Hi..

got some problems with my ride.. when I start it up, sometimes it comes blueish smoke. not much but there is some bluesmoke.. its smells strong, like something is burnt.. The longer the car runs the worse it gets, shakes, chuggs, "jumps" forward on drive, wander in rpm when releasing the throttle in 60mph / starts to shake and jumps back up again... When I stand still with D in the tranny and holds the brake the car wander down to 500rpm and shakes alot.. almost dies... and If I got AC on. its worse... It also backfires and so... Tried to change the chip nothing changed.. the cars the same... the longer I drive the worse it gets... in TTS is is like 100 too 118 S/LTERM... in the beginning there is like 124 to 130 S/LTERM after 30 minutes of driving its down to... 118 and keeps going down (more RICH).. tried to change chip the same, runs RICH anyway...

The things I changed is.

ECM (the old one gave up)
Sparkplugs + wires (AC Delco stock sparkplugs and wires)
Distrubutor cap and rotor.
TPS
IAC
Oilpressure unit (the one on the oilfilter, that have F/P controll)
MSD Blaster coil
New Accel 23 lbs/hr injectors. (old ones gave up)
New O2 sensor
Fuel filter is new to.

The car is pretty much stock as you all now Smile I changed the injector constant i the chip so its not that, the car runned bad before I changed the injectors to..

I also made an compressiontest tonight, and checked the ohm in injectors. all info and pictures of the sparkplugs can you find here : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/rep/komptest/

Please take alook and say what you think is wrong...

 

'king
Get a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure. It is not uncommon for TPI pumps to get 'tired' (i.e from old age) and slowly drop pressure. A stock TPI car should have steady 40-45 PSI (you'll have to convert into KPA) fuel pressure. As fuel pressure drops the ECM will try to compensate by forcing injectors to stay open longer (richer). It can only do this until it reaches a limit. At lower FP injectors do not deliver good fuel automatization which can result in fuel puddling and poor mixture.

Check Fuel pressure both cold and once engine is at operating temperature. It should be nearly identical.

BTW - every time I visit Stockholm I am amazed at number of hot cars roaming the streets around Gamla-stan and queen street by the main train station.

//RF

 

Does it matter that my stock injectors are 19lbs/hr and the new ones is 24lbs/hr ?! I changed the injector constant in the PROM to 24 on one chip and 23.5 on another one, no change.... is it too big injectors even thou I changed the inj. constant ?

 

'king

Take one step at time. Need a bit more information about your car. Is it MAF or SD? If you have changed injector constant in EPROM you should be OK. You did not say what engine you have in your Camaro - 5.0 or 5.7L? Ideally, you may want to provide datalog which should provide a better insight into what your engine combo is doing.

//RF

 

1989
305 TPI
stock intake , stock plenum, stock runners. stock throttlebody..
stock IROC-Z with some small small changes, like airfoil, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 24lbs/hr injectors, New ECM and custom chip..New IAC and TPS...

Got some logs from TTS Datamaster:

here you got the latest logs, where the cars runned like **** after about 30 to 40 minutes... I tried 2 different chip/proms, with changed injector and maf... no change in the car.... strange.... because some changes had to be but the car didnt react on the new chip/prom....

PASSWORD : irocztts the password is for every file..

LOGG 1 and 2 is with APYM stock prom with 23.5 lbs inj. constant.
LOGG 3 is with ANYH prom and 24 lbs inj. constant...The car shaked alot and runned like ****... backfired and so...

logg 1 : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z2...s/5okt07-a.rar

logg 2 : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z2...s/5okt07-b.rar

logg 3 : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z2...7danchip-a.rar



some older logs, The only thing that Ive done since theese logs where mad was to change the IAC to a new AC Delco nothing else, the same prom APYM and everything... :
http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z2...9aug2007-a.rar
http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z2...9aug2007-a.rar

 

The King

I do not have TTS data master - can you export data files into ASCII format, and RAR please??

