If its the stock Delco plugs, then yes, Its a 5/8 Spark Plug Puller.

If its aftermarket, It COULD be diffrent. Im no spark plug expert.

 

Alright guys update and more questions please help!

still can't get the plugs off, i'm half tempted to just change the wire set but i want the plugs off too. i'm 99% sure it's a 5/8 but i think either rust or debris is keeping the socket from going on the plugs fully. Is it safe to spray anything on the plugs and around them to try and get it cleared? i don't really have anything to blow it clean with. it does run i promise, sounds good for a stock v6.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKK7iVYH0Sw

sorry about the link(s), don't know how to embed on this website, but i'd appreciate you taking a look at them, they're more detailed than my descriptions can probably be. After it was running a few minutes this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGl0CA3ecMQ
(whining) noise started and i got worried but i quickly found it's the fan when it kicks on making it, does this mean the fan motor is going, is there anything i can do to help/ save it?

Finally after i started for the 3rd or 4th time today it started ticking...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-BsdxGfdaI
could this simply be some of the old gas getting to the engine? or something else, my friend told me to get lucas fuel injector cleaner for it, don't know if that would be bad in anyway to do that?

ALso what does this go to? it sucks air but idle's real low if i put my finger over it.
Oil pressure dropped real low too while it was running today, don't know how accurate it is seeing the fuel gauge doesn't work but all the others including the oil gauge seem to work. This is while it was running..

 

hmmm sounds like its starving for oil, sounded nice and quiet earlier too, hmm maybe the oil pump is on its way out?

 

that does not sound good my friend

 

sounds like it might have spun a bearing

 

it seems like the oil pressure fluctuates, especially after it's warmed up, is that a sign of the oil pump going out?

That ticking didn't start till about after the 3rd time i had it running and was warmed up pretty good. Obviously i have to go see if it's still there next time i start it but what am i looking at as far as diagnosing the problem? Is a spun bearing a major issue/repair?

 

that oil pressure is entirely too low, probably spun a bearing

 

you'll have to pull the motor and and then the crank, it will most likely have to be turned after a spun bearing

 

I wanted to ask, did you prime the oil before starting the car? or just started cranking it after the oil change

 

i think he just tried to start it without pulling the plugs and spinning the engine to prime it without compression putting strain on the bearings

 

Didnt put fresh oil in her before running it? Sounds like a bearing to me...and the super low oil pressure supports that. Red on the gauge = Bad.

If it was just the gauge going wacky, without the knocking, I might say the sender is taking a crap. If you want to know for SURE what the oil pressure is, hook up a mechanical gauge and check it. But im betting bearing issues...

J.

 

I changed the oil & filter, siphoned the old gas out and turned the engine by hand before cranking it, couldn't and can't get the plugs out... so this caused a bearing to go?? or could this have been a pre existing thing? they did put it in the woods 8-9 years ago for a reason.

 

whoever parked it probably had the same problem with the oil pressure. When you ran it with the oil pressure low like it was, most likely spun a bearing

 

alright so run it until a rod comes through my oil pan to confirm spun bearing correct? ughh but seriously i see two options now.

1. full engine tear down. Is it even worth it? cost of repairing it, it's a v6, 2.8l, just a basic firebird model, body is in bad shape as it is

2, find another 3rd gen to spend my time restoring. I want to restore a car i have my heart set on it now but this one might be more than i can handle currently.

and is there anything besides a full engine tear down to confirm a spun bearing. i guess i'll have to go spend another day with it maybe tomorrow but more than likely saturday and see what's up with it... i'm kinda bummed after all this, thought everything was going to smooth to be true

 

You have a loud rythmic knock, and hardly any oil pressure. Assuming the gauge is correct, you have a bearing issue. I really wouldnt even waste my time tearing that motor apart...unless you are purely curious. If you are set on fixing that car up, pick up another v6 motor/block and swap it in. Thats a fairly simple process as far as motor work/repairs go. Or...rip out the drivetrain, and swap in a v8 if you are feeling ambitious.

Just be honest with yourself. If you dont think you can handle digging into the mechanics, and you'd rather just tinker with body/interior stuff, then maybe this isnt the car for you. Im sure you can find another car that is in better shape that wont break the bank. I will say this...if you do decide to fix this car up, seeing as how it needs a TON of work it seems, the feeling of accomplishment you have when its finished will be pretty awesome.

