i picked up a 92 25th anniversary camaro, traded what was left of my civic to a ******* down the road for it. he said it needed a carb and a dizzy, as many of you know, don't trust a ******* mechanic. the oil pump is bad, never started her, but it barely spins. there is also burned oil flecks covering the inside of the heads. after seeing that i went under the car to go at hte oil pan, only to fine some one had tried and failed to remove it, also lost the bolt.... *** wipe. end result, i need to get at the oil pump with out removing the engine or the entire front suspention assembly. my idea was to remove the transmission so i could slide out the oil pan from the back. before i start trying to find a bigger car jack, does any one know a better way? or any thing that would help, even what brand of oil pump is best.

its a manual trans, and the engine is is a 350, the head codes are from an L98 or so several googline sprees say. cant find a casting code anywhere on the block it self.

(haha they blot out R-e-D N-e-C-k)

 

Why do you think the oil pump is bad? You dont have to go to all that trouble to take the oil pan off, just pull the engine mount bolts and lift the engine up a little bit. But for gods sake, charge the battery and get the thing to start first, then check oil pressure.

As a side note, I have only seen 1 SBC actually have an oil pump fail and it was on a circle track engine, it was a complete mechanical failure. Most situations of low oil pressure will be bearing related.

 

hey you can get the one piece oil rubber pan seal (no sealant needed) and just un bolt the tranny bushing. the dizzy is already out, and then raise the engine, with a rented puller. lift the engine, replace the pump. and bam youre done. but in between all that you need to remove acceso. water pump (get a new water pump) timing chain) and seals there.) i can explain the whole process, but its way easier to get the book from haynes. and youll have a bad *** third gen to burn out, in front of the dipshit who traded you. ha. but have a hot chick in the car in a bikini and chicks in the back seat too. make him jelious and flip him off. ha

 

Is the car a factory 5 speed, or a factory 350 car?

Also, once again, do not replace an oil pump until you do some verifying that its wrong. Even after I pulled off a pan I would start checking bearings before Ireplaced the pump. SBC pumps usually dont fail, the bearings do.

 

what do you mean "burned oil flecks" some type of description would help

also barely turning? from the lost the bolt statement it would sound like the engine doesn't have oil... what are you trying to turn it with? your hand? or say breaker bar on the crank snout? bad idea second it wont tell you anything...

get some oil in there get a dist and a carb preferably off of some running 350 for now just to start the engine then decide on the oil pressure situation... like Ljnowell said these oil pumps very rarely fail more likely to be worn bearings

 

a racing oil pump. high volume. then a supercharger oh ya. giga d- giga d.. yeah pumps dont go bad often. usually the oil pressure sensor go out 4 times before a oilpump. even if you did new a whole new block. they for go for 1500 with pistons, chain, heads, the whole shabang. summitracing.com

 

wow i didn't expect so many replies, thanks guys.
ok ill see what i can do about getting her started. i need to fix the throttle spring on the carb i picked up. should i try a mechanical oil gauge? as for the burned oil flecks, thats what it looks like. black flecks coming off the surface of the heads under the valve cover. what would it take to replace the bearings? also any one know the cost of renting a shop crane or dedicated hoist, or can it be done with out one? jack up the trans behind the bell housing maybe?

 

i mean the oil pump is barely turning, its gotten loser now. but there is a bit of a click as it moves, im turning it with a big slot head driver my dizzy is out so no need to turn a dry crank.

also the car was a 305 rs 5spd, but the old owner swamped it to a 350.

 

ya just replace it. its only 30 bucks. and another way to remove the pan is to put a board under the pan on top a floor jack while car is on jackstands,, remove the engine mount bolts and tranny mount, and jack her up till you can put 3 inch blocks between the engine mounts. but you gotta also remove the timing chain cover and stuff, requires the removal of the crank pulley and harmonic balancer, water pump, few accessories. but doable. should only take 4 hours top to perform everything start to finish. SOmetimes its not good to to replace the bearings this far into the engines life. IF you wanted to replace the bearing you can but might get a wobble. the black flecks id be a little concern, but having a few oil changes they should be gone. flecks from rusted iron prolly. im going to pull my engine soon, i want to rebuild it. only should take about a week off and on. maybe add a cam and ignition box msd too something cheap. im estimating it would cost under 500 smackers if i did it all myself, heads, engine, etc. (without the msd)

 

 

ok, ill see if i can get it all taken apart this weekend. exactly what needs to come out to change the oil pump? a quick walk through would be cool.