//RF

 

How do I do that ? TTS Datamaster is free to use when you playback data .. You dont want to install it and check !?

please help

 

Got it ---- I am looking at it...

//RF

 

I took a close look at all available logs. Fuel trim does not appear to be too bad in 5okt07-a or 5ok07-b.
Most BLMs were around 124 to 128 range. Yes it is on a rich side but GM EFI works best when running slightly rich. At idle I saw couple of jumps in IAC before idle would drop suddenly drop 750 to about 500 before being recovered. It looks like you may have a vacuum leak some where. MAF setup and vacuum leaks do not mix at all. Check all vacuum connections, hoses and gaskets.

Also I see a lot of DRPs which may cause timing jitter when DRP drops out. After market ignition modules (non GM ) are know to cause this - some more than others. GM ignition modules use zero crossing detection scheme to determine when to generate reference signal pulse.

Sorry, but nothing was standing out. If you can datalog a cold start up to fully warm-up idle. No driving required, in park only - about 8 to 10 minutes worth. All by itself.

//RF

 

I know thats the strange thing, but in the logs the S/LTERM goes down to 100 and 118 thats not the greatest thing.. it smelled unburned fuel and it backfires... I have stock ignition GM module, I will change it to a new GM ignition module (the one that sits inside the dist.).. Why is it pulling back the sparkadv. so hard on acceleration ?! it dosent do that when Im at idle or when its cold...

The thing is that it looses the connection all the time, sometimes I can log for 30 min and sometimes only 2 min and then LOST PCM CONNECTION.... have to shutdown the car and restart the program, and start over again...

you have more logs at : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/tts.htm
Its the same password on all the files.. the password is written on the right side of the page..

Ive printed some rows on each log with som info how the car runned and felt...

do you mean DRP Active ?!? because Ive always have the same on that... in all my logs.. even with all stock car.. any ideas ?!

I will by a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum.. wheres the best place to check the vacuum ?! shall I have AC on or OFF or dosent that matter ?!
sometimes when I havent used the AC for a while and starts it maybe in ECONOMY or MIN/LOW it making a hissing!? sound from the AC control, and if I go to off and then AC MAX it dosent sound anything.. could it be a vacuum leak in the AC control that goes to the motor!? or are they separate if there are any vacuum in the AC controls.!?

 

'king

Strim (also known as integer) term is an immediate fuel correction - it changes very fast and is nearly instantaneous. It is normal for it swing from one extreme to another -that's how FI works in response to engine loads. As integer reaches upper or lower limits then ltrim (BLM) gets updated. I would not worry about integer swings as much. A vacuum leak will cause ECM to miss-adjust fueling which may cause over rich conditions that you are describing. Please ignore my comment about the DRP - I looked at my logs very similar.

Ignition timing - ECM detects knock from KS. If there is successive knock ECM will retard timing. When accelerating engine experiences high load conditions - build up of heat during ignition which will cause knocking - pinging. This maybe due to gas (petrol) composition available

AC system uses vacuum actuators - make sure that nothing is leaking or disconnected. Do you have a factory manual??? Look for hard plastic vacuum lines in the back of the engine and along the firewall.

//RF

 

But if its a vacuum leak at the AC control inside the car ? shouldnt it make noice all the time then ?! it only makes that sound when in ECONOMY ... or VENT...
I havent found any broken cables checked with startergas around the engine, maybe a vacuum gauge will find a small leak ? even in the AC compontents / controls ?! or....
Maybe I broke something when I installed my new Stereo headunit ? or is that not possible ? to break something behind that ? around the AC controls..?!

really dont know

 

king.

Finding vacuum leaks can be a very frustrating exercise. Locate a main manifold vacuum tap - typically it is in the back of the engine and should have several hoses running to it. Disconnect, and plug tap with a temporary plugs. If you see immediate idle improvement you found suspect line which should chased until you find a break. TPI systems are also know to leak around flanges. Another area of trouble can be a leaky EGR valve. A leaky EGR valve will screw up idle.

