I went with a smallish cam, 268XFI HR13 and na man I Didn't start yet im waiting on my heads to come in! got everything eles I need.......just debating if i wana buy some jet-hot hoooker long tube headers....

how hard is it to do this swap with the engine in the car? nvm I forgot I got the spohn k-memeber. So I have to pull the engine out anyways?

Does anyone sell a clam shell for the motor mounts .....dont realy wana uses the old ones , but if I gotta then ill clean em up and everything.

 

You dont have to pull the motor for the cam/heads swap but it does make it nice to work on with the motor out of the car

 

Not bad at all. A lot of the things that gave me problems would have to be removed anyway before the engine could be pulled out.

 

~UPDATE~


HEADS FINNALLY CAME!..... camera crapped out on me today so gotta find another way to take pics

mods can you change the name of the thread for me please?

Edit~

 

So heres a question for everyone that is reading this thread/been keeping up with it.


I have a black car and I am going for a very sinister/evil/dark look here is abit about it if you do not know.

,black tail lights ( gts covers )( and the klears lenses all black with clear reverse) black interior , all red suspension parts,new red/blk stripes(not installed yet) polished y2k's for now.....debating on powder coating them black or getting some high dollar wheels that are black or just leaving my y2ks.

So.....their's the backround of my car now the QUESTION IS......For exhaust im planning to redo mine.( i'm not satisfied with it ) so I decided to go and buy some hooker long tube headers which will be from Jet Hot Coating.( Didn't buy em' yet.)

Here is one question : should I go with the " extreem sterling" it's all nice and shinney and easy to clean/polish back up and kinda matches the other shinny stuff on the engine

OR

Should I go with one of their black coatings?
Either the color coating or the jet hot 2000 black coating? wich would match the lil tpi plate vavle covers , body , interior .....


help me pick!!!

http://www.jet-hot.com/headercoatings.html
__________________

 

ttt

 

Do a polished lip wheel with black spokes if you black out the car but leave red suspension and red stripes. thats what I'd do

If you want to spend more money for the black coat, do it. It looks sick, but also depends on the rest of the motor color scheme

 

im going to leave all the suspension red like it is. Install the red/black stripe kit.

Whats black in the engine bay : valve covers, body ,tpi plate tpi box.....uhhhhh..... idono

get online for once man!

soooo many choices....! ( ive been home a week for a chest cold) and im going outa my mind. but too sick too wrench

 

Looks good man. I wonder your heads say "195 Pkg 65cc". Where mine say "L-98 65cc". Did you get the L98 angle plugs? Just curious as to why they're different.

 

I got the 195 comp's not the regular ones ...mabe?

also ordered a Harmonic Balancer today with a breather/pcv valve all in one.....

work is starting today and decided to take out my ac too....I NEVER uses it ...o their was that one time but besides that never.

got some last shots of her before i take her under the knife and a little vidioe ( 5.7 thanks for the idea!)

 

Here is what I do. I go to the Comp cam site and use their calculator. It will give you the best cam for what you want. Here is the links.

http://www.compcams.com/

http://www.compcams.com/Information/CamForm/camform.asp

It will run like a scalded dog

 

Have fun! I got mine running. And even on the stock tune, it pulls 3x harder than before. And the 5k shift needs to be raised big time. It is still pulling hard when it shifts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReO4ycnrrCA

Some tips from my experience if you don't mind:

Mark each connector you remove. Take pictures of everything before you remove it.
Replace your timing chain. Mine was kind of sloppy with only 74,200 miles.
There are grounds on the back of the heads that are a pain to get to. I removed all the head bolts, lifted the head, put a towel under it, and slid the head forward to access them better. There are not fun putting back on either.
You can remove your timing over with your oil pan still bolted in. If you try and put your timing cover back in, without dropping the pan a couple of inches, there is a very high risk you're going to tear your oil pan gasket.
Put thread sealer on ALL your head and intake bolts.
Don't be afraid to lay a thick bead of RTV on your China walls (don't forget the corners where it meets the head).
All the holes in the heads were not tapped deep enough. I had to use washers on all the bolts that went into the front of the heads (Power steering bracket...etc)
If you're using the stock throttle bracket, you're most likely going to have to put a few washers in between the intake and bracket to get proper alignment.

That's all I can think of right now.

 

what......?

planning to replace timing chain why were your holes not deep enoguh ? tb and that stuff is taken care of already.

