I'm wondering how to get my car to startup faster. It's an 89 GTA 5.7 TPI. Some times it will fire right up, and sometimes it will take a lot of cranking for it to finally start.

I have done a lot to it to possibly help this, I put in new a coil, cap, rotor, wires, spark clubs, fuel pump, ICM, fuel filter, TPS, O2, and knock sensor. I bet I'm missing a few things... oh yeah and fuel pressure is good.

I suspect that my injectors are causing this. I still have the 22 lbs injectors and I don't know how many miles they can handle but they have about 175,000 miles on them anyways I think I should have the 24 lbs injectors for my ZZ4 cam.

What else should I look into? Could I be right about my injectors causing this?

 

I find the same thing in my 89 GTA, sometimes instant, sometimes it
has to turn over for some time.
Its either fuel or spark, but not sure which.

I'm considering fitting the MSD ignition to it, had their set up in a
corvette before and that started instantly! every single time,
even after sitting for 6 months through the winter!!

 

I am having the same problem with my 88 firebird 2.8L. Takes a good 6-7 seconds of turning over till it starts up, and even then it takes a second or two to idle right. I have done same thing replaced all the ignition stuff.

 

Honestly change your ignition...pump that sucka up..haha.

This is what I am doing with my camaro...not needed but wanted.

My plans are (note I already have some of these parts).

MSD Distributor
MSD 8.5 Wires
AC Delco Plugs Gapped to .045 (I have an LO3)
MSD APS Starter (3hp motor good to crank up to 17:1 comp)
MSD 160A Billet Alternator (More than ever needed)
MSD Coil
Custom Grounding Kit (8 point)

 

but why is my car taking for ever to start? I replaced all the ignition crap!

 

I guess next would be fuel, maybe a new fuel filter might help...maybe get some injector cleaner and toss that into your tank.

 

i have put injector cleaner in several times havent triec fuel filter a new fuel filter, but if it was the filter would'nt the car just die from starving from gas.

 

I have the same problem with my 5L TPI. I have the problem only after the car has been sitting over night. If it has run that day and I attempt to start it, it fires right up. But, if it has been sitting over night, it takes a good amount of cranking before it starts. I have the MSD blaster coil in it, new plugs, wires dist. cap and rotor. The engine has only 2700 miles since a fresh rebuild. I know I have one bad catalytic converter that could be causing this. I will replace it and see if it helps.

 

Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when the key is turned to the run position? If not, you'll have to crank long enough to build up oil press for the oil press switch to power the fuel pump.

 

advance your timing a couple few degrees

 

I fixed mine by changing the cranking fueling table in the prom. It now delivers fuel sooner which makes for an instant start.

 

This is why I cant wait to start tuning my LO3. All I hear is how much restriction the stock tune has for these cars. I have also heard bumping the timing 4* will actually improve gas mileage and help emissions and now will help starting as well....HELL YEAH. Thats all I wanted to say...thanks guys.

 

I also had to advance my timing

 

how old is the starter? i just replaced mine and have stock ignition components (all new though) and my car starts first or second time it turns over. just a thought, i could be waaaay off though

 

Aside from replacing the starter, I would do this.

 

2 things most often cause this:

1. Fuel pump relay. If it does not power the pump at key-on, the engine has to build oil pressure while cranking to turn the pump on with the oil pressure switch. This is a back-up system the factory put on so if the relay failed the car wouldn't be stranded.

2. Fuel pressure regulator. The FPR is not supposed to start letting fuel go back to the tank until the pressure reaches the setpoint. It also traps "some" pressure in the system after the engine is shut off. If the valve in the regulator leaks, the fuel pump has run longer to build pressure like airing up a tire that has a hole in it.

Check the relay by listening for the pump to run for 1.5 seconds when the key is first turned to the run position. The key has to be turned off for 60 seconds for it to run again to keep from flooding the engine under certain conditions. If you turn the key on and the pump doesn't run, replace the relay. Unplug the oil pressure switch above the oil filter. This will make no difference if the relay circuit is working properly. If you can't start the car sometimes, the relay circuit is intermittent. (corrosion on terminals etc.)

Check the FPR by checking the fuel pressure that you have when the pump does its 1.5 second run. It should go to at least 25 psi on a TPI setup. If it doesn't suspect a leaking FRP or inadequate flow from the pump.

The best ignition system in the world will not start an engine that doesn't have fuel under pressure flowing out of the injectors when it is cranking.

 

Wow I leave this for a few days and I find a lot of reply's!

My fuel pump relay is good I hear the fuel pump when the engine is not running and when the key is set to the on position every time. I always listen for the fuel pump before I start the car, every time.

When I put my fuel pressure gage on the rail and turn the key to the on position and not starting it. for the 1.5 secs the pump runs the pressure jump up to 42 PSI. But when the car is running its at about 38 PSI and when I open the throttle a little it drops to 34 or 35 PSI that is kinda low isn't it? The fuel pump is new but I wounden't doubt its bad, they seem to work any where from 1 mile to 200,000 + miles...

I ordered 24 lbs injectors because of my ZZ4 cam. maybe that will help too.