ok so friday my wonderful car decided it just wanted to stop running with no heads up. So i get it towed to my buddies and start going threw it, got spark, but no fuel, so on that hand i think fuel pump, or fuel pump relay. Replaced the relay first since it was the cheapest and easiest. Not the problem so i begin to drop the tank, get it out and look up and OH! look at that someone had already takin the liberty of cutting an access panel in the trunk to get to the fuel pump would have been GREAT to know before starting! And to top everything off i cannot get the tank back in and get the straps to bolt on, any ideas of why it wont? any tricks of putting it in? need some help here, needed to be done saturday night and here i am monday morning.... then i get to do the heater core, and put my new tires on it. will have pics of everything later

 

ok, so i got the tank in, P.I.T.A! will be posting a thread with tips and tricks, just to help anyone in the future!

 

good job, i noticed you asked for help and then had it in an hour later, would be interested in hearing the tips though i plan on cutting an access hole if i ever have to do it

 

thank you, but i got a little excited over nothing, still nothing from the pump, so i have to further my exploration and get this thing fixed, i still have the new relay on and everything put back together and im working out of the access port. If theres anything anyone knows about them not getting fuel then please share your info, thank ya

 

ok, so i ran a wire to the pump off the battery and it came on, i guess im just gonna run it off a switch, maybe one day i will figure out what the cause is, but it will have to work for now

 

fuse? my s10 had issues and would repeatedly blow fuses, check all the wires make sure they arent pinched somewhere and grounding out.... the fuel tanks...


FUKC them! i did mine and didnt wanna cut into the car ended up dropping the rear from the car luckily i had a lift and put a trans jack under the tank and that got it pressed in there nice and tight to throw the straps back in

 

well what i ended up finding out is the its a fuse that is next to the battery that the harness plugs into that runs the pump. I had no idea thats what it was until i got on to alldata.com well the fuse or wtvr that the harness is sposed to plug into is busted, so the previous owner stripped the wires and taped a fuse to it, and 1 of the wires was not touching. SO after all of this, and the new fuel pump and the giant headache, i think that was my only problem.

 

Glad you got it fixed, if I had seen this sooner I would have suggested that lol. I replaced my fuel pump like you, but ended up having it towed to a shop that charged me $200 to "fix it". Didn't know about this site before then, but it's saved me lots of money since lol! Everytime something happened to my car from then on, I would check to see if my check engine light would come on.

 

yea i love this site, it has saved me time and money, but it didnt save me in time this weekend haha. but the way i look at it is if it every breaks down again im certain its not the pump! now i get to put a heater core in either tonight or tomorrow night should be fun!

 

you mind posting a pic of what you mean with where it plugs into and all please...

 

yea, ill get a pic of it tomorrow and post it

 

Its real easy to find once you do find it. Its tucked up bend the battery on the radiator support,under the lip, there's a relay or 2 there also, its in a weatherpack connector which throws people off, but its actually just a 10A fuse. Still kick myself in the butt everytime I see it

 

mine is between the battery and strut. and my 2 relays are up on the fire wall on the drivers side and there is one next to the blower motor on the passenger side

 

Lucky! Mine is tricky to get to lol. I believe those 2 places are the only spots they are located, so 1Broke_camaro look in those 2 spots, 1st being the location of guitarguy92b's location since you both have 92's. Even if it has been messed with, it can't be too far since the wiring isn't too long.

 

i think i know what you guys are talking about, but i just want to make sure thats all. ive got my 2 fuel relays on the driver side i know that for sure but other then that im not exactly sure

 

Stupid question, what are those two relays mounted to the firewall on the drivers side. One, in my case is just floating. PO work I'm guessing. One has the wire insulation shrinking back away from the relay, from heat I'm guessing. It appears most I see in the jy are in the same condition. Have not been able to research what these are for. But since they were mentioned here... Thanks.

 

@pmacd.. the 2 relays on the driverside firewall are the fuel pump and radiator fan im pretty sure in my car, but since u have an 87 rs, which i also had, they dont have electric fans if im correct? so in your case im not sure, but i could also be wrong on what they are, i will do some lookin around on alldata and find the answer for ya

 

I believe the other is for headlights

 

Thanks guys. The one relay appears to have run alot of current running through it, as the insulation is pulling back from the relay on all wires. The ones I see in the jy look the same way. Curious.

 

Ya mine are the same, don't think they come from the factory that way though. Good for testing voltage and what not though.

