jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

I just got my 383 from T&L Engines. This is my first engine build. Theres something on this engine that wasn't on my L98.

This is probably a stupid question..What is it? The engine is a 383/6" rods/internal balance. At least according to the invoice.

thunder85

iTrader: (1)

thats the end of your crank shaft.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Well, yeah.. It just looks different than the L98 somehow. Maybe it has just been that long since I tore it down.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The reason it looks different is that is a two-piece RMS crankshaft. I believe your original '88 crank was a 1-pc RMS setup. Which had the back end of the crank as a round stub.

If this is true (orig was 1-pc) then a different flywheel or flex-plate will be required. The bolt hole locations are different between the 1-pc & 2-pc cranks.

RBob.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

That would explain it... dang it. Suggested part #'s for an oil pan and flex plate anyone?

Wait a sec... The casting number on the block is 14093638
14093638...350...87-95...2 or 4...Roller or flat tappet cam, one-piece rear seal (mortec)

AlkyIROC

Looks like a one piece RMS block with a 2 piece RMS conversion and crankshaft.

Pre 86ish oil pan with passenger side dipstick

Since it's internally balanced, pre 86ish flexplate for a 350.

When in doubt, contact the builder instead of guessing in case you guess wrong.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Why would they do that? Any valid reason?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

my engine is the same way, its a roller block with a 2pc rear main conversion. There are more options for the 2pc cranks than 1pc ones. Just give them a call, im sure they will be happy to answer this question for you, I found them very helpful.

for example, i just flipped to the cranks page in my trusty jegs catalog and found 2, 1pc cranks and 23+, 2 pc cranks

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

That is what I would consider a valid reason.

I can never get T&L on the phone, lol. I guess they're busy building engines!

I'm in the process of writing a complete review of my transaction with T&L to help answer any questions about them.

Ok, now.. Obviously I will need a new 153tooth flexplate for a 2-piece RMS.

86TA - What did you use for an oil pan?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

They should have said they were using a 2-piece RMS crank. There are plenty of 1-piece RMS 383 crank choices now, unless this is something really wild.

If they didn't specifically say they were sending you an engine with a 2-piece RMS crank, they should provide the flexplate you need.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

I guess I am equally guilty of not asking. I asked if it was a roller block. The answer was yes. I left it at that. My stupidity really..

I'll just track down a flexplate. Still not sure about the oil pan.

Will this flexplate work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=SUM-G103SFI

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

Just heard back from T&L. Good news about the oil pan actually.


"The block is a one piece rear main seal, however, we use an adapter on the rear to accept a 2 piece rear seal crank. The adapter is setup to accept the 87 up oil pan so you will be fine there. The flexplate will need to be changed however. We offer a SFI flexplate for $69 plus shipping."

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i ran into the same issues with the flexplate/flywheel I new it was a roller block so i bought a 1 pc flywheel, after the engine arrived i found the 2pc conversion and had to sell/buy a new flywheel. They should probably put this little tidbit of info on their site.

jeffcj

iTrader: (3)

That would be helpful. I'm not upset. It gives me an excuse to read up on flexplates. Tooth count, etc.. It seems we have both 153 and 168 tooth flexplates available for these engines. I'm going to go take a look and see what mine is and then just buy a 2-piece version with the same tooth count. That should be..safe.

I am attaching an image of my expression when I first saw this one piece to two piece rms conversion thing..