Trying to build a 305
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 14
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Car: 85 camaro z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Trying to build a 305
I recently got my hands on a 85 z28 with a LG4. I have been doing some research on and off the site for a little while and just have a few questions. The setup I am looking at doing is as follows:
Exhaust: Gmmg with hooker 2055
Air intake: Spectre 728
Rear end: 3.73 gears
Chip: L69 (only because i read it was a better one, chipping is not a big concern)
Head: world 305
What i need help on is picking a cam because i dont understand how to read the numbers. But based on research the best for a 305 without being overly aggressive is 215 degree @ .050" range.
I also am wondering on if an electric fan is worth doing because wont that just steal from the alternator and slow it down on that end.
Feel free to tear apart my ideas for good products.
Exhaust: Gmmg with hooker 2055
Air intake: Spectre 728
Rear end: 3.73 gears
Chip: L69 (only because i read it was a better one, chipping is not a big concern)
Head: world 305
What i need help on is picking a cam because i dont understand how to read the numbers. But based on research the best for a 305 without being overly aggressive is 215 degree @ .050" range.
I also am wondering on if an electric fan is worth doing because wont that just steal from the alternator and slow it down on that end.
Feel free to tear apart my ideas for good products.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 360
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From: Manitowoc, WI
Car: 90 Camaro
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: Trying to build a 305
After going down the 305 road myself, I'm going to give the advice that many here will give and I didn't listen to at first: Don't waste money on the 305. You'll be disappointed in the end. You'll start with heads and cam, then do rockers, then pushrods, and of course you'll need a new gasket set, possibly machining the block.. before you know it you'll be over 2 grand, at which point you could have bought an assembled 350 crate motor and been ahead in the power department for the same money.
If you want more power right away, just do a crate motor and nothing else. If you just want to change a few things but not the whole motor, do the headers and the gearing. Those parts will work with any small block motor.
If you want more power right away, just do a crate motor and nothing else. If you just want to change a few things but not the whole motor, do the headers and the gearing. Those parts will work with any small block motor.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Trying to build a 305
Yes, 215* at .050" is the ballpark you want to be in. I think comp's 214/224 is the 262H?
The idea behind the electric fan is control. The mechanical fan provides WAY MORE flow than you need. It also runs all the time, whether you need it or not. The electric fan turns on to cool the engine down, then shuts back off. So on the highway, your air-dam is doing the work, and you don't need the fan, so you'll get better highway mileage. During power, it'll cycle on when required. I highly recommend it. I used the Ford Taurus early '90's fan, and wired it to the low speed mode. No problems yet.
The idea behind the electric fan is control. The mechanical fan provides WAY MORE flow than you need. It also runs all the time, whether you need it or not. The electric fan turns on to cool the engine down, then shuts back off. So on the highway, your air-dam is doing the work, and you don't need the fan, so you'll get better highway mileage. During power, it'll cycle on when required. I highly recommend it. I used the Ford Taurus early '90's fan, and wired it to the low speed mode. No problems yet.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Car: 85 camaro z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Trying to build a 305
on the 350 my future plans are to eventually put an ls1 in my other f-body. The 305 is going to be my daily driver but i wanna be able to have a little fun as well.
And im going to go with a set of dual electric fans i saw on jegs not the shinest but im in iraq right now and i want the parts waiting on me when i get back lol
And im going to go with a set of dual electric fans i saw on jegs not the shinest but im in iraq right now and i want the parts waiting on me when i get back lol
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: Trying to build a 305
Having done something very similar, let me offer some alternatives to your list. Since this is to be a "fun" DD, and you have another car to make into the "monster", let's concentrate on the DD part:
The 2055HKR's are fine, but the GMMG is going to be annoyingly loud. I just put a Flowmaster Force II cat-back on my LS1/T56, and all I can say is I love it (I'm into performance, not loud or show).
It doesn't have the thermovac system, but should easily support the flow needed (and be much better than the stock single snorkel).
Too much gear. Especially if you do highway regularly. 3.23's would be much better, and a decent compromise between all-out performance and daily driving comfort & economy.
I'd make that a low priority.
Here's where I would depart, based on my own experience. I picked them because I wanted to do a home port job while putting my 305 on steroids, and getting them before I pulled my engine allowed me to have them ready to go when I did pull the engine. But, the sad fact is they need to be ported - World leaves them very rough, and as-delivered, they really hurt their potential. All of the magazine tests I saw using them ported them first, if that tells you anything. But, beyond that, for a DD, they really aren't needed. Instead, pull your heads, do a port clean-up on them if you like, change the valve springs, have them freshened up, and leave it at that. While the World 305's are decent heads, they really aren't necessary.
