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Just to make sure...

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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
BCdawg57's Avatar
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From: Columbus, OH, USA
Car: '91 Z28, '13 Civic EX-L
Engine: 355 LT1, 1.8 I4
Transmission: T56, 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42(as long as no breaky)
Just to make sure...

If i remove the EGR on my lt1, as long as i program the pcm acordingly the motor should run correctly right?

Also, with the optispark. When people talk abou this unit going bad is it the entire distributor or can most of the problems be fixed with a simple cap and rotor replacement?

Jake
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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From: Columbus, OH, USA
Car: '91 Z28, '13 Civic EX-L
Engine: 355 LT1, 1.8 I4
Transmission: T56, 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42(as long as no breaky)
Re: Just to make sure...

Anyone?
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 11:54 AM
  #3  
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From: MA
Car: '87 IROC/'68 SS
Engine: 5.7L/350
Transmission: 700R4/Muncie 4-spd
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt / 3.31 12 bolt
Re: Just to make sure...

Originally Posted by BCdawg57
If i remove the EGR on my lt1, as long as i program the pcm acordingly the motor should run correctly right?

Also, with the optispark. When people talk abou this unit going bad is it the entire distributor or can most of the problems be fixed with a simple cap and rotor replacement?

Jake
The EGR lowers combustion temperatures reducing NoX and helps prevent knocking and pinging. Why do you want to remove it?
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #4  
BCdawg57's Avatar
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From: Columbus, OH, USA
Car: '91 Z28, '13 Civic EX-L
Engine: 355 LT1, 1.8 I4
Transmission: T56, 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42(as long as no breaky)
Re: Just to make sure...

Because its a clutter and i dont enjoy getting black tarry crap all over my intake components. And any bennifits it may give arent worth it to me.
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 12:42 PM
  #5  
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From: MA
Car: '87 IROC/'68 SS
Engine: 5.7L/350
Transmission: 700R4/Muncie 4-spd
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt / 3.31 12 bolt
Re: Just to make sure...

Originally Posted by BCdawg57
Because its a clutter and i dont enjoy getting black tarry crap all over my intake components. And any bennifits it may give arent worth it to me.
But it will cause detonation under load which will make your knock sensor retard the timing resulting in a loss of performance. There shouldn't be any tarry crap in your exhaust unless something else is wrong.
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #6  
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From: North Central Mass.
Car: 1985 Berlinetta
Engine: Megasquirted TPI
Transmission: Transgo 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Just to make sure...

Over time even the best tuned EGR system gums everything up.
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 12:46 PM
  #7  
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Car: 1984 z28
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Re: Just to make sure...

egr robs power, end of story. Disable it from the prom and you wont have any troubles
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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 02:40 PM
  #8  
BCdawg57's Avatar
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From: Columbus, OH, USA
Car: '91 Z28, '13 Civic EX-L
Engine: 355 LT1, 1.8 I4
Transmission: T56, 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42(as long as no breaky)
Re: Just to make sure...

From what i understand the EGR recirculates exhaust gas back into the intake, thus heating up the air and somehow cooling down combustion chamber or somthing of that nature. The pcm, for a little better fuel economy, can advance the timing of the motor a degree or so at highway speeds knowing that the egr is properly functioning, providing cooler combustion chamber, thus avoiding the pinging effect that would most likley normally occur.
If you would 0 all the egr tables in the pcm pretty much disabling it, none of the above would take place i would assume. Sure i may lose a mpg or so if i would decide to drive across country but im really not planning on swapping in an lt1 for the fuel economy.
If i am wrong on the above please correct me.

Also...about that opti...is the whole distributor usually what goes bad or can most of the problems be avoided with a cap and rotor replacement?
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