at this point. I've either have to buy the tools and learn to do it or pay for a machine shop to do it. I'm torn at this point over which is the better option. And everyone had to build their first motor at some point, right? I just have to decide whether that time for me is now, later, or never... It's definitely not a certainty that I'm going to be putting it together, but I'm just trying to do a cost-benefit analysis in my head.

The block is fresh, just gotta clean it out again and get my rotating assembly balanced and it should be ready to go together.

 

Brass Hammer, or a wooden rod or Brass rod to lightly tap the pistons into the bore.

 

Deadblow hammer. It's filled with BB's or sand granules so that it doesn't bounce. We used that thing for just about everything in auto class. It's also plastic that's softer than a brass hammer, so you can use it in situations where you don't want to damage anything.

 

I just take a regular BFH and use the butt end of the wooden handle.

 

The majority of the tools you will need can be rented from AutoZone or someplace similar or there is a buddy somewhere who has what you need or knows where to get it.

Everyone has built their "first motor". Whether you do it yourself of have someone do it doesn't matter whatever you can afford to do, I will tell you there isn't a better feeling than hearing your first build light up for the first time. I thought it well worth any amount I spent to know I did it and it works.

 

Didnt you actually buy 2 or 3 tools, amongst all the waiting for them, and install more then 1 set of bearings?? :P

Its totally possible im mis-remembering, just trying to make sure we are being honest ;0

 

haha, damn, someone here to keep my honesty with a good memory.
In the beginning, I had the machine shop do the machining, and I paid $60 to install cam bearings.

6 months later, I toasted my cam, and rebuilt it all myself. I had no way to get my block to the machine shop, so I bought the summit house brand cam bearing install tool ($60) and the cam bearings ($12). Unfortunately it was machined poorly, so I pooched one set of bearings, and I had to return the tool, and exchange it for the other one ($5 more, but they waived that). Since i'm a canuckian, I had to pay full shipping for the tool to get to me (twice) along with the return freight of the original tool, and a second set of bearings.

So, I GOT THE SHAFT on that one. For most people however, the tool SHOULD work fine the first time, and if not YOU get to ship it back to them free, and not pay duty (twice), or shipping at all. Anyway....

 

Unless something went wrong with the cam bearings themselves, I don't know why anyone would be changing them anyway. If the block is professionally cleaned they always remove them, but when they are done cleaning it I have always had the shop install the new ones - along with freeze plugs. If the bearings are still in it and don't look visually marred up I wouldn't bother with them. I have assembled a few and have always done it without need or want for a cam bearing tool.