wiring questions
10-25-2010, 08:04 PM
#1
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Car: 84 Camaro
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wiring questions
I just pulled my 305 as i am getting ready to install a 350. just have some questions about wires and stuff. i want to remove wires i dont need.
1) what are these things in the water neck.
2) there are 4 plugs on in this picture none of them were hooked up on my 305
3) again no clue neither were hooked up on the 305
4) any clue
5) this is hooked on the ac box. what is it.
6) this hose that goes from the brake booster to the carb. what does it do. do i need it i know i do. and can i do something to make it look nicer.
7) i already removed this junk so please tell me i didnt need it.
8) i also am deleting the ac as it didnt work any way and i found a donor car with no ac at the JY can i just use that cover and still have heat or is there something i need to do before that.
9) there is also a lot of things that wires hook into on the drivers side by the fire wall and a big trunk of wires coming out of there. what are they and do i need all of there or are there some i can cut out of there.
10) i had a wire hooked to the tranny. 5 speed. what is that for.
Any help would be great.
also i am running new gauges for temp volt and oil pressure and i dont plan on having the original gauges hooked up.
1) what are these things in the water neck.
2) there are 4 plugs on in this picture none of them were hooked up on my 305
3) again no clue neither were hooked up on the 305
4) any clue
5) this is hooked on the ac box. what is it.
6) this hose that goes from the brake booster to the carb. what does it do. do i need it i know i do. and can i do something to make it look nicer.
7) i already removed this junk so please tell me i didnt need it.
8) i also am deleting the ac as it didnt work any way and i found a donor car with no ac at the JY can i just use that cover and still have heat or is there something i need to do before that.
9) there is also a lot of things that wires hook into on the drivers side by the fire wall and a big trunk of wires coming out of there. what are they and do i need all of there or are there some i can cut out of there.
10) i had a wire hooked to the tranny. 5 speed. what is that for.
Any help would be great.
also i am running new gauges for temp volt and oil pressure and i dont plan on having the original gauges hooked up.
Last edited by endo666; 10-25-2010 at 09:28 PM.
10-25-2010, 08:59 PM
#2
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Re: wireing questions
0. (the question you didn't ask but should have) DO NOT cut any wires!!!! Talk about the sure mark of a fool. Observe carefully that there is a gigantic harness coming out of the right fender well area, hooking to the computer-related stuff on the engine: THAT is the computer harness, IN ITS ENTIRETY. Remove it, GENTLY, CAREFULLY. That way, if you move to California someday like I did completely unexpectedly out of the clear blue one day for about a BIG raise about a decade or more after I removed mine, I could PUT IT BACK, and it WORKED, and that way I could actually DRIVE MY CAR. Great thing, that. Driving your car instead of looking mournfully at it sitting in your driveway is cool.
1. That's the coolant temp sensor and the EFE thermal vacuum switch. See question 0.
2. Looks to me lik somebody already hacked the smog pump off before you got it, and those are the plugs that went to that system. See the answer to question 0.
3. The ones marked "?" I have no clue; look like a hack job to me. The other one looks like the one for the fan switch, in between the #6 and #8 plugs, which probably explains why your car overheats if you let it idle for very long. Ah, those questions you didn't ask but should have....
4. Looks like for the underhood light.
5. Baro sensor. See answer to question 0. It goes in the box with the harness.
6. Power brake booster. You need it. Period. Whatever you hack back on there, better have provisions for it.
7. That was your cruise control. That, plus the A/C you're talking about hacking off, is about $500 off the value of your car, if it's a POS. If it's a NICE car, .... well,,,,,, .... now it's not any more.
8. Fix it. It's worth it. Believe it. Whatever it costs, you'll get AT LEAST TWICE that when you sell it. Don't hallucinate that "you'll never sell this car" because that's not how the world works. Believe it. Odds are better than 99%, you'll sell it someday; unless you're one of those people that parks their old cars on blocks in front of their trailer after they don't work any more.
9. DO NOT cut any wires!!!! Talk about the sure mark of a fool.
10. Back-up lights.
1. That's the coolant temp sensor and the EFE thermal vacuum switch. See question 0.
2. Looks to me lik somebody already hacked the smog pump off before you got it, and those are the plugs that went to that system. See the answer to question 0.