You did not mention how many miles / km you have nor the year - model of your car.

//RF

 

Camaro 1989
Milage : 44000KM (27340miles) very rare..

the EGR makes an ticking noice on idle and when i push the throttle the ticking sound dissapeares.. and NO its not the valve ticking , they are right, I suspect the EGR in the middle of the intake (under the plenum)
But idle is pretty good, its when I have a gear in like D and hold the BRAKE it jumps up and down in the idle if a put the tranny in P och N it runs at 750rpm and shakes , like it missing on some cylinder... not shure about that but it shakes... but steady on 750rpm....

So a vacuum gauge wont help me with this problem or ? if I try with a vacuum gauge and the vacuum is good, can I be sure the vacuum is fine in the hole engine ?!....
If I spray startgas around the engine an the engine dosent react on that, then I dont have any vacuum leak !?....
Its hard to know what to do... I tryed alot of things... Tomorrow I get the Fuelpressure gauge I will check the pressure and idle, around 3000rpm to and see if its steady, I will also try how long it holds the pressure after shutting down the engine...

there is one hoose going from the driver side of the throttlehouse and down to the firewall!?!? a small "pipe" that splits in 2 and the other one goes to EGR valve (silver thing in the middle of the intake under the plenum) have 3 pictures of that...

Where it sits in the throttlehouse..


Where it goes on the passenger side, (on the right side on the picture you see the fuelrail and the F/P regulator...stock one..) Where does this go after that connection??


This also braked right where the connection where, I fixed it and its tight.. sprayed startinggas around it after fixing it again


And here you see where do dubble cable goes, throttle and the silver thing



I had this problem with the car even before I started to change everything... I tried alot of things but the car still dont runs right like it should... its hard to know what to do.... Had the problem before I changed, ECM, sparkplugs, rotor , dist cap ,sparkwires, IAC , TPS, Chip, o2 sensor, oilpressure sender unit (the one above oilfilter with F/P control) ,Fuelfilter, MSD Blaster, The next thing I will change now is the Ignition module, the black thing in the dist. Got a new GM on the shelf in the garage.. will try with that one... to....

Could it be a leak behind the stereo unit, above it behind the AC controls ? could that be my problem ?! I installed a new stereo in april 2006 and after that all my problems started... is there any cables (vacuum ones) behind the controlpanel that is sensitive ?! that I could have braked,... havent looked behind the stereo since then... just thought about that... could it be ??

 

‘king
In order to troubleshoot EFI systems certain basics must be first verified before additional troubleshooting steps can be taken further. Let me make couple of statements and you can confirm and add additional information where appropriate.

1) When you start engine cold – it fires up and idles high first at about 1100 RPM and as it warms ups settles down to 750 RPM? (Yes/No – Data logs show it does)
2) Engine does not miss (runs nice and smooth) during initial start-up – warm up while in Park? (Yes/No). Hook up vacuum gauge, record vacuum level.
3) Perform the following experiment: Engine idling, transmission in Park, apply brakes. Is engine idling smooth or does it get rough??? (Yes/No) Record vacuum levels. This test eliminates leaky (vacuum) power brake booster.
4)HVAC system in your Camaro uses engine vacuum to activate control (to re-direct air flow) doors. It is possible that during recent stereo installation HVAC vacuum lines were damaged or disconnected creating a vacuum leak inside passenger compartment. You can temporarily disable HVAC vacuum control lines by disconnecting them inside engine compartment and plugging off vacuum at the intake plenum tap. If idle improves – guess what – you found the problem!
5) To verify that HVAC vacuum plumbing is intact connect a hand vacuum pump (Mityvac www.mityvac.com or equivalent) to each disconnected vacuum hard line. Apply vacuum to each tube – should hold vacuum or otherwise you have a leak inside passenger compartment in the HVAC system.
6) EGR should not be active during idle. (Data logs show so). Application of vacuum to EGR valve is controlled by EVS (electronic vacuum switch) which receives electric control signal from ECM. Since EGR is tough to get to disconnect vacuum tube from EVS and verify that no vacuum is applied to EGR during idle (use vacuum gauge). (Yes/No) A further functional check can be performed on EGR valve – use a hand vacuum pump and apply 10 in-Hg of vacuum to EGR valve. Engine idle should get very rough, almost stall.
7) Fuel pressure regulator – verify that fuel pressure regulator holds vacuum – connect use a hand vacuum pump. Vacuum should be steady.