 

i recommend degreeing the cam so you know its installed right. My last 2 cams i installed straight up dot to dot like your suppose to but the specs did not show up on the degree wheel. Had to move the cam around to get it to work. My latest cam i had to move alot for some reason. Maybe it was my timing chain out of spec but either way, degreeing the cam in helps and should be done

 

So mostly everythign is out. and I'm realizing I should degrease/ paint the enginebay. I do not have A pain gun so im going to have to deal with rattle cans. im fine painting it the stock black color

but what type/brand should I use?
should I uses a primer/clear coat?
also what a good degrease?

btw this work is being done tomorow!!!( 7-13-09)

 

While paint and primers are a matter of personal choice I will talk a min ablout surface prep. You obvioulsy know you have to clean the car but i wouldnt use a degreaser or atleast not a degreaser by itself. Enging degresers have tendency t leave behin and oily film even after washed down with water and the paint will not stick to it and wil have a tendency to fish eye. Even dish washing soaps can leave behing a greasy film. So what i recomend is useing something like a brake cleaner to clean off all the residues just befor you paint. Brake cleaner evaporates quickly and leaves nothing behind and does a fantastic job cleaning up oils. There are profetional solvents specifically just for this used for real paint jobs but concidering your going to rattle can the car down this will work just fine and can be picked up cheap at your local walmart. Youll also want to scuff the paint to give the new paint alittle extra bite and take care of the rust befor you paint it. Rust will come back and its not pleasent doing a nice job painting an engin bay only to have rust start popping through.

 

for degrease I was planning to uses
engine brite( degreaser)
and brake clean( love that stuff and have lots of it )
their isn't any rust as far as I can see.
I'm not going to uses dish soap.
the paint is just faded. wich I wouldn't mind giving it a little bit of a shine.
I hate orange peel, fish eyes and all that crap, orange peel i know just sand and go spary again. but the fish eyes are little air bubbles so how to i prevent that?
what grit sand paper should i use?

gahhh....

 

Fish eyes are spots where the paint has pulled away from a certant spot caused by some contaminate on the surface your painting like oil or grease. If the surface is really clean it shouldnt happend and if you were going to use a spray gun and mix up some paint they have fish eye reducer you can mix in but for the most part fish eyes can be eliminated entirely if the surface is completly cleaned up free of greases and oils. Also becarefull what you touch because this is a source of grease and oils too not just from your natral oils but from other things youve touched as well. Also again shouldnt be a problem with spray paint as long as the piece is dry but another source of "air bubbles" is water contaminats from the spray gun usually caused by the compressor and in clears because your spraying too closely/too heavily per cote causeing the clear to be hazy from all the trapped air. Also spitting of the spray can can cause bubble like things to form as its just a drop of paint that didnt flow out this can be controlled by not spraying to closely and keeping the nozzle clean. For sand paper i wouldnt use anything courser than 220 but nothing finer that 800. So ide use a wet sand 220 or 400 grit just to scuff up the surface without leaving any deep scratches.

 

Also dont forget to take an air gun and spray down the engin bay to clean out the leaves and stuff and wet the driveway down to prevent stuff from geting blown up and into wet paint.

 

Hey every one,

I got alot of work done today eninge bay clean up/ paint. motor taken apart cleaned and block painted. AC tanken out . ordered some new pullies and oil pan today ( aslo with gaskets) and tomorow I need to order a new PS pump and oil cooler lines ( http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...llblock-1.aspx) and probobly some other stuff



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
FOR ANYONE WHO IS GOING TO BE DOING A SWAP THIS IS A MUST!

