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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
wideband is always a good idea just expensive. ,many people like innovative or something idr but they have a ton of features.
as for mechanical vs electric i think itd depend on brand. in my mind mechanical will be more exact, electric could die at any time from a bad sensor or a burnt wire etc. on the other hand mechnical might have fluid running to the inside of your car and if that breaks or the lines outside breaks then its a huge mess.
id say electric for safety ease of installment etc. you have a brain so youll know if the guage is acting up and can replace the sensor.
Ok so I'm back . I found " complete swap t56" an hour away I'm going to pick it up on Saturday for $800. Guy says its it good working order and shifts well. What should I look at before I hand him the money?
if you move the front and turn it like it would when a trans is spinning. in each gear the tailshaft should spin one way and reverse should spin the opposite direction. im unsure how difficult a manual trans is to spin by hand.
plead to borrow friends space. buy him a case of beer and hell be happy just dont screw up his place and wreck your chances of working there again. itll be less money you have to spend.
oh yeah those may be important id say find some idt the light is specically important but the lockout and such might the speed sensor is for your gauge i think but might plug into the computer as well.
purple power and a wire brush otherwise try itherstuff like toothbryst and baking soda etc or do a multiple step process. id get all the grime off it then take some mineral spirits or MEK or something to get the oils off the rest of the way then clear the whole trans. its alot of elbow grease but doable.
I spent a couple of hours cleaning it with simple green, engine brite and oven cleaner . I don't want to scatch the trans so I used a a thoothbrush , and a scruby brush. I want to get the dark spots off so It will look good when it goes in
after you get it clean, wipe it down with mineral spirits or mek of sorta and give it a coat of clear, or hi heat clear. my friend used some type of industrial clear where grime wouldnt stick to it as he daily drove his car but then hed give it a quick quarter car wash and ever little bit of the car would be spotless.
I have a the pigtails and lower shift boot coming .
Ok I know this is a two person thead but kinda torn Between two things
1. Buy the Dakota digital conversion box for $299.
OR
2. Put the $299 towards a set of auto meter gauges ,
My funds are not that high right now and still need to buy ,coolant, rearend fluid ,trans fluid and some type of sound deadiner. I want to get all the parts I need before I start the work and I want to do it right way the fist time
299 towards autometer guages. because a: they look sweet b: they should be spot on c: you get more stuff.
MEK and the other solvent you can get at ace. MEK is nasty stuff and usually you can only get the subsititue but it works just as well. at work we use Awesome degreaser and then follow that up with the mek.
coolant if you dont know dont buy premixed its a waste. i just buy the straight stuff and pour it all in then add a full thing of water afterwards. ive seen debates on filtered vs well water. and i just use an additive if i have to use well water. no speciall additive just something that acts like coolant. hard to explain and not that big of a deal.
Last edited by tylercamaro; May 21, 2013 at 07:29 PM.
Thanks bud , I never buy the 50/50 mix its a waste of money. I was just saying the other stuff that I need too buy.
Ill take a look in the store around for those cleaners
the awesome might clean it right up! i think its called las totally awesome. its like 1.39 a bottle. i clean cncs and neglected machine shop stuff with it everyday. the MEK is a grease and oil remover so oils left behind after the awesome did its job. that would make sure you have max adhesion if you clear over the trans which in the long run would be a good idea to me personally.
Would a car parts store have MEK and the other cleaner , I don't think their is a ace hardware around my area
Edit: ok so I just Googled it . I know what mek is lol I just knew it by its full name lol .... Guess ill have to go to home depot to get more of it.
It has the same qualitys as acatons but doesn't evaporate as fast . I should have some time over the week end to clean it up.
Onto the part of what I should do about the gauges. I'm going to price out how much they are and if they are in the budget I might just do that ( since farther down the road I did want more accurate ones and also like the look
Last edited by toxik IROC; May 22, 2013 at 08:20 PM.
Ok o knows its been a couple days , work has been super busy , and then this past weekend I went camping in ocean city and got burnt like a lobster...( I normally never burn)
Anyways.. I have not made up my mind on gauges or conversion box.
Bit I did get coolant and the lower shift boot .
On the pedal assembly what is the closest hole for ?
Last edited by toxik IROC; Jun 3, 2013 at 06:07 PM.
Just bought the torque arm mount/ hardware then tomorrow I am buying the conversion box .
After that I think I have mostly everything I need for the swap
well i bought an 86 z28 with a 5 speed a few days ago so i guess im gonna start learning the manual game until i get a 5.3 and can mate that to my 400 tranny.
