bdawg23

eh, I just started having the problem yesterday. I'm by no means a mechanic, so I feel so left in the dark.

The engine turns over when you attempt to start, but it won't start. If you step on the gas pedal the engine will rev and die as soon as you take your foot off the pedal.

I have NO idea what's going on with this. Hoping maybe someone else has had this problem, just checking. Thanks guys

92 Firebird 3.1L

bdawg23

bump?

jhp73

there are three reasons a car won't start fire,fuel or air. One of the three is not happening or a combination of them but it sounds like you have no spark or fire happening. Could be a distributer,coil,starter. Do you have any friends mechanically inclined close by? If so call one maybe together you can figure it out.

jhp73

I noticed some of your other posts related to electrical issues well that is your fire. You could have knocked something loose when your were dealing with other issues be sure to ck all your fuses and make sure none are blown out

bdawg23

I did accidently blow the accesory fuse when working on another wiring project unrelated to the hatch release I had previously posted about. Do you know if there are any other fuse blocks to check other than the one under the driver side of the dash?

A few people have said they strongly believe fuel is not getting to the engine... aka fuel pump or fuel filter. I just don't know. A little worried about what this is going to cost

jhp73

There is a fuel pump relay not sure about a fuse. I had mine replaced because I had to get a new fuel pump the relay wasn't expensive I think Napa carries them, but not sure where it is my mechanic did it. I am pretty sure it is easy to find use the search option at top of third Gen page lots of info in old posts but you have to be signed in to use it.

jhp73

Here is an old post I found related to your issue:
Re: 1991 Firebird Wont Start and Wont Stay Running
Um, no.

First, if he's going to get any manual, he should get a Helms factory manual. Chilton's is lacking and Haynes is just plain wrong, end of story. Plus they can be had for about the price of Haynes if you know where to look.
Second, you don't need to remove ANYTHING to test the fuel injectors. There is a 6-pin connector next to the thermostat housing. Disconnect it and probe the terminals (pink and pink/black to blue and green, not yellow and black, which are for the CTS). Resistance should be 4 ohms (or thereabouts). Any more or less indicates a short either in the wiring or an injector. Then check each individual injector if a problem is found.
Last, the ECM can't differentiate between the EGR solenoids and it does NOT have a QDM. Nor do you have a mixture controller, as you don't have a carburetor.

Now, after you test the fuel injectors, I would check the resistance of the CTS, and measure the MAP sensor voltage with the engine running (between the green and black wires). Oh, and swap the fuel pump relay with the one next to it for the radiator fan. You didn't need to replace the fuel pump, as that wasn't an issue. Code 54 indicates a problem in the power side of the circuit, between the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch, which is actually running the pump instead of the relay on your car (and it's not supposed to). Oh, and you may want to get your hands on an ignition module (just in case) and definitely replace the ignition coil (if it's the original, it's probably worn out).

bdawg23

Finally just decided to have the car towed. Turns out the culprit was deteriorated vacuum lines and a bad idle control module.