ok here is the deal i got a 85 z with a 68 vette 327 in it. its bored 30 over camel hump heads nice size cam 600 eld carb eld high rise intake headers into a turbo 350 3 speed 2500 stall b&m ratchet shift just put a 9 bolt 327 posi in back and the thing still seems slow. it bogs like crazy if i mat the gas than takes off....ive been working on this for years here and there cause money is tight. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.. thanks btw 1/4 mile time is 15.8 yea sucks

 

if it bogs then check the tunning on the carb. Do you have to oem gears in the 9 bolt? b/c that will be really high.

 

Lots of money don't make a car fast, correct parts do.

Can't really help you because you never really asked a question.

 

well i have the stock gears in the rear and the question im asking is any thoughts why im running slow? i mean i got good parts alot of people are telling me the gearrs need to go to 4.10 cause the 68 350 trans

 

Get rid of that POS edelbrock would be a good idea.

 

16 lobes I hope?

Beyond that, what IS it, actually? What intake is it? Not a "Torker 2", I hope?

Those highway gears are killing you. 4.10 might be a bit much; but as an example, all the 60s and 70s muscle cars (and even the late 70s Z28s, which weren't exactly "muscle cars", they just had stickers to make them look like it) had 3.73s. That's a pretty good all-around gear for a street-driven car.

Cams are cheeeeeep. If you suspect that whatever you have in there isn't right (like, if no matter what you do, the bottom end is REAL soggy) then just change it out for whatever the RIGHT thing would be, for the combo you have. Keep in mid, that if that engine has been rebuilt, and the pistons are flat-tops (BY FAR the most common thing, although of course I can't see yours to know for sure) and it got typical "rebuilder" type pistons like TRW or SpeedPro or something, your compression is well below 9:1. Might be worth investigating EXACTLY what parts it's built out of. "from a Vette" is pretty useless as far as specifying anything; once it's been opened up, there's no difference between a Vette block or crank or any of that, and the ones out of any other car.

 

thanks for the help im going to do some research and digging to see what excactly i have

 

4.11 gears are good but only if you want to drag. if you want street strip then 3.73 and if you ever want to see a highway then 3.42. try that first. those stock gears are meant for highway mpg. also good if you want to go 145+

 

When I make modifications to a vehicle to improve performance, I allow about $50 per horsepower. So a 40 horespower increase will cost me $2000. It doesn't always work out that way, there are a lot of "free" mods that really do make power. Once those are done get out your wallet. If it's from the ground up (ie no motor to start with) it'll cost even more. It really is an expensive hobby. Now, as has been stated, what matters most is where the money is spent. Paying more doesn't guarantee you will get more, but paying less usually means you get less.

 

i would get rid of that edelbog carb and get a holley.and matching parts always work great together

 

well im hearing alot of bad things about the eld carbs im looking into a 700 demon double pumper anyones thoughts?

 

that is an idea... but what cam are you running? swapping carbs might help but if your cam is to big a carb isnt going to help

 

Only this....

Unbolting and re-bolting the big, expensive, SHINY parts up on top that are easy to get to and that everybody sees, only makes your car faster by PURE ACCIDENT; or, by weight loss, with all reductions centered on the driver's wallet.

The RIGHT WAY to go faster, for the LEAST MONEY, is to find the ONE THING that's its MOST limiting factor; and attack it. Then once that one is appropriately improved, find THE NEXT THING that is NOW its MOST LIMITING factor. And so on, until satisfied.

At NO TIME is it ever worthwhile to chase after the latest buzzword; or just spend money on things that everybody else loves to hate, even if they have good reason for it; or, as mentioned above, various stages of bling.

I'd say right now, the motor is probably not what's making it slow, and even more so, the carb; that is, you can probably easily spend $1000 on it and not pick up as much speed as you can get for $300 spent somewhere else.

What gears are in your car? What cam is in it? What's been done to the heads? What converter is in it? Got traction? There's lots of non-sexy things you can do, for A WHOLE LOT LESS $$$$$, that will almost certainly have a FAR greater impact on the smile factor than a $500 carburetor.

