the cost?? uhhhhh..........I dont remeber I have track down all my invoices from all the different places. I know from summit alone i have $3,768.98 or somthing like that. wich is not including the heads and some other parts.

 

haha alrigh, thanks man

 

Update!!

I went to work on my car today and I Feel like I got alot done.

~I took off old weather stipping from the hatch , cleaned all the old glue off (what a pita) put a nice bead on both sides of the lip that the stripping sits on. and put the stripping on all nice.

~ I took the top of the hatch apart to re-seal it, cleaned all the bolts that big metal pice and preped it and painted and put it all together

~ started to take the t-top weather stripping off , well took it all off and found the dreaded rust........ alot of serfice rust and afew rust holes......so i clean it as best asi could with the tools i had and let it sit till i can take it to a good bodyshop to fix.......( damn gotta spend more money).

took crappy headliner out,sunvisors and over head console.

~took off tail lights to give em a face lift.....leds and new lenses( yes steve I gave in )

~ bolted up my headers( wanted to see what they would look like mounted )
got cam,timing chain rollers, oil pan, ect....

and also got my bikes oil plug off , wich was majorly stuck on. took an air hammer to it and have to clean the spark plug , and see if she works....

O and I Found out my bolt kit didnt come with head bolts soo.... I purchased new ones and should be here within two days.. and that is another thing that is holding me up.

i wana get more done just dont have the time ,between work and work, next day i have off is monday so looks like ill be working on this once again on monday

man my car is soooo dirty



LIST TO HAVE DONE FOR MONDAY~
~ tail lights done
~ find a body shop that knows what their doing
~ call fab shop for exhust ( dont mind going open headers for abit but gotta figure out what to do with my O2 sensor...
call the place I wana take my car to get dyno tuned and see how much they charge and what not.......


I keep forgeting that this isn't just a h/c/i swap... that it has been a huge restro....( ok not huge like every part taken off and acid dipped painted and put on a roticery(sp?) but it's gotten expensive. i gotta find a way to make more money.........

 

update for today :

got another set of tail lights, and started to stripp em down( pain and leneses)

trashed the lenses, and dont have anysand paper,brake fluid,aircraft stripper, so i tryed brake fluid dot3....it sucks but its slowly coming off and im doing this all on my break. trying to do as much as i can with out my car here.

hopfully by tonight ill have both sides stripped and ready for the klearz and spegetti leds.

Found a body shop to uses
now about to call fab shop.

then dyno shop....

edit~

called dyno shop and they dont wana mess with my car so gotta find another shop...

 

Why not?

 

quoting their exact words " the economy is slow so I can't" click

update : Yesterday I cut the batt tray out, mounted my 4th gen coolant/batt tray in. painted around it. started to hide some wires. painted my rear licence plate braket semi gloss black( was gona do it original color but only ha semi gloss black)

forgot I can't run the stock oil cooler (with the brand new lines i bought the other week) b/c of my long tubes. and some clearnace issuse. so I ORDERED some more parts from summit. oil cooler an longer valve cover bolts and some other stuff i couldnt take any pics yesterday b.c my phone was dead.

 

Yippy ki yay mother****er. This build looks awesome, didn't even know you had one going tox, until I found it today.

I am waiting for the lenses and spaghetti led kit. I should be ordering my LED kit sometime end of the year (since I still have a 10% off coupon). Well Ill keep checking back.

P.S. Finally got to working on my car, thought I was done ordering parts, then another few hundred bucks in parts was needed. Haha, I love the process, fix something and anything it touched breaks. Haha.

 

thanks man so true with once you think your done bying parts you forget about some.

I just want to get this on the road already. but I need to find a body shop. recall the exhust shop and then a dyno shop called edl performance( hopfully they can take on my project.)

i still have to
put weather stipping on
finish building my motor
hide more wires
drop back
and probubly alot more just cant remeber now.......sooooooo tired right now and wish i could just go to sleep.

 

edit 1.
That my friends is the rust I have to fix

~ edit two ~
called E.L.D performance and they don't want to dyno my car....never would i have thought that people wouldnt want to tune......so fusturating.....

 

So I ran into some trobles. I'm trying to figure out what throttle cable fits the holly 52mm throttle body. I want one of those pretty ones.... hehehe anyways I cant uses my stock one... what fits!!!

 

so i found out i have a lt1 type tb so i bought the lt1 36inch lockar cable and it looks like it will work.

Been trying to get my car runnin this week so I can bring it to the body shop ( it's about time auto LLC in rockville md) they want about $800-$1000 For all the rust work AND exhaust fabbed up.

So hoping to get car running my monday but **** always happends that you dont expect.

 

double post.

 

I want a Lokar cable as well, I already have their firewall mount trans dipstick and their oil dipstick. Hope to finish it all up with a throttle cable and kickdown cable.

How hard is it to install a throttle cable?

