car won't idle help please
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 23
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 90 IROC Z
Engine: 350 60 over
Transmission: t5 and 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
car won't idle help please
I installed Slp runners on my 89 firebird 305 tpi I also removed the cold start injector the egr valve and the air pump and the ac pump. I also removed the vacuume lines to the egr solinoid. Now the car will start If you give it a little gas and will only stay running if I keep the rpms above 1000. I also noticed that the fan is running when the engine is running and stops when the engine stalls. If anyone has any thoughts or ideas that would be a great help.
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Re: car won't idle help please
I remember reading that you can't just "remove" the EGR valve. You also have to delete it from the ECM. Otherwise, the computer still thinks It's there and is thinking It's recycling exhaust back into the cylinders when really It's sending signals to a part that's no longer there.
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Found the source. Hope this helps.
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Found the source. Hope this helps.
So what would someone gain by disabling EGR? Just about the only thing would be less parts under the hood. Basically, removing EGR gives you more space (although not much). To correctly disable EGR from your vehicle, you MUST at the very least, disable it in the prom. This is done by setting the minimum temperature to enable EGR to 151 degrees Celsius (maximum allowable temperature), and setting the minimum vehicle speed to enable EGR to 255 mph (maximum allowable speed). Since the engine will never reach either of these conditions, EGR will never be requested by the ECM. Since EGR will never be requested, it does not matter if you leave the EGR system all installed in its original place, or if you remove it from the car. If you decide to remove it, you will need an EGR block off plate to cover the hole in the intake manifold.
If you simply remove the EGR system from the car, but do not disable it in the ECM, you will run into significant problems. You will likely run into detonation, the engine will run very poorly, lack power, and will probably run on the hot side as well. In addition, you will get a code 32 before running very long. If you recall from before, the ECM alters fuel and spark advance when it thinks EGR should be on. If no EGR flow is possible because you removed it, you will have a lean condition which will be further aggravated by advanced timing.
If you simply remove the EGR system from the car, but do not disable it in the ECM, you will run into significant problems. You will likely run into detonation, the engine will run very poorly, lack power, and will probably run on the hot side as well. In addition, you will get a code 32 before running very long. If you recall from before, the ECM alters fuel and spark advance when it thinks EGR should be on. If no EGR flow is possible because you removed it, you will have a lean condition which will be further aggravated by advanced timing.
Last edited by FireDemonSiC; Apr 3, 2008 at 04:28 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 90 IROC Z
Engine: 350 60 over
Transmission: t5 and 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: car won't idle help please
but that should not have an effect on the idle the egr dose not run in idle I can fix the prom I just am trying to find out why it won't Idle
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 23
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 90 IROC Z
Engine: 350 60 over
Transmission: t5 and 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: car won't idle help please
thats what I thought but I can't find out where I just replaced all the vacuume lines. I removed the ones from the egr solinoid. and caped everything.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
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Re: car won't idle help please
LARGE vacuum leak.
Look for PCV line not hooked up, power brake line not hooked up, runners not properly hooked to the base or the gasekt damaged, bad gasket where the runners meet the plenum, no/bad/damaged O-ring on an injector(s), TB gasket, etc.
Think LARGE. Not some puny little EGR vacuum line.... LARGE.
Look for PCV line not hooked up, power brake line not hooked up, runners not properly hooked to the base or the gasekt damaged, bad gasket where the runners meet the plenum, no/bad/damaged O-ring on an injector(s), TB gasket, etc.
Think LARGE. Not some puny little EGR vacuum line.... LARGE.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 90 IROC Z
Engine: 350 60 over
Transmission: t5 and 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: car won't idle help please
One of my friends told me to spray brake cleaner around and listen for a rpm increase will that help?
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
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From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: car won't idle help please
A long shot, but make sure your CTS is plugged in still. It will act JUST like that if it's not plugged in.
Given what you were up to, Im more inclined to say vac leak, though.
Given what you were up to, Im more inclined to say vac leak, though.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,916
Likes: 2,448
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: car won't idle help please
Brake cleaner isn't the best thing in the world for that, since it produces hydrochloric acid inside the engine when it burns, but it works. Carb cleaner or propane or starting fluid is better. Just be careful of spraying it somewhere that it can catch fire.
But that's the general idea; when you put something that acts like fuel somewhere that is a vacuum leak, the fuel goes into the motor, and suddenly dramatically changes the way the engine runs. The idle will speed up or smooth out or something, or otherwise be affected. When you spray it on places that DON'T leak, nothing will happen.
Rule #1 of when you work on somethign that SHOULDN'T change something, but it does anyway, is to go back and CHECK YOUR WORK. And do it with the proper mindset: pretend you're the a$$hole boss coming back behind his most hated employee, trying to find something he did wrong so he can fire him. As opposed to, you're the employee, and you're trying to find things you did right. Be your own harshest critic when you inspect your work, not your most favorable apologist.
But that's the general idea; when you put something that acts like fuel somewhere that is a vacuum leak, the fuel goes into the motor, and suddenly dramatically changes the way the engine runs. The idle will speed up or smooth out or something, or otherwise be affected. When you spray it on places that DON'T leak, nothing will happen.
Rule #1 of when you work on somethign that SHOULDN'T change something, but it does anyway, is to go back and CHECK YOUR WORK. And do it with the proper mindset: pretend you're the a$$hole boss coming back behind his most hated employee, trying to find something he did wrong so he can fire him. As opposed to, you're the employee, and you're trying to find things you did right. Be your own harshest critic when you inspect your work, not your most favorable apologist.
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