 

Hi there, I get my fuelpressure gauge today and my vacuum gauge tomorrow so I will check the things out. before I do that I must say that my engine goes up to 1350 almost 1400rpm when fired up when its cold... starts at1100 and rises to almost 1400 no foot on the gaspedal... its always high at the first startup when its cold 1400is very high for startup idle i think, 1100 It used to be.... not anymore...

I will answer the other questions when I checked them, just wanted to say the thing about the cold idle... I will get back here when Im checked the Fuel Pres.. and the vacuum...

thanks alot man!

 

Where and how do I input this vacuum gauge ?

Do I need to buy some adaptors and "T" connections ? or something...
I really havent done this anytime... so I need to ask, i checked the Haynes and Chilton manual but there is not much info there...

Got some pictures here that I have to ask about.. If its all right..

1.) This is the right connection right ? These two wires shall sit like this ?


This to right... Shouldnt have put it back wrong, but I had to ask...
All the hooses behind the TPS and so is right.. right


If its a leak here, could I get problems with gear in and idle... like load problems..!?


And where does this go ? into the firewall ?!


Maybe I shall rewrite the topic ?! because its stays at 750rpm when in N or P and when I got an gear in like, 1,2 or D or [D] and holds the brake, it goes waaay down... and shakes , and kinda makes backfire noice.. and If I start the AC it almost dies.. that low it is... If I rew it up to 3000rpm it backfires... only when the engine is warn, not when its cold...

So there are my questions for tonight

 

'king

Basic background information...

Photo engine1
Connect your vacuum gage to the vacuum tap in the first picture circled in red. One of the two vacuum lines is used to supply vacuum to fuel pressure regulator (the short one). The other vacuum line is used by HVAC system and AIR diverter valve. HVAC can be temporarily disconnected from intake plenum and vacuum tap should caped with rubber plug. A healthy stock 305 should have 16 to 20 in-Hg at idle.

Photo engine2 is a front with diverter valve clearly visible (3/4" rubber hoses). Trace where that 3/8" hose is going to - charcoal canister purge (CCP)

Photo engine3 with your finger point to a EGR solenoid. This solenoid controlled by ECM when and how EGR valve operates. One of the two vacuum lines is connected to full manifold vacuum the other side should be connected to EGR. Verify both connections

Testing - looking for a vacuum leak.
Test 1. Disconnect HVAC vacuum line from tap. Install a short length of 1/4" or 6.25mm vacuum line with a vacuum 'T'. Connect HVAC vacuum line and vacuum gauge to 'T'. Start engine allow to warm up record vacuum level. Change AC - Economy Heater controls - did vacuum level changed?? Did RPM changed?

Test 2. Connect vacuum gauge directly to plenum port (HVAC vacuum line should be plugged). Start engine allow to warm up record vacuum level. Is there difference in vacuum levels?

Test 3. Use rubber plug and cap HVAC plenum tap. Install a vacuum 'T" and vacuum gauge onto fuel pressure regulator vacuum tap. Connect FPR vacuum line to the 'T'. Start engine, allow to warm up record vacuum level.

Did you see any difference in idle quality or engine RPM?