3. The ones marked "?" I have no clue; look like a hack job to me. The other one looks like the one for the fan switch, in between the #6 and #8 plugs, which probably explains why your car overheats if you let it idle for very long. Ah, those questions you didn't ask but should have....
4. Looks like for the underhood light.
5. Baro sensor. See answer to question 0. It goes in the box with the harness.
6. Power brake booster. You need it. Period. Whatever you hack back on there, better have provisions for it.
7. That was your cruise control. That, plus the A/C you're talking about hacking off, is about $500 off the value of your car, if it's a POS. If it's a NICE car, .... well,,,,,, .... now it's not any more.
8. Fix it. It's worth it. Believe it. Whatever it costs, you'll get AT LEAST TWICE that when you sell it. Don't hallucinate that "you'll never sell this car" because that's not how the world works. Believe it. Odds are better than 99%, you'll sell it someday; unless you're one of those people that parks their old cars on blocks in front of their trailer after they don't work any more.
9. DO NOT cut any wires!!!! Talk about the sure mark of a fool.
10. Back-up lights.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 10-25-2010 at 09:03 PM.
10-25-2010, 09:06 PM
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Car: 92 Jamaican Yellow Firebird
Engine: 305 TBI
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Re: wireing questions
I think Sofakingdom doesn't want you to cut any wires (hee hee). He has a good point. Get the engine swapped and running first. Then you can take your time, research what you need, unplug it and see how it runs. It won't hurt anything if you wire tie them out of the way for now. No one will look under your hood unless you let them............
10-25-2010, 09:25 PM
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Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: Stock 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: wiring questions
0. (the question you didn't ask but should have) DO NOT cut any wires!!!! Talk about the sure mark of a fool. Observe carefully that there is a gigantic harness coming out of the right fender well area, hooking to the computer-related stuff on the engine: THAT is the computer harness, IN ITS ENTIRETY. Remove it, GENTLY, CAREFULLY. That way, if you move to California someday like I did completely unexpectedly out of the clear blue one day for about a BIG raise about a decade or more after I removed mine, I could PUT IT BACK, and it WORKED, and that way I could actually DRIVE MY CAR. Great thing, that. Driving your car instead of looking mournfully at it sitting in your driveway is cool.
1. That's the coolant temp sensor and the EFE thermal vacuum switch. See question 0.
2. Looks to me lik somebody already hacked the smog pump off before you got it, and those are the plugs that went to that system. See the answer to question 0.
3. The ones marked "?" I have no clue; look like a hack job to me. The other one looks like the one for the fan switch, in between the #6 and #8 plugs, which probably explains why your car overheats if you let it idle for very long. Ah, those questions you didn't ask but should have....
4. Looks like for the underhood light.
5. Baro sensor. See answer to question 0. It goes in the box with the harness.
6. Power brake booster. You need it. Period. Whatever you hack back on there, better have provisions for it.
7. That was your cruise control. That, plus the A/C you're talking about hacking off, is about $500 off the value of your car, if it's a POS. If it's a NICE car, .... well,,,,,, .... now it's not any more.
8. Fix it. It's worth it. Believe it. Whatever it costs, you'll get AT LEAST TWICE that when you sell it. Don't hallucinate that "you'll never sell this car" because that's not how the world works. Believe it. Odds are better than 99%, you'll sell it someday; unless you're one of those people that parks their old cars on blocks in front of their trailer after they don't work any more.
9. DO NOT cut any wires!!!! Talk about the sure mark of a fool.
10. Back-up lights.
1. That's the coolant temp sensor and the EFE thermal vacuum switch. See question 0.
2. Looks to me lik somebody already hacked the smog pump off before you got it, and those are the plugs that went to that system. See the answer to question 0.
3. The ones marked "?" I have no clue; look like a hack job to me. The other one looks like the one for the fan switch, in between the #6 and #8 plugs, which probably explains why your car overheats if you let it idle for very long. Ah, those questions you didn't ask but should have....
4. Looks like for the underhood light.
5. Baro sensor. See answer to question 0. It goes in the box with the harness.
6. Power brake booster. You need it. Period. Whatever you hack back on there, better have provisions for it.
7. That was your cruise control. That, plus the A/C you're talking about hacking off, is about $500 off the value of your car, if it's a POS. If it's a NICE car, .... well,,,,,, .... now it's not any more.
