Has anyone used solid motor mounts on a street car? They say it helps with transferring power, but what kind of negitive effects does it put on the car when you are not racing it? Is it a vibration issue?

Does anyone have recommendations for motor mounts?

New motor is going in, and I don't feel the 17 year old originals should go back in. I have a new poly mount for the transmission that came with my Spohn torque arm and crossmember.

The regular replacement mounts I've seen are just the rubber replacements, you have to split the shell open, has anyone seen a complete replacement mount?

Thanks

 

Solid motor mounts dont dampen vibrations. Just buy some poly ones. I have them and they work great.

 

If it's a street car, go with poly. All you need is the ploy insert. You split open the clam shell and slide it in.

 

I've run the Moroso solid mounts in an '85 Camaro V8, and that engine had been balanced, it wasn't just as GM built it. I really have no complaints. That car had a 700R-4 on a poly mount, in case it matters.

 

The term rattletrap comes to mind. I would assume that the smoother the engine runs the less vibration you'll transfer to the car. For a street car there is no reason to go solid. Personally I would go poly if I could find 'em.

 

When you go to the parts store and buy yer basic rubber mounts they come in new shiny metal clamshells.
I think I just used those... With a poly tranny mount.

You can buy that, drill out the rivets, and put in a poly mount if you like instead.

Most people who run solid mounts wouldn't recommend it on the street, if you want to keep your fillings in your mouth...

 

Thanks! Being that we use 3 out of the 4 possible bolts on the mount, anybody dealt with the clamshell wanting to come apart with the poly in it and the rivit poped?

 

You drill the rivet out when you put the poly insert in.

 

Yeah, with out the rivit, and only the one bolt on the one side of the mount holding the clam shell together, I would think this would weaken the mount 9without the rivets, has anyone had problems after changing out the insert?

 

The bolt is orders of magnitude stronger than that pathetic little rivet.

 

been running solid mounts for 4 years now.. just vibrates more.. feels better on launch and shifts since the rubber mounts arent soaking up torque..

i have no complaints..

 

Nope, working good for three years now.

 

I've been running Moroso solid mounts for a few years now, I drive my car every day. I didn't even notice a difference over the stock rubber ones except at high RPMs then it vibrates a little

 

what grade bolts do you use on solids?
#8 or 10.9s?
im using #8s but havent run the motor yet you think they are good enough?

 

grade 8 is more than enough till 9's.. then i would worry a little.

 

3 80's trans ams, one stock, one with dome pistons and rubber mounts, and now trying solid mounts on a 82 ho 355 780 holley and a 3800 stall, everyone says it will help on a lunch, will let everyone know. hope it don't twist the car. My question is just jack it up under the 6" crank is that the best way
Bill

 

In the past I had a pretty healthy 454 +.030 with factory rectangular port LS6 heads in a 1969 Chevelle SS. I used a solid mount on the left side where the torque pulled up on it, and a stock one on the right where the torque sqashed down on the the rubber. It worked very well. If the rubber gave any, the left mount could pivot just a little bit on the lengthwise through- bolt. I ran both a 4-speed and a Turbo 400 in the car, and honestly, I think that I could have run both of them solid with no problems at all.

 

Ran solids on a DD car. It wasn't to bad at all but I do have a higher level of crazy than most.

 

This is what I put in mine. I will never use the stock rubber mounts again,and since its a DD street car solids are not necessary.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...d=engine+mount