 

thats what i meant to say...

 

So you've got mediocre heads, mediocre carb, who knows what cam, below average cubic inches, who knows what exhaust, and highway gears....

There's no shortage of areas to improve here. Stroking it out to a 383 wouldn't be a bad idea if it was still on a stand, but I guess the time for that has passed...

 

Make sure that your torque converter stall speed and intake/cam combo are all in the same rpm range. I had this problem in my nova.

 

man ive never heard so much wineing boo hoo my car is slow wait did u run 15.8s i ran that when i first got my car stock 305 700r4 273 open rear man that motor u got has a stock bottom end with a monster carb a 670 will feed 300 to 400hp my brother says the same thing hes got a 88 chevy pickup with a 280 dur cam (big block) stock penut port heads stock bottom half a cheesy dual plane intake from eld and it runs smell like **** rich not on top of it power put a smaller carb on it time it see what u got

 

i have a 86 iroc with a 68 vette 327 .60 over solid lift cam dart heads. a torqer 2 intake. i had a edl 750 on it and it never ran right so i got a 650 mighty demon and it is crazy how much better it runs. huge differance

 

Pay attention to what sofakindom said and ignore everyone telling you spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on things before you have done any fine tuning. There is nothing wrong with the Edelbrock carb or the 3.27 gears. (my Malibu wagon ran 13.80's with an Edelbrock 600 and 2.56 gears)

There are some questions that you need to answer, or find the answers to, in order to know if any of your existing parts need to be changed.
What exactly are the cam specs?
What is the true compression ratio? (which pistons and cylinder heads)
What exactly is the intake manifold you have?
What was the trap speed when you ran 15.8? If the car ran 15.8 @ 90mph you're not making much power. If the car ran 15.8 @ 100mph you making good power but the car just isn't running well in the first 60'. Both are fixable.

Start with basics. Sometimes you have a combination thats not really right but with careful tuning you can get the most out if it. Look at how fast NHRA stockers and super stockers go with bad heads, small cubic inches, and cams that are too big in heavy cars. Do a cranking compression test-see what you have. Go get a MrGasket timing tape so you can tell exactly what your timing is doing. Don't put it on the balancer-they always fly off. Use it to mark your balancer in 5 degree increments from TDC to 40 degrees advance. Get the ignition timing in the ballpark first. If it's wrong nothing you do make the car run right, and if you do it last you will have to re-do everything you did before. Disconnect the vacuum advance. Put your timing light on the motor and raise the RPM of the engine until the timing mark stops advancing.(it will probably take a LOT of rpm) Make a note of how many degrees you ended up with and at what rpm it was "all in". That is your total mechanical advance. Set the timing so that you have about 35 degrees total, and then check the timing at idle. The difference between the two is how much the advance weights in the distributor are increasing the timing as the rpm goes up.(you will probably need reduce this so you can run more initial timing but that can wait for now) 35 degrees total is pretty conservative-it will probably want 37-38 like most old style carb small blocks do, but that will be close enough to start. Now go drive the car and see if it's any better(or worse). Listen carefully for any detonation(pinging). The bog problem you described is a result of not enough timing most of the time. Next make sure your carb is EXACTLY like it was when it was brand new in the box-same jets,metering rods, springs, and settings. The difference between the out of the box settings and the final perfect tune is less than a 10% change 90% of the time. If anything has been changed then it's probably wrong.

Find the answers to those questions and try those basic tuning steps and let us know what happens so we can move on to the more advanced steps.

 

ok first off thanks for everyone who replied i understand not to go spend a big dollar for no reason reason i say carb is cause the bog does seem to be the carb but i could be wrong my brother has a 350 stock and put a elda on it and boom same bog, the cam was put in by who i got the car off of so dont know there i know its been bored the intake is a elebrock highrise ill have to look for the excact numbers i just took the y pipe off cause it was stock and banged up so im looking for one of them...basically im cleaning up a mess someone once riged together
guess
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ok first off thanks for everyone who replied i understand not to go spend a big dollar for no reason reason i say carb is cause the bog does seem to be the carb but i could be wrong my brother has a 350 stock and put a elda on it and boom same bog, the cam was put in by who i got the car off of so dont know there i know its been bored the intake is a elebrock highrise ill have to look for the excact numbers i just took the y pipe off cause it was stock and banged up so im looking for one of them...basically im cleaning up a mess someone once riged together
guess should just basically keep fixn the small stuff and see what i can come up with btw my goal is just mid to high 13's

 

Sounds like maybe, you've got some broken stuff on there, that it doesn't even matter what the engine COULD do, it CAN'T yet...