Test 4. With a hand held vacuum pump - Mityvac www.mityvac.com or equivalent apply about 10 in-Hg to the FPR vacuum line. Vacuum should be steady.

Test 5. With a hand held vacuum pump - Mityvac www.mityvac.com or equivalent apply about 10 in-Hg to the HVAC vacuum line. Vacuum should be steady.



OK - let me know what you get so far - I'll check in the morning - I am only 9 hours behind you.

//RF

 

The picture you edited is not the HVAC, its the hoose that is connected to the fuelpressure regulator... a short one, from the F/P regulator.. and goes into the plenum.. the rubber hoose behind it, closer to firewall is it HVAC then ? or... it goes to the right side of the car and also to the left side och the firewall...

and on the front, its a hard plasticcable going from the CCS canister to the connection on the throttle body.. under the bigger hoose..

do you have msn ? or simething ? maybe we could talk there to ?
if you have, please add me theking_v8@hotmail.com ..

 

'king

Unfortunately my company IT blocks all massaging protocols. It is kinda sucks - but top management worries about trade secrets being stolen. I have no access to web based e-mail. At home I have everything

Starting going through the test list. I think that you will find your leak. Also, if you are going to work on your car get a factory manual. There are after market manuals (Haynes, Chilton, other) but they are not as detailed as factory ones. I buy them of Evil bay (E-Bay) They are not cheap and some sellers will not ship outside NA

The other option is to get on line manual from alldata.com diy section. It is subscription service but manuals are just as good as factory.

//RF

 

but maybe we could talk when you get home ?
its so much easier to talk live... its faster and its easier to get answers and ask questions.. If you have msn at home, please add me

have a nice day, Now its time to start making dinner. check inte later, im free tomorrow so I will install my sparkplugs, starther up check the fuel pressure and log the hole thing with TTS also... and I will check behind the stereo unit to, and see if it looks good there, I will se if I have the time to do a vacuum test..

 

Now I checked my fuelpressure , the values and some more info you will find here : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/rep/komptest/
I also checked the sparkplugs wires, resistence. all the info in the komptest page please have a look.

I also removed the stereo head unit, but behind the stereo there is no vacuum hooses ?! I have taken som photographs behind there and in the engine compartment.. the pictures is the following..

Pic one, here does sime cables go in.. but where does they come out, the hard plastic one (vacuum ?!)


The first picture are where theese cable go in, the one that is on the ower side of the picture, the hardplastic one.


This also goes in to the same place as pic 1 shows..


I followed the cable bunch on pic one to this place, but the hardplastic vacuum hooeses are not there ? where does the go ?


And pic 2 shows, a T joint that goes toward us on the picture and a second cable that goes to the driver side, that cable/hoose goes into the red section


sime pictures behind the stereo unit


more


moremore, but how is it possible to make and eaking sound when air is escaping if I cant find any hardplastic vacuum lines ?!

 

'King

Part 1

1) Fuel pressure is good (44 psi) - check that of your list. (Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator appear to be ok)

2) Spark plugs. Can you re-take photos so that the center electrode insulator is fully visible?? Typically you look for light brown deposits on the center insulator. If insulator is black and oily that's no good. Take a look at this web page and see for yourself:

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html
and here
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

according to your photos your AC-Delco plugs were made in France. I have never seen French made AC-Delco plugs in US. (Bad joke on my part), but from what I can see:

Cylinder 1: Slightly rich
Cylinder 2: OK, tough to say
Cylinder 3: OK, tough to say
Cylinder 4: OK, tough to say
Cylinder 5: Tough to determine, can not see electrode.
Cylinder 6: Looks like brand new, very few deposits.
Cylinder 7: Tough to determine, can not see electrode.
Cylinder 8: Looks like brand new, very few deposits -lean?

What is the AC-Delco part number for your plugs??? Oil on threads is due to external leakage getting into the spark plug hole.

