i have a 350 two bolt main engine and i'm about to swap out strokes. my problem is that i have a 3.45 stoker and the people in auto zone are telling me that the 3.45 stoker is a 305 and a three 350 is a 3.50 or 3.75?


and my next question is what kind of stoker does a 305 have???

 

Are you talking about crankshafts by chance?

Here is a list of bore and strokes for Chev:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrol...l-Block_engine

 

305 and 350 are both 3.48" stroke, but the cranks are machined differently for balance.

What do you mean by "swap out strokes"?

 

Not sure about "stoker"; but the 305 and 350 have the same stroke, which is 3.48".

The 305 bore is 3.736", and the 350 bore is 4.000".

The 305 and 350 cranks are the same casting, usually the 442; but they're balanced slightly differently, so they're not quite "the same", as-built.

 

i mean changing the crankshaft(stroker) and making it into a 383 engine. any how, would i have to change the crank rod too.... or can i just use them the same if there 5.7in rods??

 

To make a 383, you start out with a 350 block (not a 305 one); and put a crankshaft with the stroke of a 400 (3.750") in it.

Yes you can use 5.7" rods. It's kind of tough to do that with stock ones though, the bolt gets in the way.

Here's a stock 5.7" rod vs an aftermarket one designed for stroker applications. Imagine how little of that rod bolt would be left, if you tried to make the one like the other.



Nothing out of a 305 is any good for making a 383 out of. Or much of anything else, for that matter, besides what it is, once what it is becomes worn out.

 

oo wow, yea i'm better off with after market rods then. thanks

 

Probably one of your best bets would be to get a complete stroker kit with pistons, rods, crank, the whole nine yards youll save money in the end. You could stroke a 305 and end up with 335-337 and have all the torque in the world down low hehe

 

Or you could spend less money and have even more torque by stroking a 350.

 

And for about $50 more, you can have all the torque in the world AND THEN SOME, because you'll have a 383 instead of a 334.

That's why stroking a 305 is a bad idea, and why 305s are so worthless. If all we had to work with was the 305, then yeah, maybe that would be the thing to do. But we have this whole other kind of motor that's cheap, plentiful, can be had for a very low cost, cost less to build, has more cubic inches, takes very little money to buy, makes more power, low=priced, there's millions of them in junkyards everywhere, and - oh, did I mention - it's CHEAP and EASY TO FIND and GOES FASTER? Cheapest horsepower money can buy, in fact.

As cheap as a core 350 block is, there's no sense in spending thousands of dollars on a 305 one, when for literally PENNIES more - or maybe, actually EVEN LESS - you can be building a 350 block instead.

 

I never said it make more torque than a 383 but a 335 with the same stroke and smaller bore will still be a fun motor on the stree with a powerband thats flat. Yeah there are still alot of 350s laying around but they are becoming more scarce and the price is rising for blocks that dont need bored to .060 over to clean up. Cyko asked what a 305 stroked to I was just answering Im not sayin a 335 is the best idea but hey how many are you going to run into dare to be different man. I was just throwing the option out there. believe me Im all for the 383 thats why theres one in my engine bay.

 

I'd really have to disagree that 350's are becoming "scarce" It's probably the most plentiful engine in junkyards in existance.

 

I didnt mean you cant find one but a block in good shape thats std. bore is not hard to find uut you may have to do some calling around to get one I meant more scarce as compared to 10 years ago not truly scarce and if your talking a two piece rear main 4 bolt block theyre getting harder to find. That and Im blessed with living in an area with a million circle tracks within driving distance and the roundy round racers ****** up any std bore 4 bolt main they can find. Your probably right 350s are probably the most plentiful engine in junkyards but eventually finding a stb bore 350 is going to get rough the supply cant last forever and you can only bore them so much to clean them up.

 

Exactly....