 

Yes, ease of voltage checking. You have a point. When in the electronics industry, it usually is a symptom. Usually figure the engineers didn't plan it that way.

 

so my phone decided it wanted to fall into a sink of water, so all my pics are lost, but i did manage to send a few to my email i think, will check it out. But i do have a ? my radiator fan dosent really work, i can turn it on by turning the ac on. i have kinda read up on it threw out the other posts on here, but have u guys had the same problem?

 

oh and my trunk latch decided it wanted to stop working, so i cant latch it shut, it wont come up or down like its suposed to, any ideas on that?

 

I think due to it's vertical positioning time, heat and gravity have allowed the insulation to creep back a bit. When I pulled my harness out to go through it and fix whatever needed to be fixed, I had thought about fixing them, but since there's a bit of air between them and they are a good spot for checking voltage, I just taped them up to keep them out of the elements. One day I'll fix them up the right way just so it doesn't look "hacked up". This was back when I was having fuel pump problems too.

 

Nope, have the exact opposite, one fan won't cut off. I think there is a sensor for the fans in the pass. side of the block. Not sure about your year and model though. I gotta go out there and look at mine one of these days, the engine runs too cool, won't go over 162* with a 180* thermostat. I'll dig around and see if I can help us both out. The hatch, I don't know. The PO of my car removed the motor and screwed it in place. The one thing I'm glad he did!

 

mine is a 92 RS, 305. and its a single fan. and yea from wat i have read on here there is a temp sensor on the driverside head. not really wanting to mess with it if i can just control it myself, especially since its gettin cool out, not gonna have to worry about it to much. and it can never be to cold the colder the better in my opinion

 

That's the old way of thinking, yes it is better, but your engine is designed to run at those temps. I always thought that too, then I learned about it and the effect it can have on fuel milage and just basic engine operation. If you want it to work correctly and function correctly as well, a custom chip would be a good way to do so. I've heard of the hypertec chips doing this, but can't say for sure since I've never used one

 

ya i get what your saying, i've never used any of the chips myself, i've heard good things and bad, dont think i wanna spend the money on one

 

so today i got my passengers side window back on track and working right, THANK GOD! it was starting to become a cold ride to work, especially with no heat at the momment haha. but im getting ready to hook the heater core lines back up and see what happens, maybe someone just unhooked them for no reason, doubt it, but hey worth a shot right? after that a few more beers will be consumed and i will start in on the trunk, its now latching but not lowering

 

well i thought i accomplished alot tonight, window fixed and trunk fixed, now the car is running weird, didnt even touch the motor tonight..... the idle is really weird

 

Isn't that how it always goes lmao!! Getting any codes? Did the coolant get to temp or was it just a quick start to add some juice t the battery?

 

the service engine light always comes on after about 5-10min of run time, i didnt really pay much attention to the light after it started running bad but i think its coming on a minute after starting. and yea i drove it for a good 30min and got it up to temp and everything

 

Is performance affected any or is it just the idle? Maybe its something you didn't notice the last time you drove it and it just now caught your attention.

 

performance really hasnt changed from what i can tell. it like lurch's a little bit when i let out of the gas at like 70-75, and when i first start it up the idle sounds like it has a huge nasty cam in it, then it levels out, it was going back and forth from that last night. Now today it just does it when i start it, after it levels out it stays that way

 

Use the paperclip trick and retrieve the codes, always a good place to start and will show other problems as well.

 

thought about doin that but i dont know which ones to put the clip into or where to look up the codes

 

You want to jump the 2 terminals on the right hand end of the top row. The check engine light will blink in a series that repeats itself 3 times before it moves onto the next code. You will get code 12, don't worry about it. The check engine light will blink once pause, then blink twice with a longer pause after that, then repeat it 2 more times. Just insert the clip, then turn the key to the on position, DON'T START THE ENGINE and watch the check engine light. Do not forget to remove the clip when you are done

 

For the codes
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...ode-right.html

 

awsome i really appreciate it man, will have to do it tomorrow after work

 

ok so i know its been over a month since ive posted on this thread, but i figured out what the check engine light was, its code 32- EGR system failure, so it kinda left me with more questions than answer. So i cleaned the IACV and it seems to be running alot better, but not up to snuff, and when i unhook the MAP sensor the idle was just fine on start up, unlike when its plugged in the idle sounds like i have a giant cam in it then leveling out, it dosent really run any different when its plugged in or not, maybe a SLIGHT difference when unplugged.

ANY IDEAS????? its drivin me nuts