3) Spark plug wires
Spark plug wire resistance - I'll cross check against my set here in SoCal.

4)
I got MSN messenger installed at home.... I'll try over weekend. Your Saturday morning.

//RF

 

Got some HIGH-RES pictures if you want to download them and zoom in
Just put them back on today. and there is not oil coming from the outside of the engine and in to the threads, it pushing from inside the engine and out thru the threads and on to the sparkplugs... seems like they dont tightup... there is a difference on the Delco that was on and this new ones....
The HIGH-RES pics you will find here : http://www.framnasbaren.se/gfx/sparkplugs.rar (DONE uploading) and please tell me as soon as you downloaded it.. then I remove it from the page..

So with my stock fuel regulator its good ? to have 44 PSI all the time ? shouldnt it be lower at idle or so ??....
----------
Maybe I shall buy new sparkplugs, some ones that dosent are made in france... I want it to say made in USA then I know its good stuff

Its seems like the sparkplugs are leaking some times, like they unsrews themself... its strange... and why its backfiring after about 20 minutes off driving... maybe its the dist. thats broken, I shall test it someday.. I will make an PROM/CHIP with Spark Adv. Table 24 degress from 0rpm to 1400rpm and all loads. and then 34 degress above 1400rpm to the max and then see with a strobelight / ignition lamp and see if its stand steady on 24 degress.. if it does, it works... if it not stable or jumping up or down. the dist is broken ?! or ?...??

 

1) Testing fuel pressure on TPI.

According to one manual (in all other respects very useless) you should see between 40 to 48 PSI when you turn ign key into run position, without starting it. You should hear the fuel pump come on for a about two seconds and then shut off. When you start the car, it's supposed to drop 3-10 lbs from initial reading. Going through my old notes on couple of TPI equipped cars that I looked at static fuel pressure started at about 45 and dropped to 39. I always test fuel pressure regulator with my MityVac - no vacuum results in maximum pressure at about 45 and with vacuum applied fuel pressure dropped down to 39 lbs. Your Fuel Pressure numbers appear to be reasonable.
2) You can remove Spark plugs RAR file - you did not follow instructions! I'll take an example photo and e-mail to you.

3) Hold-off on making changes to your timing advance for now.

//RF

 

I didnt take any new photos, that was the old ones with larger scale..
because I have put them on the car, cleaned them up and the camaro is in my garage, 1km from here, and I have to have help to drive it up on a carramp because I have to take out the sparkplugs from underside... its not possible to loosen and remove the sparkplugs from above... thats the problem. I thought it might help with bigger ones that you could zoom in on.. sorry for that..
I know how you wanted the picture, but I havent them loose right now...
The fuel pressure did not drop when I started the car, it stayed on 44 PSI all the time, no mather what load / speed / gear... even when I shutted the car of it stayed on 44 PSI, not until I removed the little vacuum hoose between the plenum and F/P reg.. then it dropped right under 42 PSI...

When i turned the key it went up to maybe 43PSI...

I shall not test the 24 and 34 SA tables at the moment then ?!
I´ll wait with that then...

 

Today I tryed the vacuum gauge... info about that you will find herer : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/rep/komptest/ at the bottom... I had 0 vacuum on idle.. tred for about 5 min and after that I unplugged it and fixed it back to normal.. went out for driving and logged for about 26 minutes... The logg will you find at the page to... 13 Okt is the name of it...

But why wasent there any vacuum between the plenum and the fuelpressure regulator..!?! there should be vacuum at idle there... but the gauge did not show anything, I tried to suck in it and it showed some vacuum when I did that, I also blowed into the hoose and it worked to, so the gauge is working. but WHY am im not getting any vacuum there ??!?!

the logfile is with a new bin. with edited Powerenrich tables, I removed 6% on the vs. temp and I also removed the PE vs.rpm spark to 0... so it wont retard . My other chip had 0 there to... so it dosent knock as much now.. but there is still a long way to go before it runs exactly as i should....