Based on your intended use, I'd agree with the Comp XE262 recommendation. If you take my advice on the heads, then the K12-238-2 kit includes everything you need - cam, lifters, timing set, valve springs, retainers (which eliminate those heavy and unnecessary exhaust valve rotators), stem seals, and keepers.
Electric fans work well because: 1) The are only on when needed; and 2) at slow vehicle speeds or at a stop, they operate at full flow (exactly the opposite with an engine-driven fan). The factory went to them because of fuel economy requirements, as they take less power overall to operate than engine-driven fans do. Whether it's worth it to convert - that's your call, but if you stick with engine-driven, a new fan clutch can do wonders for economy if it's gone bad. I don't know what the Jegs dual electrics will run you, but I got a set of used dual 3rd gen electrics from Hawks for my LS1/4L60E swap. You will need relays and some sort of temp switch to run them, but I had that with the LS1.
The 2055HKR's are fine, but the GMMG is going to be annoyingly loud. I just put a Flowmaster Force II cat-back on my LS1/T56, and all I can say is I love it (I'm into performance, not loud or show).
It doesn't have the thermovac system, but should easily support the flow needed (and be much better than the stock single snorkel).
Too much gear. Especially if you do highway regularly. 3.23's would be much better, and a decent compromise between all-out performance and daily driving comfort & economy.
Here's where I would depart, based on my own experience. I picked them because I wanted to do a home port job while putting my 305 on steroids, and getting them before I pulled my engine allowed me to have them ready to go when I did pull the engine. But, the sad fact is they need to be ported - World leaves them very rough, and as-delivered, they really hurt their potential. All of the magazine tests I saw using them ported them first, if that tells you anything. But, beyond that, for a DD, they really aren't needed. Instead, pull your heads, do a port clean-up on them if you like, change the valve springs, have them freshened up, and leave it at that. While the World 305's are decent heads, they really aren't necessary.
Electric fans work well because: 1) The are only on when needed; and 2) at slow vehicle speeds or at a stop, they operate at full flow (exactly the opposite with an engine-driven fan). The factory went to them because of fuel economy requirements, as they take less power overall to operate than engine-driven fans do. Whether it's worth it to convert - that's your call, but if you stick with engine-driven, a new fan clutch can do wonders for economy if it's gone bad. I don't know what the Jegs dual electrics will run you, but I got a set of used dual 3rd gen electrics from Hawks for my LS1/4L60E swap. You will need relays and some sort of temp switch to run them, but I had that with the LS1.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Re: Trying to build a 305
The camshaft you want to use wants increased compression ratio and lots of gear for a 305. A high stall converter will help a lot too.
As said the world 305 heads are just replacement heads. They need as much port work as doing a set of stock 305 heads. (if you want a actual power increase)
The chamber volume won't be right either.
If you want power kill two birds with one stone.
Home Port a set of #4416 heads and shave them down (about .040") to increase the cr.
You want the finished cr 9.5 or higher. (ya it matters)
If your 305 has factory dished pistons you want the heads at 52 CC
Install with a thin .015" head gasket.
3.73's and a 10" 3000 stall is not too much.
The cammed 305 will want to rev.
Replace the stock intake manifold. Get a dual plane hi rise like holley #300-36
Or the GMPP "ZZ4" intake for Qjet and EGR.
Long tube headers and a custom built 2.5" into 3" Y pipe will work a lot lot better.
As said the world 305 heads are just replacement heads. They need as much port work as doing a set of stock 305 heads. (if you want a actual power increase)
The chamber volume won't be right either.
If you want power kill two birds with one stone.
Home Port a set of #4416 heads and shave them down (about .040") to increase the cr.
You want the finished cr 9.5 or higher. (ya it matters)
If your 305 has factory dished pistons you want the heads at 52 CC
Install with a thin .015" head gasket.
3.73's and a 10" 3000 stall is not too much.
The cammed 305 will want to rev.
Replace the stock intake manifold. Get a dual plane hi rise like holley #300-36
Or the GMPP "ZZ4" intake for Qjet and EGR.
Long tube headers and a custom built 2.5" into 3" Y pipe will work a lot lot better.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Jun 1, 2011 at 02:04 PM.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Car: 85 camaro z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Trying to build a 305
purchased the hooker headers and gmmg (madhammer) today and ordering the cam on the 15th wife spent some money so gotta wait lol decided to go with the comp cam package
havent decided on the intake yet
havent decided on the intake yet Thread
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