Ok. fellas or who ever still reads this half dead thread.....
This thread will soon come alive...
Nothing New to say about the camaro
BUT since I posted last , my jeep broke down on me couple times then last week I found out I need to dump a ton of money into that ( about 1200 in parts )
need new : tensioner,belt(replaced ), valve cover gaskets ( replaced)
, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pump, shocks front sway bar disconects, rear pumpkin seals and new rear tires
Im always interested in the work your doin... Not tryn to hijack but Speaking of jeeps im just finishing up the liberty we have, the dang 3.7 v6 took a dump at 120k ; ( umm wow that's large oops.
I lost my job day before thanksgiving. So I have had some time
~ Pulled the carpet
~pulled the center console
~pulled the radio bezel
yeh the jeep , is just emtpying every pocket.
I also bought a bike again... it was just too good of a deal to pass up.
2007 r1 with 4000 miles for 2k. so I've been working on the too. But by buying the bike I feel like it put the spark back in this build which I needed.
I can't buy the other parts till I get a couple of paychecks from my new job which I start on thursday.
Last edited by toxik IROC; Dec 24, 2013 at 09:46 AM.
Okay, just came across this thread and I have to put my two cents in. First off, you and IROC the 5.7 have put alot of work into engines built on stock bottom ends. This just kills me. Machine work isn't that expensive and for not that much more money, probably around $1,000, you could have a solid bottom end, using the stock block, with a decent crank, rods and pistons. All balanced and clearanced with a good oil pump so that when you run these engines, they won't just go to crap in short order. Myself, I hate doing things twice. Of course I end up doing it plenty. Always when I knew I should have done it better in the first place. If you think you can swing it, I would definitely find a good engine machine shop that builds race motors and talk to them about this. You will end up so much happier down the road.
Also, one thing I caught on reading the first page was the mention of 36lb/hr injectors. Unless your planning to make closer to 500hp, you do not want 36lb/hr injectors. Orr came through telling you to go with 30 lb/hr. If you have any questions on injector size, just do a quick google search for injector sizing. You will find a few sites with great injector size calculators. My favorite is Southbay who is also a supporting sponsor here and gives discounts to TGO members. They have a great calculator where you put in information on you engine build and they give you the injector size you need. Orr mentioned adjusting pressure which allows you to adjust injector output. Higher pressure also improves atomization of the fuel which improves combustion. Be aware though that higher pressure reduces flow, especially with rotary pumps, which most are. Be sure you check flow/pressure ratings on whatever pump you use. Once you know what injectors you need, you can search for them in Southbay's catalog or just call them.
Sounds like you're on track with the heads and cam.
Good luck with your engine build and have fun. I'm subscribed so if you have any questions, I'll give you what I know.
Okay, just came across this thread and I have to put my two cents in. First off, you and IROC the 5.7 have put alot of work into engines built on stock bottom ends. This just kills me. Machine work isn't that expensive and for not that much more money, probably around $1,000, you could have a solid bottom end, using the stock block, with a decent crank, rods and pistons. All balanced and clearanced with a good oil pump so that when you run these engines, they won't just go to crap in short order. Myself, I hate doing things twice. Of course I end up doing it plenty. Always when I knew I should have done it better in the first place. If you think you can swing it, I would definitely find a good engine machine shop that builds race motors and talk to them about this. You will end up so much happier down the road.
Also, one thing I caught on reading the first page was the mention of 36lb/hr injectors. Unless your planning to make closer to 500hp, you do not want 36lb/hr injectors. Orr came through telling you to go with 30 lb/hr. If you have any questions on injector size, just do a quick google search for injector sizing. You will find a few sites with great injector size calculators. My favorite is Southbay who is also a supporting sponsor here and gives discounts to TGO members. They have a great calculator where you put in information on you engine build and they give you the injector size you need. Orr mentioned adjusting pressure which allows you to adjust injector output. Higher pressure also improves atomization of the fuel which improves combustion. Be aware though that higher pressure reduces flow, especially with rotary pumps, which most are. Be sure you check flow/pressure ratings on whatever pump you use. Once you know what injectors you need, you can search for them in Southbay's catalog or just call them.
Sounds like you're on track with the heads and cam.
Good luck with your engine build and have fun. I'm subscribed so if you have any questions, I'll give you what I know.
Hey, Thank you for reading my old build thread. It is still a work in progress.
