hEY ALL, I HAVE AN 85 IROC WITH THE G CODE L69 305 HO 5 SPEED MAN TRANNY WHEN I BOUGHT IT IT HAD A HOLLEY 750 CFM CARB ON IT, IT RAN BUT IT WAS REALLY RICH LOTS OF SWEET SMOKE BILLOWING OUT THE PIPES. iT ALSO BOGGED ALOT AND IN GENERAL RAN LIKE CRAP. I GOT THE ORIGINAL CARB FROM THE PREV OWNER WHO TOOK IT OFF CAUSE HE KEPT STALLING OUT. I REBUILT IT AS IT WAS IN PRETTY BAD SHAPE. I REINSTALLED IT AS THE PREV OWNER DIDNT REMOVE ANY OF THE CC STUFF. I DID A WHOLE TUNE UP NEW PLUGS, WIRES, CAP ,ROTOR AND COIL. IT RAN ALOT BETTER FOR A WHILE BUT GRADUALLY GOT WORSE . I DISCOVERED ALL THE SCREWS ON THE TOP PLATE OF THE CARB HAD COME LOOSE ,SO OBVIOUSLY LOTS OF VAC LEAKS. I TIGHTENED THEM GRADUALLY THEY LOOSENED AGAIN AND AGAIN THEN THE CARB STARTED LEAKING FROM THE BOTTOM PLATE .I REMOVED IT AND THE BOTTOM SCREWS THAT HOLD THE LOWER PORTION ON HAD COME LOOSE.AFTER TIGHTENING THEM LIKE THE TOP ONES THEY LOOSEN UP OVER TIME ALSO.EVEN WITHOUT DRIVING THE CAR THEY ALL COME LOOSE ALL THE TIME NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I TIGHTEN THEM . ANYWAY MY QUESTION IS IVE DECIDED TO PUT A NEW CARB ON IVE READ LOTS OF THREADS WHERE MOST GUYS SAY TO KEEP ALL THE CC CONTROLS BUT HONESTLY HERE IN CANADA THE BEST PRICE IVE FOUND ON A REMAN CC CARB IS 700.00$. AN EDELBROCK IS LIKE 300.00$ MAX SO I JUST THINK FOR NOW ITS THE WAY TO GO. SO BEFORE I GET ALL THE ROCHESTER OR DIE ANSWERS LETS JUST ASSUME I WANT TO GO THE NON CC ROUTE. DO I JUST HAVE TO CHANGE THE CARB ,DIST, AND MANIFOLDS. I WANT TO LEAVE ALL THE CC STUFF INTACT JUST IN CASE I LATER WANT TO PUT IT BACK, I KNOW PULLING THE 02 SENSOR OUT OF THE MANIFOLD WILL TURN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON I JUST WANT TO KNOW IF THIS IS ALL THATS INVOLVED . I ALSO REALLY WOULD LIKE TO PUT A SET OF OLDER MANIFOLDS ON INSTEAD OF THE AIR PUMP ONES I HAVE ON , BASICALY I WANT THE UNCLUTTERED ENGINE BAY LOOK OF YEARS PAST. ANY HELP AND ANY INFO IS APPRECIATED EVEN FROM ALL THE ROCHESTER OR DIE GUYS OUT THERE. THX.

 

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not sure on the carb, I have FI, but you can disconnect the air pump and just plug the holes from the manifolds. Have you considered headers instead? Hooker 2460's are pretty cheap and the Hooker 2055's come with the wye (Y) pipe....

 

yes i have thought about headers but at this point moneys a little tight and a set of used manifolds are coming my way for free... so yeah when times are better headers will probably be what i do . although Ive seen a few guys making good gains with manifolds that of had some flow work done to them. I'm really just worried there is more to removing the cc controls then just carb and distributor. thanks for the suggestion though.

 

since you have the 5spd stick,you can remove all of the
CCC system and replace the dizzy and carb with non-
electronic versions without any problems. BTW i never
had any problem with the screws loosening on any of
the q-jets i had,so don't know what was going on there.

 

hey so all this stuff ive been reading about the computer going into open loop closed loop and knock sensors screwing up and throttle position sensors not being hooked up is this true or is all that mainly worries for automatics.I'm mainly just worried ill have done more damage then good . It would be really cool if I could hear from someone who has done what im thinking of doing . ive talked to quite a few people about the screws loosening and no one has ever heard of it before . Even if i leave it parked within a couple of days they are loose again. The only answer ive gotten is that the carb plates might be warped. thanks for the reply.

 

Did you try loctite?

 

i removed the ccc system from my '82 back in 1990
with no problems(system was running rich and idling
rough),didn't know much about it so removed the ccc
carb and dizzy and replaced with those from a 1976
305 1/2 ton pickup-ran good(later figured out what
was wrong-constant 12v to ecm was missing,causing
it to run in "limp home mode" A few years later
installed a crossfire ccc system but thats another story.
On an automatic the converter lock up clutch is ecm
controlled.
On '84 up thirds the cruise control uses the VSS as
an input,so that will be inop as well if ccc removed.
Also forgot to mention above that i also removed the
ecm,all ecm/ccc related wiring and emissions valves
etc.when i swapped for the earlier carb+dizzy '81
2nd gen was 1st to use the ccc system-at least in the
u.s.

 

We did the exact same thing on an '84 Black and Gold L69 Auto. A few more things to do than your project, but essentially the same. If you don't want your CEL on then just unhook the connectors to your ECM, you won't need them anyway. Since all L69's came with electric fans you have to keep your Radiator fan switch connected(pass. side head between cyl.#6 & 8) this turns the fans on not the ecm, and also the temp sender(driver's side head between cyl.#1 & 2) for the dash gauge. We relocated the fan switch to the thermo. housing as for some reason the temp at that spot is higher than the pass. side head, this helps in turning the fan on sooner and keeping the engine cooler. Both of these wires are green and both go throught the firewall on the driver's side underneath all of the relays. We installed a TCC lockup solenoid so the tranny will lock-up in OD. You obviously won't have to worry about that. We run a 625 cfm Road Demon and I don't remember the jet sizes. 1 1/2" headers with y-pipe from Magnaflow, gutted Cat and 3" pacesetter cat-back exhaust system with '97 Ram Air exhaust tips. It came from the factory with 3.73's and no G80 option, odd because I thought all J65 4 wheel disc brake cars came standard with the G80. We replaced the open diff. with a new one from SLP that was removed from a brand new car. At the time they sold them for only $99! KYB shocks and struts all around. We replaced the entire dash and console with one from a wrecked '88 GTA. Anyways, we average 24 MPG per tank! So removing your ECM and that old Rochester isn't so bad after all. Good luck, you won't be disappointed!!

 

Thanks for all the info , just a couple of questions ... Did you use the stock aluminum intake with an adapter plate or did u go after market? Also what kind of distributor did u use.

 

Edelbrock Performer, still have the factory aluminum intake if anyone is interested. Bought a new HEI dizzy with 65kV coil on ebay for only $30 + $16 for shipping. The Batt. and Tach hookups come from the driver's side harness and are connected to the new dizzy without any modifications. We didn't reuse a single wire going through the pass. side kick panel from the ECM.