Just to make sure...
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From: Columbus, OH, USA
Car: '91 Z28, '13 Civic EX-L
Engine: 355 LT1, 1.8 I4
Transmission: T56, 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42(as long as no breaky)
Just to make sure...
If i remove the EGR on my lt1, as long as i program the pcm acordingly the motor should run correctly right?
Also, with the optispark. When people talk abou this unit going bad is it the entire distributor or can most of the problems be fixed with a simple cap and rotor replacement?
Jake
Also, with the optispark. When people talk abou this unit going bad is it the entire distributor or can most of the problems be fixed with a simple cap and rotor replacement?
Jake
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From: MA
Car: '87 IROC/'68 SS
Engine: 5.7L/350
Transmission: 700R4/Muncie 4-spd
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt / 3.31 12 bolt
Re: Just to make sure...
If i remove the EGR on my lt1, as long as i program the pcm acordingly the motor should run correctly right?
Also, with the optispark. When people talk abou this unit going bad is it the entire distributor or can most of the problems be fixed with a simple cap and rotor replacement?
Jake
Also, with the optispark. When people talk abou this unit going bad is it the entire distributor or can most of the problems be fixed with a simple cap and rotor replacement?
Jake
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 424
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From: Columbus, OH, USA
Car: '91 Z28, '13 Civic EX-L
Engine: 355 LT1, 1.8 I4
Transmission: T56, 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42(as long as no breaky)
Re: Just to make sure...
Because its a clutter and i dont enjoy getting black tarry crap all over my intake components. And any bennifits it may give arent worth it to me.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,141
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From: MA
Car: '87 IROC/'68 SS
Engine: 5.7L/350
Transmission: 700R4/Muncie 4-spd
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt / 3.31 12 bolt
Re: Just to make sure...
But it will cause detonation under load which will make your knock sensor retard the timing resulting in a loss of performance. There shouldn't be any tarry crap in your exhaust unless something else is wrong.
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Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 424
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH, USA
Car: '91 Z28, '13 Civic EX-L
Engine: 355 LT1, 1.8 I4
Transmission: T56, 5spd auto
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42(as long as no breaky)
Re: Just to make sure...
From what i understand the EGR recirculates exhaust gas back into the intake, thus heating up the air and somehow cooling down combustion chamber or somthing of that nature. The pcm, for a little better fuel economy, can advance the timing of the motor a degree or so at highway speeds knowing that the egr is properly functioning, providing cooler combustion chamber, thus avoiding the pinging effect that would most likley normally occur.
If you would 0 all the egr tables in the pcm pretty much disabling it, none of the above would take place i would assume. Sure i may lose a mpg or so if i would decide to drive across country but im really not planning on swapping in an lt1 for the fuel economy.
If i am wrong on the above please correct me.
Also...about that opti...is the whole distributor usually what goes bad or can most of the problems be avoided with a cap and rotor replacement?
If you would 0 all the egr tables in the pcm pretty much disabling it, none of the above would take place i would assume. Sure i may lose a mpg or so if i would decide to drive across country but im really not planning on swapping in an lt1 for the fuel economy.
If i am wrong on the above please correct me.
Also...about that opti...is the whole distributor usually what goes bad or can most of the problems be avoided with a cap and rotor replacement?
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