Does anybody have a cam spec reccomendation for a motor if I intend to keep the stock heads and TPI? Thanks.

 

Bump. I got the same question

 

I have been happy with mine. But then again, what are you trying to accomplish?

 

I'm just trying to give my car a little better power but still keep it a daily driver. I only have a 2100rpm stall convertor and stock top-end so I don't want something that performs only at high rpm.

I'm planning on putting a 350 with four bolt mains in place of my block because it sounds like it spun a crank bearing or something. It might be a pre-86 block so I don't know if the stock one will fit back in it, and if it doesn't I might as well upgrade. I already have nitrous so my rear end and trans won't put up with too huge a power increase, like if I bought heads and an intake too. I don't have the money for them anyway right now.

 

got stock cam for sale from lt1 lol interested?

 

If you want a good cam, I would stay within 204-210 intake, 206-214 exhaust duration about .430-.460 lift and a lobe separation of about 110-112. With the 110 it will have a bigger lope at idle and if you want to tune it will be a little bit harder. Those specs should work with a stock chip. The cam that I ran in my 305 before swapping to my current setup was a crane 114122, .423/.445 lift 204/214 duration and a 110 LSA. It worked real well and pushed the car down the quarter in 14.3 @ 95mph. If you are going to be swapping over to a 350 anyway, I would just stay with what you have and then build the other motor ($150-$250 you can invest in the new motor somewhere)

 

Crane has power max 214/220 cam that works well in these cars I think its the 2032 cam.

1.6 rockers on stock cam works well too... really like to get lift up abit higher than factory .415/.430 specs. heads only handle .470 or so... unless you try running offset locks and shim up the springs to raise the height over the guide boss... may beable to run .500-.510 depending.

To get guides cut down and setup wouldnt be a bad choice but you still have to take the heads off and do work to a stock casting thats not very good but better than other factory irons.

A more modern L98 grind with much more aggressive ramp rates will be a best bet. I'd do a 212/218 type cam on a 110-112 lsa. That should kick butt in an L98 and still run ok on stock tuning but will benefit from a good tune.

 

If your post was for a 350 then yes I would do what Orr89RocZ said. For some reason I thought it was for a 305

 

These specs sound very similar to the comp xr264hr12, which is a great cam for a 350TPI.
No matter what you do, you are still going to need a tune to get the most out of the cam upgrade.

 

I just quick glanced his information under his screen name there and saw 350 TPI. 305 may want to be a touch smaller on the cam but those cams do work in 305's with some tuning.

 

Thanks for all the good info. I won't make my decision for probably quite some time as I haven't even really looked at the new block yet. I am pleased to hear that I won't necessarily need to burn a new chip though. I thought that it was practically a given I'd need to lol.

 

well it SHOULD be looked into. Adding exhaust/intake mods and cam will change characteristics in the tune. If it was MAF it could compensate somewhat but VE is precise calculation in speed density setups. I didnt realize you have 92 which is SD. May need to invest in some tuning stuff to get the fuel you need.

It may run ok without it but it will run 10x better with proper tune. Factory cars can gain with some tuning.

 

i really didnt feel much of an increase with the crane 2032 cam when i had it in my old l98.... im up to a gm hotcam now and i felt a big difference in that...