8. Fix it. It's worth it. Believe it. Whatever it costs, you'll get AT LEAST TWICE that when you sell it. Don't hallucinate that "you'll never sell this car" because that's not how the world works. Believe it. Odds are better than 99%, you'll sell it someday; unless you're one of those people that parks their old cars on blocks in front of their trailer after they don't work any more.
9. DO NOT cut any wires!!!! Talk about the sure mark of a fool.
10. Back-up lights.
I will never move to California but i understand not cutting out wires. makes sense to me. But i want to clean up the wiring as i dont have any of the emission stuff on my car now and i dont have a place to hook it to on my new engine. i dont think much about my engine is smog friendly.
im sure none of the computer stuff was working. but maybe it was and i just didnt realize it but i shouldn't need it. nothing for a computer to monitor on my new engine.
i want to remove in some way what i dont need.
3) car doesn't over heat. the first owner or im assuming the first owner put i switch in the car. hold it one way to turn the car on flip it the other way to turn the fan on. works great for me.
4) i will probably pull the wiring for the under hood light out. would be nice in case i have an issue at night but ill just have to carry a flashlight.
5) what does a barrow sensor do.
6) i didnt describe my question correctly. there is a hose that connects to the brake booster. then that connects to a cylinder then that connects to a metal line that connects to the back of my carb. what does that line do and can i switch the line out to just a rubber hose.
7) the cruise control wasn't hooked up to the carb it just flapped there. and the previous owner had already cut some of the rubber hoses going to it. and it is a race car so it doesn't need cruise control.
the ac didnt work and that was a cost i wasnt going to invest in. to may things could have been wrong with it. plus the new engine doesnt have a bracket for the ac pump.
9) so what is your suggestion for making the engine bay look nice. i dont need a mess of wires all over the place.
10) cool.
thank you for the help.
10-25-2010, 10:00 PM
#5
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Re: wiring questions
Follow the large harness that comes up out of the pass side fender well, from under the blower motor. CAREFULLY AND GENTLY trace each wire to its end. Unplug it and peel it back. When you have done that, remove the harness from the car, along with each and every part it hooked to, and the ECM; and put it in a box.
Yeah that's what I thought too. Funny how LIFE intervenes in whatever we "think". Fortunately I didn't hack the whole thing to unrecoversble bits and destroy it, but instad preserved it unmolested; because when my phone rang 12 years later with an offer I couldn't refuse that requried a move to California, I GOT TO TAKE MY CAR WITH ME!!! I could put it back like it was and make it pass. Had I been short-sighted and a bull in a china shop with a pair of dykes, I'd have had to basically give the car away. What if that happens to you? Are you going to shoot yourself in the shorts without even giving yourself a chance of missing the big one in the middle? Your call.
Even if you DON'T ever use it yourself (like, you sell the car before you get to move west) I'm thinking in a few years there will be a greater demand for those things than supply, and we all know what happens when demand outstrips supply. You'll congratulate yourself all the way to the bank.
3. Yuck. You should read the posts on here about "my wife / girlfriend / brother / car thief /co-worker drove my car and didn't turn the fan on and now I need a new motor". Automatic is much better than something that requires human intervention. You'll find, by the way, that the electric fan wiring isn't part of the computer harness, meaning, you can actually put it back like it belongs and have it work right, even if the computer stuff is completely gone.
5. The baro (barometric pressure) sensor is part of the computer controls. There are 2 sensors in that system in some cars; one called the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor which measures the pressure in the intake manifold, and the baro sensor which measures the ambient pressure. Since "vacuum" is really th edifference between those 2, you need both to accurately measure it, especially at high altitude. Not all of the carbed cars had it. In hindsight, it was probably engineering overkill in that application (seeing as how not even "modern" cars find it necessary), but whether that's true or not, that's what it is.
6. Yes you need it. If you don't mind having to change it from time to time, you can replace the reliable metal line with a fragile and short-lived rubber one. Not sure what advantage there would be, if any; but it's probably possible.
9. A trip to the quarter car wash, rake all the leaves out of it, and get rid of some of the PO hack jobs would be good. Standard cleaning-up stuff. I'm not sure what more there is to say? Maybe a bit of paint here or there, but NO CHROME since it always turns to looking like a steaming pile of elephant plop in a short time, (usually less than a year) as the base metal underneath rusts, blows the chrome off, rusts, exposes more metal, rusts, rusts some more, and gets rusty. Oh and did I mention, it rusts? And even the tiniest bit of rust on a chrome thing looks like cold leftover stale butt cheese. Avoid chrome.
