Here's the scoop.
Std bore 350 4-bolt 010 block w. uncut cast crank. Built new (original block was never in a running vehicle) with Speed Pro coated hypereutectic pistons, resized rods w/ARP bolts. Balanced assembly. That build now has 60 000 miles.
A tear down showed one rod journal overheated. Not blue. Just a wasted bearing shell.
Machine shop (a reputable one) says:
1) Keep the standard bore (and pistons). Re-ring. Crank goes 10 under. Fresh rod hardware.
$1300
or
2) Go 20 over with new pistons. Crank/rod treatment is the same.
$1600
The standard bore results in the piston clearence being 2 thousandths out of spec (looser). Still a viable budget oriented approach.
Or is the extra 300 bucks worth it?
It's not a debate as to whether the machine shop is giving a competitve price but rather do you spend the extra 300 for what amounts to fresh short block with a longer service life?
I want to race this year and plans for a stroker build (more dollars) or the HRC/Dart 400 (way more dollars) just don't fit the build schedule.
Thanks for your input.

 

Does the $1300 re-ring include a fresh power-hone? If so, I'd do that. Being 0.002" over is no worry. In fact, my trusty old Keith Black catalog suggests starting 0.001" over in the first place.
But, if your pistons are the short H423s, I'd go 20 over. See, some H423s are 1.560", and some are 1.540".
I haven't seen this issue on any of the H345s I've checked, they're all 1.560" as they should be.

 

The current pistons are H345NCP with a 1.560 compression distance. Although a little worn on the anti-friction coating they appear to be in good shape. Cross hatch in the cylinder also appears to be consistant.
I trust this shop to perform the best procedures available. I would think (although I haven't asked) that a power hone would be standard fare. This build won't see as many daily driven miles as the previous one (about 15 000 miles/season) although I would still like some durability. It will go cross country at least a couple of times. Oil control is important too. I'm concerned that the additional clearence could lead to an oil burning issue. I had trepidation about making the move to a forged piston if I upgraded to a crate style engine (I understand that there are different alloys allowing for tighter clearences than what used to be the norm). From our discussions the threat of building an oil burner is not what I thought it was.
I'll have to consider this a little longer. I told myself a while back that once this block needs an overbore, I'd step up to a stroker. Problem is, I just can't justify the funds needed to do it the way I'd like. At least not at this time.

 

Just use standard tension oil rings, it'll be fine.
Summit has some stroker pistons for $160 / set, and the crank is $160 from CP, plus shipping. Add in the balance job, subtract having your old crank ground 0.010", add in a 400 damper and flywheel/flexplate, then re-figure the total $ for each option.

 

If you cant run the stroker now, how bout opening up the ring gaps now and spray it later?

 

I promised myself that the stroker build will have quality components. I know that lots of people make lots of HP with Eagle, Scat, etc. I would prefer Howards or Callies when I build the next one. Open road events and the Maxton or Loring Mile are on my agenda and I want something bulletproof. Forged crank, rods, pistons. An aftermarket block.
That being said, I can't afford the $4000 400cid Dart/HRC shortblock I have my eye on. Hence the dialouge started here.
As for spraying it (!). With the hypereutectic pistons and cast crank, I'm a little shy of going that route. Now an all forged 400 on the juice...

 

yeah the SHP 400 is a great setup and well worth the price. Just keep saving and do a budget build for this motor now to keep it running. 100-150 shot well tuned wont hurt anything as long as the rpms arent up too high. Hopefully soon enough you can get the SHP setup.

 

It doesn't make sense to me to do a stroker in a pre-'87 block, but it makes more sense to do that than suffer a stock 350 when you could have a stock-type 383 cheaper than nitrous. But putting a 200-shot on what you have is fine, if you use a Mastermind to bring it in progressively. Use an NX268H13, set it for 50% at 3000, progressively ramping up to 100% at 6000 rpm. It'll ramp up the nitrous and fuel, while ramping down the spark advance. It's a very safe way to add 200 horses to what you have.
The main advantage of the Nitrous is that you don't have to spend hardly anything right now. Just setting the end gaps on the rings. Or better yet, using either TotalSeal or C&A no-gap rings. I prefer the TS gapless top rings, myself, but I'm not sure they have 5/64" versions.

 

Looks like I'll soon be the proud owner of a 20 over 350.
Since I not going to get what I really want at this time, I'm going to go the cheap route. I'll allow myself the "luxury" of new pistons though. It's really a peace of mind thing.
As for nitrous, at this point in time I intend to work on the N/A aspect. Just my preference. I can't say I'm really big on NO2.
The inexpensive stroker is very enticing (although you'll have to explain the disadvantage of working with a pre 87 block Atilla). I've been working through the pros and cons of doing it on the cheap too. I'll restrain myself at this time. I'm well aware I could go a lot quicker for less bucks. I'm sure I'll get beat by someone who does too.
Anyway, I'll basically be back to square one. Last time out the 86 IROC at 3700 lbs went 12.7 @ 105. I suspect that the 86 Sport Coupe will be a few hundred pounds lighter. I've also beefed up the rear axle with the Dana 44 I bought a couple of years ago. That and a 3.73 rear gear as opposed to the replacement 3.27 in the repaired 9 bolt I had been using.
I'm hoping to get to the track before the middle of October.
Thanks for the input.

 

86 earlier blocks are not roller cam motors. Never liked flat tappets in these modern ages, especially with modern oil losing more and more zinc content.

Good luck with your build.

 

He's saying that instead of paying a fortune to retro roller a block you use an OEM roller valvetrain configuration to save yourself a bunch of bank.

 

That much I knew. I thought there might be something about the 1 piece vs 2 piece rms and stroker cranks. I'm aware of the differences so it got me wondering.
I covered the roller angle a couple of years back with a Comp retro kit. I had already been racing with a flat tappet when I upgraded.
You know the crappy thing. Once I move up to the SHP block, I understand that the block doesn't accept the retro roller with the tie bars. An OEM configuration (or similar) has to be used. I tried to find the link to that bit of info again and I can't find it. Pretty sure it's true.

 

The SHP does require the production style rather than the links. And the roller cam is the entire extent of why I dislike old-block-strokers. I wasn't aware you already have a set of retros. Roller gives much more window area for any given specs, the difference on a 5500-rpm 350 can be 30 horses. And with more displacement comes the need for more window area to feed it.

 

That's the same opinion my college engine's teacher gave me in 1977. Some things always hold true.

 

"Once I move up to the SHP block, I understand that the block doesn't accept the retro roller with the tie bars. An OEM configuration (or similar) has to be used."

Hmmmmm, in the far reaches of my mind I remember something about that. Maybe "tall" lifters were required if using aftermarket. I went the factory route with an AFR rev-kit and no problems as one would expect. Using LS7 lifters. I think Orr is using the factory stuff with his SHP block also.

 

.300" taller IIRC. Yes, I remember Orr saying he's using LS7 lifters.
With this latest shortblock, I can postpone my plans for a the 400cid SRP and see what kind of trouble I can get into with a little 353.