Just dont dig yourself in so deep that you are stuck with a half apart car that doesnt run...its easy to loose steam. Like I said, dont "not try"...but be honest with yourself at the same time.

J.

 

sounds like a rod to me

I'd get another v6, maybe even the 3.4, and swap it in using all of your hardware and the transmission you have. That reminds me... Before you spend some money on an engine, drive it around a bit to see if the transmission works as it should.

I know you can do it... I went through the same thing with my car. A few months after I got it, I was on the highway in traffic and the oil light came on.... It would shut off when I revved it, but the next time I changed my oil it was shiny

 

V8 SWAP!!!!

 

I'm torn between what to do. Part out this car and buy another 3rd gen i can mess with or really get in deep with this car. i do want to "tinker" with body and interior but also wanted the engine to "tinker" with. A engine tear down or swap is more than i wanted currently. I fully expected this car to be a process over a year at least but pulling the engine and a rebuild practically wasn't on the list. I pretty much wanted something to bring back to be better than original quality and show room worthy, not make a street rod which is what this would turn into, i wanted light engine work.


another v6 swap is relatively easy correct? would a 3.4 go in with the same ease as a 2.8?

hmm the car has no interior currently but is driveable (on my proerty) tranny seems to move the car from point a to b fine. ah! Jack up the rear and see it the tranny shifts right that way???
ohh i should change the oil again.. see if it shine's.. should i even bother trying to get it to start again to confirm or just drain the oil now? would it be instant shiny oil if i did spin a bearing that last time i had it running? or start it up again before i do this... lots of questions, sorry


isn't a v8 swap the mother of all things i could do to this as far as time, money and work go? there is alot of fabricating to do this too right?

 

im in the process of swapping a 305 TPI into my old 85 2.8 l, there is no fabircating to do, buy a complete running engine and transmission with the harness and computer, (ripped mine outta an 88 donor car with floor holes big enough to drop a large child through that i paid 250 bucks for just to get it off someone property, runs amazing!) move the 2.8's motor mounts foreward to the front two holes, put the tranny on (took me and hour with a floor jack and hoist) then drop the engine in, put the v8 radiator and fans in, bolt it all up, connect the fuel lines and your done. it is VERY easy if you hae a donor car, mines taking longer cuz i decided to do a ground up restore and refreshen on the car. the stock fuel pump will supply enough fuel for a 305 easily, and everything else is the same. the v6 had no ***** compared to my 305, which i installed a light cam and valve springs in too, things gunna make some good torque and HP too. a V8 swap can be done in the course of a weekend if you have a donor car, then have the junk yard drag the remains off when your done with it. i even took all the triangulr frame ties off the 88 too and put em on the 85 after stick welding the cracked frame rail back together (ugh) those combined with tehe wonder bar, solid strut mounts, a strut tower brace and SFC's i will never have a cracked rail again or body flex for that matter, lol

 

Still a toss up on if this is going to be a parts car or fixer upper. started messing with it today and it ran fine... no knocking oil pressure was fine, engine warmed up and pressure dropped alittle but still within normal. Is it possible the noise/ knock was a noisy lifter? or the knock of a spun bearing is normal to go away?

NEW ISSUE! heater core blockage






need to pull the heater core? is this something that you can pull or fix or needs to be replaced?

 

Thats weird that the knocking comes and goes. TO me, it sounded too heavy/loud to be a lifter. Lifters usually tick. That was a knock. The oil pump could be taking a crap. Might not have spun a bearing yet, but running it with insufficient oil pressure will eventually destroy them. And quick too.

That looks like a heater core leak. Thats a fun job to fix. If you want to keep it from leaking and avoid fixing it right now, just unhook the hoses, and either connect them together or plug them. Im not positive on how the v6 cars are set up for coolant flow. But I would avoid running it with the core hooked up because its just gonna keep putting coolant inside the car.

J.

 

dude, those floor pans look pretty damn decent forwhere it sat, you paid nothing for this car right? so everything you do to it is gravy, fix that bad boy!

 

Solid floor pans. You're golden!


You don't need heat down there in jersey Bypass that bad larry.