Namely, the exhaust.

Fix that first. That's really the foundation for everything else. NOTHING about the engine will ever work right, if that doesn't. These cars were often SEVERELY handicaped in that area from the factory, and people sometimes spend the car's ENTIRE lifetime modding ALL AROUND it, thinking that somehow something else is going to "compensate" for the engine trying to expel its waste through a drinking straw. Trust me, it won't.

As I've often recommended, consider changing out EVERY SINGLE PIECE, starting at the heads, and working your way toward the back bumper. Good quality chassis-specific headers, select the ones for a 88 or newer 350 TPI, and get them ceramic coated; the cat that goes with it; and the cat-back of your choice. DON'T dink around with "true duals", "custom" stuff, a "hookup" at the muffler shop, etc. etc. etc. Just going directly to the easy and sensible, which is, buying quality (known to fit, known to work, known to last) stuff out of the box and sticking it on yourself, will cost less, work better, make more power, and cause less trouble in the long run, than any of the rest of that.

The timing recommendation is a good one to look at. It's free. What's not to like?

Look at your gears. Physically, with your eyeball. Don't dink around with codes, "what did a 86 V6 auto blue with gray interior sold in Nebraska come with", speedo/tach "tricks", turning-the-drive-shaft "tricks", or any of that. It's all inconclusive and subject to any number of errors. Do it the RIGHT way. You just got the car, so it needs at least one shot of the scheduled maintenance that it's probably never had, especially if you plan to beat on it any. That PM includes a fluid change in the rear ANYWAY, so just do it. While you've got the cover off, observe the gears. What you see is what you've got.

I'm not a fan of those Edelbrock (Carter) carbs, either. I've found that almost anything else will make the car go faster. However, that's A LONG WAY from me telling you to yank it and spend $500 on a Demon or whatever. The problem being, there are about 10,000 OTHER THINGS (like exhaust, ignition setup, gears, compresssion, cam, and so forth) that will keep the car from running good NO MATTER WHAT carb is on top. Lots of people have lots of good-running cars with those carbs on them, that don't "bog" (whatever that might mean in this case), so it's DEFINITELY possible. Even if, if all else is PERFECT (which it probably isn't yet), some other carb might give a couple more HP or ft-lbs. They're easy to work on and calibration parts are cheeep, so work with what you've got a little bit, and get it as good as it can be before deciding it's your "limit" as described above, and yanking it.

Approach the issue with mental discipline and logic, and an orderly, systematic, methodical information-gathering program, BEFORE spending your giga$$$ and turning the big easy-to-get-to shiny bolts up on top. One of those logical things is: you can't mod a broken car, unless the mods also function as repairs; you gotta fix the broken stuff FIRST. Don't be one of those people "easily distracted by shiny things" that we all love to make fun of, that have $5,000 in their motor all covered with chrome and "pretty" parts, but still can't break into the 14s. Or worse yet, all they can do with it is walk out to their garage and polish stuff, because the car doesn't work, because they spent all their money on "pretty". You'll get farther, faster, cheaper, and more directly by thinking and reasoning, than by just *****-nilly swapping out parts.

I'd also leave the short block alone for the time being, if it works; nearly all of the things I'm suggesting will apply to a 350, 383, or 400, just the same as to a 327. If it works, work with it and around it, on things that DON'T work and STILL won't work even if you change it.

 

hey man great advice i thank ya alot i think ill just step back for the winter and save to buy some parts and get a clear head, and yea i dont care about all that chrome either , personally i dont like it cause it seems to leak but hey yea thanks again people