Ok I got my block back from the machine shop today. The bore was .002 from normal light wear. We felt for a weekend warrior car that was good enough no need to cut the block. Well the shop put in new cam bearings, freeze plugs, checked and cleaned the block, and polished the crank for $185. Not to bad I don't think.

Anyways I got the block and crank home finally sitting in my garage wrapped in plastic. Now comes the time to place my order on summit. The block is a two bolt main from around the year 95-96. It originally came equipped with a flat tappet cam but it is already provisioned for a roller. My goal is for around 450 hp with a budget of around 2700. (Split into two orders I have 1200 now will have the rest come next paycheck). My first order will be for the bottom end, hears what i got so far let me know what you think:

Comp Cams XR276HR Cam and lifter set - $439.88
Eagle Sir I Beam Rods- $235.95
Speed Pro Hypereutectic Flat Top Pistons- $95.60
Sealed Power Moly Faced Piston Ring Set- $37.95
Fel-Pro Engine gasket set for 87-95 350- $99.95
Melling High Volume and Pressure Oil Pump- $27.95
Federal Mogul main Bearings- $27.95
Clevite Rod Bearings- $22.00
ARP Complete Engine Bolt Kit- $94.95

Total: $1082.18 -10%Discount= $937.96

I would like to spin this bottom end till around 6500rpm, what do you guys think of this short block set up?

 

You might be able to save a few bucks if you could find a set of stock roller lifters, and then just buy the cam. Also, do you have the spider and keepers for the lifters?

 

I'm sure I could find a set of stock lifters but I wasn't sure how much they'd like seeing mid 6000 rpm. And I do not I forgot about that never put it a roller cam before. Is this what your referring too?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-1001/

damn roller cams are expensive. 430 for cam+lifters plus 120 for the spider thats $550. Jeez I could just run a brand new flat tappet and lifters for $200. lol

 

Yes, for stock style lifters that piece is what holds them in place and keeps them from rotating. Some aftermarket style roller lifters don't need it, as they have a little rod connecting each pair of lifters, stopping them from rotating.

 

I got ya. Any thought/experiences with my rod and piston choices?

 

""""""""""""Ok I got my block back from the machine shop today. The bore was .002 from normal light wear. """""""""""""""

this will be your first problem. It is unclear what "normal light wear' is in a solid number.
You are buying new pistons and you should have the case bored for an oversized piston. The moly rings will require round bores and no taper. And a smooth cyl wall finish.


""" It originally came equipped with a flat tappet cam but it is already provisioned for a roller. """"
If your set on the el-cheapo route use a flat tappet cam. Use a high-zinc oil additive.


""""""My goal is for around 450 hp with a budget of around 2700. """""
Probably wont happen. Maybe in the neighborhood of 300 flywheel on a good day with the right induction system and heads. That is if you prep the heads and are using a decent casting.

Use the high volume pump with the bolt on pickup. Use a pouch oil pan and splash tray. DO NOT use the high pressure spring use the low pressure spring that comes w/ the pump. That is assuming you have the nominal rod and main bearing clearances and cam bearings that fit well. And you should have the rotating part balanced of course.

Good luck.

 

I appreciate any advise given but to say I'll be lucky to achieve 300hp on a good day is a bit of a joke. These vortec motors are pushing 400hp at the local track all day long.

 

Yeah, but I'd bet the difference that they're not getting it done for
less than the 3K you're budgeting.

If you're serious about that h-p, you're asking for trouble by not having the block "cut".
And cross-hatch honing is a necessity for any hope of proper ring seating.

We're not trying to be smart-asses, but good judgement comes from experience.
And experience comes from bad judgement.

 

To me it doesn't make a bit of sense to put new pistons in a less then perfect bore.... Ring sealing can easily become an issue. Even on a perfect blcok, going after the power you want to get it's essential to get a high quality hone on the block using deck plates and a power stroke hone....

Guess I would also question the hypereutectic pistons...IMO anything beyond 350 horse is pushing the limits of them, Forged pistons would be a much better choice.

I would question all the Vortech engines doing 400 horse.... I learned long ago not to believe a lot of the at the track horsepower claims, most are little more then a guess... I've done enough chassis dyno pulls to know what it takes to get 400 horse and have a reliable engine.... Cheaping out on the parts and machine work seldom works......