Ok new at this site so a lil background on car
1990 rs 305 v8 tbi pos... haha
now the car wont start this has been happening on and off for a few months everytime 1 things fixed it runs good for a lil and dies again

So Ive changed fuel pump, fuel filter,plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Car started up ran for about 1 min then shut off and wont start. I've used starting fluid and it will knock over for a few secs then shuts off. I do not own the car yet its may jack *** of a fathers for NOW. He put 30 amp fuses in almost all the slots so I changed them back to normal but now you can understand what Im dealing with also when it is running the battery charges at full in red and I've changed battery alternator still no change bad ground somewhere

Since it knocks a lil when I use starter fluid I think there's a fuel issue any help would be great thanks

 

1990 car has VATS - might be an issue. Sometimes VATS will go bad and starter will still turn, but injectors won't fire any fuel.

I'd not be concerned with the "knocking" at the moment - this happens when using shots of strter fluid (not enough to really get a good burn, so it doesn't really run well enough or long enough off starter fluid).

Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on? (should hear it whine for 2 seconds)

 

yes i hear the fuel pump prime for about 3 secs then when i go to crank nothing will crank all day but wont fire up. note after i changed the cap and rotor and wires the car fired right up ran for about 3 mins "better then it ever has" then just shut off. couldnt get it started so i changed the router over to old one again and it started right for ran for about 30 secs and shut off and wont start again. at that point my anger level went through the roof and instead of kicking the car ive let it sit... ive tryed running a wire from 6 to 12 to get check engine codes and it blinked once and thats it so im guessing that is dead too. what really sucks in i have 2 days to get it running again or my jack *** father will try and get rid of it and the bodys nice i have a new motor and trans lined up and i dont wanna lose the car so if you could get back to me asap thanks

 

Interesting issue. I can't recall off hand which two terminals to short to get engine codes. Could you have picked the wrong two? Maybe check that, and leave the wire in there while it's blinking.

That aside, it sounds like bad injectors - though, the TBI units were built like tanks, it would be a surprise. Try giving it some gas before start up and while its cranking. Maybe take off your air filter cover and snorkel and have a buddy crank it. You should be able to see the injectors squirting gas in there.

The only other thing I can think of is a stopped open EGR valve - but this sounds a bit extreme for that.

Other things to consider
-Were the spark plugs gapped correctly?
-I thought battery terminals - but if it cranks good, that probably isn't it.
-Clogged exhaust or collapsed Catalytic converter?
- ...did you put the fuel filter in forwards?

Let us know how it goes.

 

just got back in with a clearer head lol so i went down everything u did and checked everything over again and im getting gas now wooooaaahhh so what could it be hmmm so i looked over again with a tester on my coil and the lines running in are good getting power but nothing from the coil now so i have no spark FML so now im trying to fig out why im not getting power i just bought a brand new coil and its not working is there a relay? or fuse? im checking now to see if the line runs power when cranking so any help would be helpful

 

Try the ignition module. Have had very similar issues with my 87LT and thats what it ended up being

 

Have you tried testing the ignition module in the distributor yet?

 

no i havenot checked that yet how would i go about checking it and where would it be located at i mean i have some knowledge of cars bt not all

 

hahaha sorry i know the location lol im trying to fig out how i would test it im low on tools but i have a stander light tester where would i check and do you have a diagram where i can go off it

 

You can take it to Autozone and they will do it for free. Make sure they test for 3 or 4 times to heat it up

 

thank you everyone got the pig running great 10x better then ever lol now i do have a few other problems if anyone is willing to help

when running "whooooaaaa" lol
battery chargers at 18 intel i turn on the blinkers then it flicks slowy down.
ive check main ground and seems to be ok dont know where else to check tho

also once warmed up and at a stop oil presser drops to bout goes back up to half way on gauge when moving again.

high beams wont come on unless i lift streeing wheel up and to the right the switch in the colum needs to be ajusted i just dont know the easiest methed

so any points would be nice thanks again guys

 

For your high/low beam switch, when you pull the lever it pushes a rod down the column to the switch that makes it work. Take off the panel under the steering wheel and you'll see it. The switch is held on by two little 7mm/eqiv. bolts that need to be slightly loosened to enable you move it towards you to take up the slack. Adjust it with the wheel in the position you usually drive in. It may make it easier to access by dropping the column's front two bolts that hold it up

 

Also, have you had your battery tested lately?

 

I'd have alternator tested as well - autozone/advance/oreilly's all test for free in the car - just drive it by there and ask.

 

its a brand new battery and brand new alternator lol

as far as high beams go ive already done so and fixed lol

also it would over charge like that before i changed alt and bat so maybe elsewhere a problem?

any ideas on the oil the pressure gauge? at start up it goes to half way but once warmed up and driving around its drops. like when i come to a stop at red light it dips down to 0 and flickers alot

 

Your oil pressure dropping at idle once its warm is normal to a certain extent. Low oil pressure usually means you've sprung a leak and risking critical engine failure.

If memory serves the accuracy of the gauges is determined by two magnets spinning in close proximity to one another, subject to wear over time just like anything else. Especially if you're having voltage issues, it could be more the gauge that the physical property of the oil in your engine.

I wouldn't worry about it too much, BUT if there are other signs of things like head gasket failure I'd be more concerned.

 

no cars running top for the first time in atleast a year new plugs,wires,cap,rotor,control mod, fuel pump filter

cars running great looked all over bay all over the head and bottom end and no leaks thank god lol

so you think it may be the cluster? or maybe a wire somewhere in the dash?

 

also the ac compresser stays on all the time i have to go under the hood and unplug the back connector to shut it off

which leads me to believe that the main wiring harness on the inside maybe having problem like a bad ground or something

 

Yeah, I would look behind the bezel. If your pressure drops to zero at idle it would be indicative of a larger problem.

Could be wrong, though. There's a lot of guys on these boards that know a lot more than me.

 

That's usually a failed/failing clutch in the compressor assembly itself... Though I don't know that unplugging it would free it up if that's the issue. I dont know enough about these AC systems to really say that with any certainty, though.

 

got ya ive taking off alot of the panels before to check what i was gunna be working with and the person who ownd the car before me didnt take great care the dash pad alone is bearly staying togther would buy new but ppl want like 400 lol once the cars 100% top maybe ill go that far hahah but thanks anyways will surf around and see if anyone had same problems

 

up date got a dash pad for 65 bucks whattttttt lol