And becoming EVEN MORE plentiful ATM, with all of those MILLIONS of 87-95 TBI trucks and vans that were sold, starting to die off in large numbers. Last time I was in my local buzzard there were DOZENS of those trucks sitting there. Nice roller 1-pc blocks, free of 70s QC issues, never been built or even TOUCHED in most cases, even have 4-bolt main caps just for bragging rights. Why bother with some 305? What difference does THAT make? TODAY, NOW, they're ABUNDANT.That's why you can't find em. Don't EVER call a junkyard looking for parts. Just go. They're there, you can believe that.

 

I never said dont build a 350 or 383.....Cyko asked what the 305 stroked to and a buddy of mine did one and it had gobs of torque down low not what my 383 has but it was a fun street car and he wanted to leave the original block and heads on the car but even though it wasnt a 383 it was a big step up from the 305. Again build a 383 but a 335 can be a fun time too. I didnt say I couldnt find them and the only decent yard is a distance from me and I know some people there so I call because gas is $3.20 a gallon and Im far from made of money and if Im using the gas I better be coming home with the stuff Im lookin for lol more money to spend on beer and the cars.....Your right the newer trucks and vans are starting to show up....

 

Stroke makes torque, bore makes hp. A similarly built 305 and 350 will make the same amount of torque but the 350 will make more HP. Increasing the stroke will only increase the torque. Again, all things being equal, heads, cam, compression etc.

Now a bigger engine will also be milder with the same cam as a smaller engine so the bigger engine will always have more potential to make more power easier.

A stroked 305(334) will make more torque than a 350 but not more HP. Torque is what you feel driving stoplight to stoplight so a stroked 305 will feel stronger than a stock 350.

 

my point

and stephen87 I love your car man that thing is wicked!

 

Well there is some old school thinking gone wrong for you...

Cubic inches displaced (plain & simple no matter how you acheive it) & airflow make torque. Which then multiplied by revolutions per minute make horsepower. All a bigger bore does is allow air to flow out of the valves with less restriction as it does not hit the cylinder wall as soon. The negative is the bigger bore you go the more your piston weighs & that can slow your RPM acceleration consequently.
Also take note that unless you're going from a small to big block bore these differences are going to be relatively minute.
As for longer stroke it does the obvious of increasing displacement but the reciprocating parts also must travel faster at the same RPM causing slighty more drag from friction & inertia of the parts. It also takes more effort to make compression because the crankshaft now has less leverage to push the piston back up. & a shorter stroke will carry the opposite characteristics.

Long story short, More cubes= more torque, power, output, etc... the bore versus stroke thing will show those traits somewhat still but not as much as you may think.

Oh & wow I think this thread has gone on WAY too far now...

 

wow there is a lot of info on this thread haha.

 

i have an other question for u guys. i but a new cam in my engine..... which is still a 350 that is bore out 4.030 ok. well with this new can i feel(or is it flet o well) the torq and a little bit of hp. i have a 650cfm edlebroke carb and a stock fuel pump. now the cam is .488 intake and .510 outtake, for timing its 8 degress bftc(before top center) its a summit brand. i have 76cc chamber, so i'm geussing its a 8:5 or something like that. i raced againts an 88 mustagen gt .. 5 speed(5.0L) and lost by 4 car lenght. then i raced my friend in his 89 toyota supra (turbo 9pis) which ways 400 pounds more and lost by 5 car lenght. finally i lost to my other friend who had a 93 camaro (3.4L 5 speed) by a half a of a car lenght. at the starting line i have the lead of 2 car lenght but of course it doesn't last.


can some one tell me if its the cam, carb or something else??

 

oops sorry for my miss spelling guys

 

most likely it's way too much cam for those heads.. I'd look into some new heads.. just about anything really is probably better than what you have now..

 

any cam is probably too much cam for the heads. My guess is 882s or 993s with 76(nominal)cc chambers. If the engine has speed pro pistons in it or similar, 8.5:1 may be overhoping. Is this cam one of the edelbrock(oke) ones?

 

my point exactly.

 

This one....

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SUM%2D1107

Same one Edelbrock uses in their "RPM" kit.