Shortly after I built it up I blew the 700r4 and then started saving for t56 swap and done the correct way Only getting the best I can. However everytime I gathered up a decent amount of money something big came up( bills life ect that the money had to go to) So It's been taking some time.
I simply ran out of money when I did the engine. I wanted to do the bottom end just couldn't.
I am starting to read about ls1 fuel tanks- since I will be draining the gas anyways might as well try and get a lighter weight tank.
I still need do somthing about the electric speed sensor vs the mechanical one. I am leaning to do an autometer set up but its money....
then dakota digital makes a conversion box but that like $350 or somthing like that.
someone on here does that converson to the tail shaft but then again thats $300+ and these stock 145 spedos are not that acurate in the first place. so it leave me leaning toward the custom gauge set up. I am not sure I know how to wire up a NICE gauge set up that look like a pro did it. I dont want to half *** anything.
Thank you for the info about the injectors.
At what point do you install a better fuel pump.
Last edited by toxik IROC; Oct 15, 2014 at 12:58 PM.
But I've been gathering up parts. while workin a ton at my job( spraying bedliner)
I am on the hunt for the lt1 dust sheild bolts, Called my local chevy dealer and talked to the monkeys there... convo ended up with me being frusturated.
Then I need to buy gauges . I think.. if i go that route.
Arp bolts ( about $120 Worth )
Have my t56 built up. I see no point on installing a t56 that has 80k( looks and feels good but why do all that work and not build it up?
Someone mentioned the yellow box on the back of the factory speedo. If you're using the factory ECM, whatever you do with the speedometer, you'll want to have the VSS signal to the ECM for best results, or you could program the VSS out of the ECM too. There's got to be a way to do it. I went ahead and built my own, virtually bullet proof 700R4 after screwing around with other builders' versions of what a tough transmission is. This thing I have now should stand up to at least 500HP without a problem. It cost smoe cash for the parts to build it. Just the input housing was $500, but there is no other like it.
As far as fuel pumps go, I personally will never do another in tank pump. The in tank pumps are more efficient because they are submerged in fuel and don't have to draw through a line, but they also fail and require a tank drop to replace. I do that job enough on customers' cars and don't want to do it on mine. My current fuel system uses two pumps. The first is a low pressure, high volume pump that pulls fuel from the tank. The other is a high pressure pump that feeds the rails. Thsi system has worked but it's also been a pain in some ways. At then track last month, the high pressure pump got hot and forced me to park the car to let it cool. Ended the day of racing for me. My next and last system will be a Magnafuel pump at the tank, plumbed according to their specifications. That pump will support the 406 I have planned for a few years from now. It will also work with what I have now.
I know what you mean about money. I plan to start saving $100 per paycheck, starting in two months and no way will I touch it, or such is my plan. I'll also put away another $100 for everything my wife wants to save money for. That way, when something comes up, she can have that money and leave mine alone. I save my money at work, locked in the top drawer of my tool cabinet. Safe from grabby paws. It will take me two years to save $5,000 for my 406 short block. I'll put it together with my current top end for a little boost in torque and HP. Then, save for heads and to build a new intake. I want more than any of the available EFI intakes offers, so I am going to have one built based on the Edelbrock 7110 tunnel ram base. It will be shortened to fit under my strut tower brace and if it turns out like I plan, it will support 550+hp. We'll see.
First off, you and IROC the 5.7 have put alot of work into engines built on stock bottom ends. This just kills me.
It shouldn't. I had no intentions of keeping that L98 in there long term. I slapped the H/C/I on it. It ran great and took 6,000 rpm shifts all day. It did exactly what I needed it to. In the mean time I was planning/building a 400+ ci engine. That's where the time and real money went into.
Right on. The main thing is to have fun. I just see so many guys putting engines together just to break them due to skipped steps. You obviously have a plan and know where you're going with this.
Most of the parts you installed on the L98 will go right onto the 400+ cid motor and work well. The only issue that comes up is chamber size. Toxic had asked this question on page one I think. 64cc(or there abouts), will produce somewhere in the low to mid 10:1 range compression ratio with a 3.5" stroke. Final CR, along with quench, can be adjusted by choice of piston dome, deck height, and gasket thickness. 72cc will produce the same CR range, with the same piston choices on a 3.75" stroke. When you use 64cc with 3.75" stroke, CR goes over 11:1. A little much for pump gas.
I will face this same situation with my 406 build since I plan to use my current heads which are 65cc. The one solution I have found is to use Wiseco pistons with 13cc dish. The added relief brings CR back into range, where it can be fine tuned to the low to mid 10s. Then again, a good machinist can take a plain flat top piston and create any relief in it that he wants. I may go that way too, once I decide if the Wiseco pieces are going to work for me. We'll also see what my machinist has to say about it.