SET ASIDE SOME MONEY FOR STUFF YOU DON'T THINK ABOUT IN THE BEGINING!! once you break into your project you start to be like o hey I don't like this here , I want to relocate/ replace this part. Or " O I didn't realize that had a leak and was going bad....

~~~~~~~~



After I go home shower and eat I will post up pics( I got alot...and detailed too!)


btw.....brake cleaner hurts and doesnt taste good.

 

ok here are some pics
before the swap


after engine came out

internals

 

 

sorry for some fuzzy qualitty pics taken with my nokia e71 phone
promlem i found in my engine bay.......



http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...urrent=198.jpg
and then their are more on photobucket....

 

~ crap i forgot the mock up pic!

 

so whats everyone think so far?

 

Metallica chips in the engine compartment - definitely not good.

Same block I've got in Berlinetta #1. Started off life as a ZZ3 crate engine, so it has 4-bolt mains and pink rods.

Had another one that was taken out of my brother's '92 Suburban, but it was 2-bolt mains, flat tappet lifters.

A decent block upon which to base a performance build.

 

I'd use head bolts. . .

 

LOL . I used one head bolt on each side. and for the valve covers are just restin on the rockers.

 

Hello! I read through this thread and this is something I want to do over the winter. I've got a question for ya! How hard was it overall to remove the engine and get all the parts in properly? My luck I'd start taking things off and would have no clue how to assemble it. I plan on buying a book on the disassembly and re assembly

 

Just be sure to mark each connector and label everything. Bags for all the bolts, the whole shebang. And take loads of pictures...

Looks great Toxic. Bling Bling. Should be a whole new animal when she is done. How hard was it to put in the tubular K-member in?

I just wish I could throw in a bigger cam in my formula. My crane powermax 2032 is just weak sauce. Stupid California smog *****...

And Irocthe5.7, you car sounds AMAZING! I wish my car sounded that good and looked that clean. Once I get mine running good, I am going to pull out the buffer and just go to town.

 

Fist off , read read and read some more. Their has been a good amount of people that have done this identical swap.( more or less.. different cam ect.)

It adds up quick. I thought I bought everything I needed, but then realized x was rusted out or x is leaking.

Find your self a garage to use with abit of space....it sucks when its rainy/snowie and you can't do the swap b/c the weather is bad and you cant do anything out side.

Before doing the swap make sure you want to. write down a check list of what you are look to get out of it. what your buget is and what eles you need to handle the power.

Anyone can go fast in a straigh line ,but can you stop, cornner hard, and not break anything?

Getting the engine out isn't hard, IF you have the right tools.

The hardest part so far was putting in the springs back in( at least for me so far)

When you disconect wires; LABLE THEM! on both sides so you do not forget what they go to.

For bolts and things like that ; get ziplock baggies to put the bolts in and lable them!

Take lots of pics ......digital memorie works verywell. like when its 11pm sunday night and you need you car back up and running for work at 8am monday morning. detailed pics work best so you can know how everything goes back together ,if you can't remember.

They make very good books for information on build/disasemblys and find a buddy that know what they are doing. (but do not relie(sp?) on them for everything! they might do it a different way that you would like/ and then their is the old saying that goes. If you want something done right do it yourself.

I've read aton asked questions apon questions,been a p.i.t.a to people( at least i feel like i have...sorry guys!) but if you have any questions feel free to message me.

mo

 

1. SO true, ( you beat me to letting him know)

2. k member not soo hard to take out. Just take your time don't get pissed. For old bolts that are rusty get some PB blaster and soak em abit and let them sit over night. Becarful that you don't snag any hoses/wires or stuff like that when you take it out.


When I started I didn't want the whole "bling bling" I still don't but she anit done yet hehehehe.

and I CAN'T wait for her to be done and I hope she will be a new monster.

 

I hate waiting on parts...

 

I think you will be happy with the power. I had a TPI combo that made 320 whp @ 4700 rpm / 370 torque @ 3000 rpm; swapped on the HSR, which had about 8 hours of die-grinder time in it and it made 343 whp (corrected) @ 5800 rpm, running lean (14.5:1 afr). Torque was down on the dyno sheet, but you wouldn't know it by driving the car. It has a 2600 stall Edge converter. Loves to rev now (WATCH THE TACH!).

Bill

 

After my Hooker super comps come it should be fun, also going to be calling afew dyno shops today...After the tune she should run even better

 

Thats the worse thing about any build. I waited an extra month and a half for my motor block/pistons/rods and an extra 3-4 weeks more for the fuel system. Can never get anything on time haha

 

They all should be here monday exept the Jet-hot headers which should be here in I dono....they take too long to come....

 

So I just realized I had a question....so here it is.

Should I Re-use my ac delco rapid fire sparkplugs ( the better of the twochocies ) ( which are mabe 3 months old?)
and what oid filter should I go with? ac delco? or fram? or idono??

See their is always somthing that we forget.....

 

You can't go wrong with a AC Delco oil filter. I had rapid fire spark plugs in my L98 heads. They are not long enough for the AFR heads. At least mine weren't. I went with Autolite 3924. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRM-3924/

 

yeah afr's need a longer plug than stock L98's i believe. I ran NGK's 6962 in my 383 just fine. I went step colder than advertised for the high compression and nitrous use. Worked fine. I believe hottest they make is called a 4 on the heat range and mine was a 6 but the hottest one in the series was a 5 so maybe its 2 colder. I'd just go 1 colder.

You need a .750 reach plug and with resistors

 

So I should go with a .750 reach with a resistor. I ran the autolites once before and found out they were tempermental to the weather. so looks like i might go with these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-6962/ unless theirs something better for my application.

 

Headers should be here on thursday.
ps pump,oil lines, march pullies came in.
Oil filter should be here.....when ever I find time to go to the stealership.
I don't know what heat rating I should go with for the spark plugs.....how do you find out?

Not going to have time till monday to work on my car.
going to work on my bike abit (cars an hour away at a buddys place )

 

stock i believe is rated at 4. I'd go 5 or 6 and call it a day

 

thank you. I'll post an update when I have something to update


~EDIT ~

well i have something to update.....

ordered spark plugs ( NGK)
ordered oil filter(acdelco)

and added up my all my orders from summit......I Shouldn't have done that..... I don't even wana go into the 3 inch think folder I have for the bills

 

Got my Bike running real nice!

Parts should be here TOMOROW!!!! ......or well in the morning ( now its 1:33 am) love working late.... I miss all the runhour traffic!

 

Parts came in today! The headers are pretty the look abit short to me though

and the other package came but I have been at work since 1030 am and how its 11 pm

so hopfully I won't have to buy anything eles for abit......need to pay for school.....blah stupid bills........

plans for monday :

~ finish painting engine bay( getting rid of the orange peale
~re-sealing the back hatch.
~ putting in new t-top bar.
~taking door pannles off
~anything eles I can with my motor.

 

How'd the headers come out?

 

uhhhh.......ok ok ok when i was cutting the tape and wrapping off i scracted my heaeder in one little spot ...stupid me i know

 

I wasn't gonna tell everyone about that. I woulda let you keep that little secret.

But since you mentioned it now.....

 

So what kinda cost figures are you looking at for just the upper end on the motor?