Total POS. Long outdated and superseded, even in the RIGHT motor. Extremely wrong choice for your motor; needs at least 10½:1 REAL compression under iron heads, or about 11¼:1 under aluminum, to work right. Yes that cam is costing you speed and power. Probably won't pull a greasy string out of a cat's hind end off the line. That's usually what that thing gives. Especially with a stock converter and anywhere near typical stock gears; 3.23 or lower. It really needs a 3200-3500 stall and 3.73 or higher. No wonder you lost to a 6-cyl in a heavier car. Losing to a Mustang is embarrassing enough; but I bet you wanted the pavement to open up and swallow you when that other happened. That's a wake-up call for sure.

Get rid of it. Get a Comp XE262, or the 2nd smallest Lunati Voodoo (60102 I think it is...) You won't believe the improvement it will give in the "butt dyno".

Get better heads too. Almost ANYTHING would be an improvement over those smoggers.

The carb isn't "great", or "the best", but it's not "the problem" either. I'd leave it alone for the time being and direct your attention elsewhere. It's several slots down on the list of things that are slowing you down right now.

 

yea my engine has aluminum pistons, but yea sofakingdom thats the cam that i bot. what was my problem ... to big of a lifters?? cause i want a cam that has a mean lobe to it and that cam does have it, but no power behind it. o yea before i forget i switch out my 700r for a 89 t-5.


what if i change the valves to a 2.02 intake and a 1.60 or 1.50 outtake??

 

Look at it this way. Lots of lope(not lobe, although it will take big 'uns) is a direct association with higher RPM potential and power. Those heads are like the anti-power of SBC heads. Any cam with lope to it, is wasted on those heads. In fact, you could practically take any lopey cam out and put in one like recommended above and see improvement in HP. Almost guaranteed. Dont waste money on bigger valves in those heads. The valve really isnt the problem, its everything around it. If you are on a budget, find some 416s or similar, port the hell out of em, and have bigger intake valves installed. Then you could get a cam with some lope to it, make real hp, and not be out tons of cash. No matter what though, to get the sound you have to take the rest, you will need gears.

 

Yeah I know what you mean... happens kind of alot.

In a low-compression motor, "mean lope" almost certainly means "no power".

Power comes from cylinder pressure. Low compression means low cylinder pressure means low power. "Mean lope" means the cam is holding the intake valve open real late, all the way during a portion of the compression stroke, thereby allowing some of the compressed gas back into the intake; and opening the intake valve so soon, that there's still exhaust gas under some pressure in the cylinder, which ALSO reverts back into the intake. Both of those things - exh gas poisoning of the intake charge (which is what creates the "lope" in the first place) and escaping compression - lower power even further. The combination you have is GUARANTEED to be pretty much gutless, as a result. Just a poor choice of combo.

Your compression is too low to begin with for making serious power, with those smogger heads. No cam will EVER make big power with those on there. Some will merely make less than others (like the one you have). In a motor like that, LESS cam will actually often make MORE power. In fact, I bet you could even put something as weenie as the "RV cam" in it (204°/214°@ .050") and it would run harder than it does now. Wouldn't lope, not even a little bit; but would run circles around that other POS.

You need heads, and a cam. Until both of those things are improved, in reasonable accord with each other, you're going to have a car that talks the talk but can't walk the walk. A longer stroke will only barely make a dent in the problem, it'll still be embarrassing. Maybe even worse, because then instead of a 350 getting beat by a 6-cyl, it'll be a 383 that just barely hangs with a 6-cyl. You would have to apply the same fixes to a 383, so you might as well do them first. With those other things taken care of, you might not feel quite so much need to put a stroker crank in it.

What kind of a budget do you have for this thing? I'm guessing since you're asking about stroking it, you have a couple of thousand dollars at your disposal, at least?

 

i only have 700 ish dollars for this motor, so what if i bot some head that are 67cc chamber or a 70cc chamber. would it run better in the hp range because i'm running it at 8:5:1 range. i only want to have the motor at 9:5:1 to 10:5:1 not in the 11's or 12"s.

So is 67cc or 70cc ok or do i have to go to 64cc??

 

what about if i get a pair Dart Iron Eagle Platinum heads part #Dart 10321111P from summitracing.com ???