If it's a race car, may I suggest a better carb than that 1407 Edelbrock, with a more robust fuel supply system.
I will never move to California
Even if you DON'T ever use it yourself (like, you sell the car before you get to move west) I'm thinking in a few years there will be a greater demand for those things than supply, and we all know what happens when demand outstrips supply. You'll congratulate yourself all the way to the bank.
3. Yuck. You should read the posts on here about "my wife / girlfriend / brother / car thief /co-worker drove my car and didn't turn the fan on and now I need a new motor". Automatic is much better than something that requires human intervention. You'll find, by the way, that the electric fan wiring isn't part of the computer harness, meaning, you can actually put it back like it belongs and have it work right, even if the computer stuff is completely gone.
5. The baro (barometric pressure) sensor is part of the computer controls. There are 2 sensors in that system in some cars; one called the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor which measures the pressure in the intake manifold, and the baro sensor which measures the ambient pressure. Since "vacuum" is really th edifference between those 2, you need both to accurately measure it, especially at high altitude. Not all of the carbed cars had it. In hindsight, it was probably engineering overkill in that application (seeing as how not even "modern" cars find it necessary), but whether that's true or not, that's what it is.
6. Yes you need it. If you don't mind having to change it from time to time, you can replace the reliable metal line with a fragile and short-lived rubber one. Not sure what advantage there would be, if any; but it's probably possible.
9. A trip to the quarter car wash, rake all the leaves out of it, and get rid of some of the PO hack jobs would be good. Standard cleaning-up stuff. I'm not sure what more there is to say? Maybe a bit of paint here or there, but NO CHROME since it always turns to looking like a steaming pile of elephant plop in a short time, (usually less than a year) as the base metal underneath rusts, blows the chrome off, rusts, exposes more metal, rusts, rusts some more, and gets rusty. Oh and did I mention, it rusts? And even the tiniest bit of rust on a chrome thing looks like cold leftover stale butt cheese. Avoid chrome.
If it's a race car, may I suggest a better carb than that 1407 Edelbrock, with a more robust fuel supply system.
10-25-2010, 10:09 PM
#6
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Re: wiring questions
The barometric pressure sensor measures the "weight" of the ambient air. It does this through maintaining a wire screen at 75 degrees above ambient temperature. Then it measures the electrical current required to keep it there. The amount of current is then fed to the computer, which in turn adjusts the air/fuel ratio. The brake booster vacuum line is what allows your power brakes to work. Removing that won't make it equivalent to manual brakes, it will make them worse. The "cylinder" I believe is a one-way check valve to prevent the engine from bleeding vacuum from the brakes.
If you are going to get rid of the wires, go to a junkyard and get a harness off a car that is setup similarly to what you're looking to do. Save the original harness - you may need all or some of it some day. My 2 Cents.
If you are going to get rid of the wires, go to a junkyard and get a harness off a car that is setup similarly to what you're looking to do. Save the original harness - you may need all or some of it some day. My 2 Cents.
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01-15-2011, 06:00 PM
#8
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
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Re: wiring questions
Lonesomeloser ... huh? What are you talking about? There is nothing with hoses above any brake booster on any 3rd gen car.
Are you referring to the one of the OP's pics? Which one?
Are you referring to the one of the OP's pics? Which one?
01-15-2011, 07:57 PM
#9
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Re: wiring questions
It's not in his pics.....I am tearing my engine out and was looking at this thread. The object is above the brake booster and has a rubber hose to the rear of my intake manifold. I'll get a pic tomorrow if that would help.
01-16-2011, 07:36 AM
#10
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Car: 1992 RS
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Re: wiring questions
I remember seeing a sensor in someone's pics here, looked like the MAP sensor that's attached to the pass side cowl lip - is that what we're talking about? I have no idea what it is, but I do remember seeing that now.
01-16-2011, 09:55 AM
#11
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Car: 84 Camaro
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Re: wiring questions
picture 6 is the only thing that i see that you might be talking about. i think it is a vacuum line.
01-16-2011, 12:19 PM
#12
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Re: wiring questions
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