When I hit my key to start the car the starter pinon might engage the flywheel once and turn over. As soon as I try to hit the key again it does not engage the flywheel but merely clicks. The starter pinon will hit the flywheel but not engage to turn it over.

Now, if i hook up my starter button directly to the starter it will turn over everytime


Any idea whats going on? Or places to start digging?

 

VATS.

Check the tech articles linked from the thirdgen.org homepage.

 

VATS is bypassed. It will start with the key 1 in a thousand times and I'm pretty sure the starter pinon is extending like it should but hitting the flywheel. When using the starter button it turns over fine.

Its almost like it is a voltage issue but I can't seem to figure out why.

 

perhaps it's an ignition switch going bad?
Creating resistance in the connection affecting solenoid performance.
I'd trace from switch to starter.

 

find the wire that goes to the starter from the key. it must have 12 volts or it will not allow the starter to work. if it clicks.

 

Loose connection through the neutral start switch?

 

Heres what I found, try to follow me...


[Purple] Wire from ignition that powers starter soleniod (when key is turned) gets 12.6v when not hooked up to solenoid and key is turned.

Wire drops to 8v when key is turned and it is hooked up to solenoid.


When the starter button is hooked up to the starter (and button is depressed to crank motor) the solenoid {read: purple wire that excites solenoid when using key} still shows the 8v.

With the button, the starter pinon will engage the flywheel and turn the motor over. When just using the key, the pinon merely extends like it should but does not mesh with the flywheel or turn the motor over.



Now I'm stumped.

 

Sorry, I read your original post too quickly.

The starter motor itself is powered by the solenoid plunger engaging a bar in the back of the solenoid that puts battery voltage from the battery cable terminal to the starter motor lead terminal. Your remote starter button isn't loosing as much voltage as your chassis start circuit is, so the solenoid is pulling in farther with the remote starter than it is with the key. This could be due to a weak solenoid, or worn or gummed-up plunger/Bendix mechanism. Or, your chassis start circuit has high resistance somewhere (typically due to corroded connections).

My starter was giving me fits a few years ago. I tried new solenoids, new starters, new ignition switch - nothing helped. I finally just installed a remote starter solenoid. It doesn't require as much power to engage as the starter solenoid does, so it provides full battery voltage to the starter solenoid directly. The bus bar you put between the battery cable and start terminal on the starter solenoid when using a remote solenoid has a lot more current carrying capability than the chassis start circuit does.

 

Thanks for the informative reply, you help so many I understand reading through quickly at first.

This is a new starter from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-829000/

After messing with it forever to get it somewhat shimmed properly, I want to be sure I fully understand how the starter needs to be wired....

I have three posts on the solenoid. One large on top, one large on bottom, and one smaller post.

The ignition keyed wire runs to the smaller post, I got that.

My questions pertains to the larger positive battery posts...does it matter which post is hooked up to the positive battery cable and which one is hooked up to the thick wire running to the starter motor itself???

I've tried them both ways with no different result.