Maybe the oil pump is just all gummed up (the pickup screen) Now that you have run it for a while, drain a little oil (cold) add a quart or so of atf, run until it's a little warm, and then change the oil. Don't do anything but idle with the atf in it.

 

i believe i'm going to have to pay $1 to get an actual bill of sale from the guy/ friend the car came from but yeah i got it for nothing. The rear where the passenger seats were are worse than the front, pretty rusted.

The tick/ knock went away and the engine temp got pretty close to normal operating temp before the heater core went... oil pressure stayed up. it would be awesome if that noise was a lifter and not a bearing. Would a spun bearing noise/ symptom come and go like that? i'm hoping the engine is "savable" without a tear down. Maybe an new oil pump, heater core and it'll all be good? (wishful thinking going on here )

 

To answer your question, the 3.4 swap is pretty much plug and play. There is a sticky on the v6 board about the swap. You yank out your 2.8, use your intake and accessories on the 3.4, and put it back in.

As for the noise, it was pretty loud. Maybe you got lucky and nothing is "seriously " screwed up... I don't think it was a lifter, it really does sound like you lost oil pressure. If the pressure is back, and stays up, what's the harm with driving it? You got it for free! It'll let you know really quick whether or not it is damaged!

I'd try the ATF thing to get all the gum out of the oil pan, then just work on the body and interior. Maybe purchase a 3.4 liter and have it on hand, then once the rest of the car is alright, register it and drive it until the motor blows (or doesn't blow, depending on the damage )

 

Here you go. 200 dollar 3.4
http://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/pts/1321695579.html

 

well to be honest how loud was that knocking? cameras do tend to make ticks and such nound much worse than in person, it COULD have been a deflated lifter, a spun bearing does NOT knock on and off like that, and a loose rod will not do that either, trust me, my caddy has had "crank lash" as GM calls it due to a bearing in the number 1 seat for 100,000 miles, put a new pump and bearings in her today actually, totally silent lol, anyways, if i were you man, i would not cross my fingers and hope, i would rip that engine out, the 2.8s blow head gaskets and get close to the same mileage as a TBI 305 in good condition anyways, and to replace the oil pump you gotta pull the engine no matter what, the K-frame is in the way of the pan, i'd drop an 8 back in and sell the 2.8 off, also if this car is never gunna see winter again bypass the heater hoses, get a pass through and run the hoses into eachother, then fix it when you can, you definately have a good foundation here, cut any rot out and weld in some sheet metal, undercoat it and keep it out of the winter and you will have a great car here man.

 

Thank you all for the advice, i think if the engine is runnable for now, i'm going to run it until it blows. If i do an engine swap it'll probably be a 305 (if someone was able to help) just because i don't see a point of putting another 6cyl in there besides ease of work. ( i might be able to accomplish that one myself.) I'm still alittle confused on what i would have to do to the motor mounts to make it work. And wouldn't i need another rear end too, or not? if i did go this route ever in the future anyone on here is welcome to come help me...
I think like you suggested Toehead i'll run it until it blows or doesn't blow... No matter what i think between thinking things out online and talking with you guys i'm keeping this body and will restore it with or without the 2.8L. More than i expected but i can't let it go now. The passenger side fender is my biggest body issue and has me worried but that's a topic for a different section.

 

the passenger side fender bolt right on, call certifit, they have new relacements for 35 bucks. also for the V8 swap, you unbolt your motor mounts from the k frame, (now is a goot time to replace em, 8 bucks at napa) and there will be a set of holes drilled foreward on the k frame, bend your brake line backa bit and bolt the mounts in the foreward holes, you will need an engine and transmission combo, your current differential will work, and just cuz it limps does not mean the tranny will shift, if the trans is blown, you may as well spend 500 bucks on a good running donor car with a crap body and do a power train transplant, is really alot easier than it sounds. trust me, its just nuts and bolts, it all goes back together the same way it comes apart, after i got over my fear of taking things apart i really took off on it, im a laid off level 1 certified hyundai tech, with NO schooling, and i STARTED working in a cadillac dealership, (where i bought my cadillac) and transferred to their hyundai dealer to avoid a lay off becuase of GM, and then got laid off because of the crappy economy :/

 

heater core = big pain in the ***