 

I H8 WWD- I have one for sale if you want pm me its brand new cant uses it b.c i realized i have an lt1 tb apparently. so I bought the right one.

 

good thread, tagging on.

 

I am not in the shape to do or get a throttle cable yet, but that may change. Just don't want you to like hold out on it for me. Thanks though.

 

Thanks man.

-I H8 WWD - its all good i didnt realy post it up for sale but im going to make a thread for all the left over parts i cant uses so i forgot to order one stupid AN-6 fitting, wich was a stair hose end so thats coing on monday/tues.. gahh hate aiting on parts....

 

what are people doing to mount their coils?

 

I mounted mine in the stock location after I trimmed off the cast-in lug located between the two aft right-hand manifold-to-cylinder head bolt holes. Had to bend the coil mount bracket outboard slightly, also.

Bill

 

any pictures?

 

tack welded the bracket to the ac delete box

some mount to the firewall overhang above the dizzy

 

Don't know how to weld(wish i did)

 

^ That's what I did also.

 

Mounted my 8226 coil in the stock location using the stock brackets. I just used a scraper and hammered out the rivets (I have no drill bits), then painted the brackets silver and installed the new coil in the stock location.

P.S. This has two connectors, I am unsure which went to which side of the coil, can someone let me know if it matters which goes on which connector on the coil or if each can just be placed on the coil not mattering on which connector? Thanks, and toxik, Ill get pictures later today.

 

I left it in the distributor cap.

 

Hey toxic, how long are our throttle cables? Roughly I guess. Better yet, which Lokar cable did you get? I'd like a full SS if possible.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-TC-1000TP36/ that is the "natural" and that is what i messured for so hope it works.

 

SHE LIVES!!!!! SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!! I'll post up pictures/vid when I can!


WOOOOOOHOOOO!

 

Hey man congrats! Good job on the build I've been following it since the start Can't wait to hear this thing.

 

Thank you man.

 

Thank you to everyone that has helped gather up all the info part #'s and advise.

I will post up a detailed list of all the part numbers I used (not like the first one, a list of each of all the stuff I USED). so hopfully it cal help some other people out. even though their are many different combonations a person can go with.

tuesday : picking up a Uhall trailer
wensday: going to shop; to get exhaust made, rust fixed and paint.allingment (sp?)
thursday: gona play the waiting game......while at work
friday: ive no idea...?besides work
sat : ive no idea........ in the words of rickie bobby " I wana go fast! "

 

So what next?

 

Video of it running.....

 

That's great!! You can come over & help me!!Glad you're almost driving! IDK why I never saw this til 2day...I caught a chill when I saw the rust!! Glad it's getting fixed! Probably a few days in the shop. Good luck!!

 

Yeh yeh yeh I will when you get your 315's on.... heheheh

if you live close I don't mind. yeh the rust depressed me for a few days. Even though I KNEW I had some ( stupid freaken t-tops)

 

I want to see some vids!

 

ill get vid tomorow

 

before swap




after swap

 

Nice! Did you get a tune yet?

 

nope not even an allinment, dropped it of to the sho to get the rust and exhaust done

 

nice build man, you may have given me a reason to keep this L98 and keep moving with it.

 

 

 

So what do I do for cruise controle? for aftermarket to match the other cables

 

I cant watch the video yet because I'm at work without sound and my home computer internet is off for now. BUT, I did want to say with that new k-member, you could remove the oil pan easily now huh. Since with the stock k-member you'd have to remove the front k-member correct or is there a way to slither it out?

 

it should be easily removeable

 

With a stock K-member. You can unbolt one side engine mount, lift the engine up at a tilt, then pull the pan. But undoing both sides & lifting the engine is much easier. No need to fully pull the engine or drop the K-member.

Getting the engine support, like at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96524 makes it easy to lift. Also good for swapping a K-member out, without pulling the engine.

 

i just pulled my engine to make things easyer to work on.

 

What about the trans and trans mount, these will "flex/tilt" enough to allow this, I'd assume since you didn't mention it that you don't have to touch the trans or trans mount to slither out the oil pan. Reason being is my pan is dented a bit (dumb PO tried jacking it there, not fully but did try) so I was thinking of getting a new baffled pan with extra qt capacity and add a cooler to it. Pans are like $100-$150.

What Summit states will fit my application. Looking to get at least a baffled one. Let me know. Tox, is the pan you have the Spectre finned pan? Looks a lot like it.
http://www.summitracing.com/compare.aspx

P.S. Make sure dipstick is on passenger side.

So sorry tox, don't want to seem like I'm taking over here.

 

Its all good man I don't mind . this is the pan i purchased http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-9022/

I didn't have to do anything with my trans cross/ trans due to the fact I pulled my engine.

So she is at the body shop now getting the rust fixed.the owner at the shop was telling me I should go with a fast computer managment system. instead of what i got now. b.c its a pita to tune. arg!