Hello,

My car's engine is leaking oil from what seems to be the rear main seal and maybe a bit too from the oil pan gasket.

I've decided to solve this problem and plan to do the job soon.

As it's not a thing which is done often, I've thought about changing the oil pump + pickup and also add a bigger (with baffles) oil pan.

My main concern is that I am keeping the stock Y-pipe and I don't know if I will have issue with the clearance between the pan and the pipe.

Anyway, I would like to know what do you think about the parts I've chosen (but not bought for the moment) :

- oil pan : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20200/

- oil pump + pickup : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-22146/

- rear main seal : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-2912/

- oil pan gasket : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...510T/?rtype=10 (it seems the bolts and washers are included, if that's the case are they a bit longer than the stock ones, as the gasket is thicker ?? )

Do you see something else I could have forgotten ??

Thanks for your answers.

 

That pan won't fit for ***** if you have anything larger than say oh a 2" y pipe.

Still working on this, it's tight against the pan and needs to be 2 pc to get it installed even. The pipe is 2.5 and flattened on the sides.



It's hard to see from the pic but exiting the header the pipe goes at a 45deg angle outward and tight around the corner of the pan, it's sort of like a skewed Z. There is no other way to get this to line up. I swear, with the Edelcrap headers and that pan you are going to have a hell of a time installing it, I don't think it'll do much better with other headers. The pan is tight up to the crossmember. Maybe just for long tubes? From this angle it doesn't look half bad, from the rear it's a joke!

Also, I wasn't impressed by the baffles in the pan it does have a trap door but that's it

If you have a KC4 engine cooler, the shortest filter won't even spin on. The cooler will have to be removed.

The milodon oil pan is worth every penny it costs more

 

Thanks for your answer !!

From what I know, stock Y-pipe on my LG4 is 2 1/4" large.

Speaking about Milodon oil pans, are you talking about this one ??

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-30901/

It seems to be the only one listed for my engine on Summit's website.

 

My bad, the pan is a Canton pan..beware of sticker shock though!

This one or similar (didn't check dipstick location)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-244T/?rtype=10

It has the required notch for the filter IF you have the KC4 engine oil cooler.

 

That Canton pan is what I was going to get when the time came. Looks like I may be going with this one, 1 extra quart and without kickout, but depth is 1/2" deeper. How would that affect y-pipe clearance?

I am using Hooker 2055's with matching y-pipe..2.5" under and around the pan.

If anything I have no problem staying with a stock size but aftermarket pan. Like this one by Canton. These are stroker clearanced in which I'd like to stroke my 305 to a 335 as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=CTR-15-010T

 

I am wondering if they are aftermarket Y-pipes which fit bigger aftermarket oil pan BUT with stock hearders.

If some people have installed these kinds of setup, I would be greatly interested to hear what they think about them.

Thanks !!

 

How could you have stock headers but need an aftermarket oil pan? What are your plans, in which anything like this will most definitely need a custom y-pipe. I don't believe anyway makes a y-pipe to fit stock headers but route for an aftermarket oil pan. I know Hawks has some custom y-pipes, but not for what you want.

 

I want mainly to have a bigger reserve of oil. So a new bigger oil pan, with baffles (something great too) is something I'd like to add.

From what I know, 5L of oil for these engines, even stock, is quite limited, even if most of the time you drive normally.
As an exemple, my daily car, with a really small engine compared to these V8 (it's a 1.9L) needs 6L of oil to be fully lubricated. And the rpm range used is quite the same as the V8 (0 to 7000 rpm instead of 6000 rpm for the V8).

I am doing things slowly on my car but I plan to do some driving on race tracks (for fun, not in racing conditions) and an aftermarket oil pan like the one above would be a nice addition to avoid problems during cornering or braking.

I will probably change the heads one day but for now, I don't know when it will be done. So till this day, I will keep the stock headers too.

But as I have the need and specially the opportunity to do some work on the lower part of the engine, I've thought it would be nice to use it to replace the oil pan too and put something which could be fully useful in the future.

I hope you see my point of view.

If it happens I cannot find a solution with what's on the market, I will have the Y-pipe custom done (or at least try to get it custom done).

 

I understand, now that you put it that way. Reminds me of Vaughn Gitten's 05 Drift Mustang (Year?, not the 2010 though, which is his newest), in which he had a 14qt dry sump oiling system. Now thats badass. Well carry on then.