I will go back to the garage tonight and try the check the vacuum again.. is it a good place to check the vacuum or !?

 

Good morning from rainy So Cal

1) About vacuum gage reading. - Connect it directly to intake manifold plenum. Remove T adaptor - just go directly to the source! When checking for vacuum very RPM's from idle to about 1500 RPM

2) Aghh - I have forgotten how bad third gen plug replacement can be. I owned '87 long time ago (it was stolen, never recovered). From your spark plug photos it is tough to say what is going on. You can always look at it again later.

//RF

 

Done some vacuum test now all the info you will find here : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/rep/komptest/

maybe you can join MSN so we could talk ? because the FPR plug on the plenum is casted shut... seems like its stock casting... I connected the T joint in the HVAC line and started , good and strong vacuum , even with AC on max tried all the ac controlls. steady vacuum.. all the info about this on : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/rep/komptest/

please join MSN and help me out dude

 

'king

Post in TPI forum about your vacuum port find...

//RF

 

that 2 in of vaccum loss is minor... looking at the data logs... it shows lots of knock counts... one a run for idle to 6K it shows 117... what are you running for initial timing?

 

6 degrees as base timing, and stock Spark Advance in the prom/chip..
its strange its knocking and pulling back the spark adv. when I give throttle..
Its knocks and knock retard in every log. no matter what.. its so strange..
Can leaky valve sealings make it knock ?!

Wich log aare you looking at and where in the log..

and the fuelpressure regulator and the injectors CLICKS very loud. I can hear it clearly in the car. I can also feel it the fuelpressure gauge.... is this normal that it clicks that much... got a audio file of that on the page linked to above...
If you listen carefully you will hear the clicking sound from the fuelpressure reguator and the injectors...

http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/rep/komptest/

 

do you have any time to join msn if you have it ? add me on theking_v8@hotmail.com im sitting there right now...

 

Update on : http://www.alandsbrodata.ymex.net/z28/rep/komptest/
on the right side there are 3 files, 2 movies and one audiofile..
compression buildup, vacuum gauge video and the ticking sound ...
the ticking what can it be ? injectors ? FPR ??....


Anyone knows why this is ? : https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ug-casted.html

 

Hi..

To se if the plugged vacuum connection causing the problem, just plug in the regulator with a T- connection in on the other port to see if it helps.

Yes, injectors have a clicking sound. Ex. FMS injectors (#24) use to have a loud clicking sound you can hear it with the hood shut......

Take a screwdriver and listen where the sound comes from.

 

The sound is coming from the regulator and the injectors. I can feel the clicks in the car body ..and its very noicy inside the car... the clicking is almost louder then the engine sound.. as you may hear on the audio file..

thats strange...

 

Did you try to hook up the regulator to vacuum and test?

Is the sound a new thing? from yesterday?

Could be a fuel line that is laying against the body.
Hard to hear from the file.................

 

I havent tried to hook it up to the HVAC plug yet, had to check around before I did it, dont want anything to brake...

The ticking / clicking sound was not there before I changed the injectors, so the clicking/ticking sound has started after injector change, but it has getting louder ... I cant remember that it was this loud when i changed it... so something has happened because its being louder now .. And with the stock injectors there was NO click/tick at all..

 

Theking

Go to TPI forum - make a specific question about vacuum tap used for FPR.
I do not have TPI car now so I have nothing to compare with. In my opinion there should be vacuum at that port - it is possible that somehow you have defective plenum (blocked vacuum port by aluminum debris?) - I just simply do not know. Let me know what you'll find

//RF

 

It is a Manufacture error .. I have to drill an little hole there and try again...
The strange thing is that is ran good for about 4 years... but I will drill it out, its CASTED SHUT, no debris or so... casted... I will drill, drice and logg and get back here later Already postet in TPI section and got alot of answers on it

thanks