I am planning on getting this back on the road the right way I just don't have an unlimited budget so it's taking time. I have been trying to save its hella hard.
I would like to get this back on the road at some point, I also found a friends house that I can use to do the work. But I'm abut hesitant since it's A one car garage but it's better than a shop fee.
Doning the work alone may bring up a challenge too.
I had a thought last night. I might just take every couple of hundred dollars I can scrape together and give to someone I trust. If I don't have it, I can't spend it. The hard part is committing myself to put money away and not touch it for anything else. It was real hard but I managed to put together at least $3,000 over two years for parts to build my transmission. At one point, I would save a couple hundred and then dig back into it for something else. That made it feel, for a while, like I would never get there. But I did it and my bad *** transmission is proof that I can save cash when it counts. I just need to apply that same ferocity to the engine project. I've also spent a chunk of money on equipment over the past few years. That hasn't helped.
Working alone makes the job hard in some ways, but not so bad. Removing and installing the hood for access to the engine bay is one thing that takes two people. Most of the work on my car, I did alone.
I used my floor jack to do my trans with a piece of plywood to protect the pan. Got it in and out without a scratch. The first time I had it out, I did the R&R at home and just hauled the trans to the shop at work for the overhaul. When I pulled it again to do more work and the new converter, I did the whole job at work on the flat rack. So much easier.
I'm an auto mechanic, have been for about 40 years. Tools aren't a problem, except that all my tools are at work and it sucks to have to haul tools home for projects. I never bring all the tools I need and end up running back and forth between work and home. End up with a huge pile of tools in the back of my work beater. Since I've been at the job for a while and have pretty much taken over one half of the shop, I just do most of my projects at the shop now. That's what comes with being an old timer. It's a huge shop anyway with 10 bays. If I tie one up for a day or two, it's not like it makes much difference. I'm their lead tech and diagnostic specialist, so they have to be nice to me since I would be hard to replace. I'm a real ******* too.
The next work I'll do on my car is the fuel system and dual exhaust. Because those projects will take a while, I plan to do them at home. It will be slow and I'll have to work on the floor with jackstands, hard for me being spoiled using lifts for everything at work. But I'll just take my time and if I run into something I don't have a tool for, I'll stop and bring the tool home the next day, If I can just control myself that is. Otherwise, I'll be running back and forth alot. I work 12 miles from where I live.
I've also been looking at ways that I can maybe do these jobs here at work if I just plan it right. I'll have to see when the times comes. When I finally get around to the next engine, I will definitely figure out some way to do that at work, even if I have to pay to have the car hauled back and forth.
Toxic lost his password to log in but....The IROC has sat in the garage, never moves (needs work) & he has been fixing up a Crew Cab Dually that he bought almost 2 yrs ago.
Hey all, I am still alive... my camaro is still in hibernation. I have mostly all the stuff I need to get my car back on the road. I still need all new fluids , new belts ect. my T56 needs a rebuild. MY camaro is sitting inside a the garage at my grandpa's place, so it is kind of out of site out of mind for the most part.
Every time I get just enough money saved for this build some stuff s in life that I have to throw money at ect. Its is frusturating to no end.
About a year and a half ago I had some major helth issues ,I randomly couldn't see out of my left eye. which caused me not to be able to work,drive do anything went to may doctors and each vist was $150+ . It depleted my savings while paying for my regular bils and life while this happed. I am able to see from both eyes now and this past year couple of years have been quite hard. I was working making decent money, catching up then the place shut down. Now I am loooking for work so I can feed my addiction.
I sold my daily drive that was a jeep tj so I could buy a truck that i've always wanted and to be able to make it work for me. plowing,halling junk ,anything really. The truck was supposed to be needed nothing. I purched it from a place that sold these trucks and supposidly had a high reputation. and when I got it , it needed so much work to just be safe for the road. I Have been working on that Between moving, job hunting, side jobs ect.
I do have an 07 r1 that i hope to sell ( i dont want to sell it but, it's the only way i can see me getting this camaro back on the road quickly.)
once I get my life staighted out I will get this car back on the road. The placed I moved has no garage , no shed and a stupid slanted driveway . so it's just one more task to do.
I feel like I really don't have that much stuff left to buy for this build but it will be a slow path till I can get money.
Last edited by toxik IROC; Mar 8, 2017 at 07:49 AM.
