I bought this 91 Camaro 5.0 new back in 1991 and it only has 31,000 miles on it. Yes, I should drive it more. I'm having problems starting it. It won't start and sometimes it will. Recent D/cap Rotor, fuel pump three years ago, I just installed an ignition module today and it started up with a spray of starting fluid. It runs great when it starts but when I turn the enging off it won't re-start. I'll try a ignition coil next. I don't think it's a fuel problem because it runs beautiful when it does start. I'm old school can't work on these new cars, have a bad back anyway, old man, that's me. I have a 1963 Ford Falcon rag top that's easy to work on, I can tune it up in 30 minutes and install a fuel pump in 20 minutes. These newer cars are a pain. Any suggestions for my Camaro sometimes starting and sometimes not. Like I said, I'll try an ignition coil next and then just call a tow truck to take it to someone that knows more than me. ---Greg in Orlando

 

Are you by chance familiar with VATS? ITs the cars vehical anti theft system. It works by dissableing the fuel injector pulse if its not saticefied your the owner. The reason why it will start with starter fluid is because VATS wont kill a running car only prevent it from starting. There is great write up as to how it works on this site. Take a look at it and feel free to ask any questions u may have about it.

 

Actually when I sprayed the starting fluid it would not fire up after the first try (was not running) I turned the key again and it did start and ran great. I let it run until engine was nice and hot. Turned off the engine and it would not restart. Sprayed more starting fluid and woud run until the fluid ran out. If it runs great when I do get it running it couldn't be a fuel problem and if I can start it now and then without starting fluid it can't be a VATS problem. Anymore suggestions? If the pick-up coil is bad would it run so great when I do get it to start? Same deal with the ignition coil, engine runs super just starts now and then.

 

depends, what do you hear when it won't start? a single click? nothing at all?

 

OK. I finially figured it out. It could be the VATS or the ignition switch itself. I took a look at the ignition key, not worn down, even the chip terminals look good when I compared them with a new key I got when I bought the car new and have only used a few times. I was thinking maybe the key chip is bad. I took the new key and tried to start the car up. First try nothing, I took the key out and put it back in and out a few times and gave it a jiggle, engine started right up and purrs like a kitten when at idle, roares like a lion with a push of my foot. I tried the old key, had the same results as with the new key, first try no start, take it in and out a few times, give it a jiggle, starts up and runs great. Hummmm, I found the problem, the dectective work is done except, is it the VATS or the ignition switch itself. Now what do I do. Take the problem to a professional locksmith, a good mechanic or the Chevy dealer. Keep in mind the car has 31,000 miles on it and 90% of those miles were highway miles, Orlando to Daytona Beach, Orlando to Miami, Orlando to Tampa. I am not smart enough to change an ignition, especially one with VATS involved. Any suggestions. Thanks for your help, it is much appreciated. I just feel so much better that I know what the problem is. As for the ignition control module I installed, it wasn't for nothing, the one I took out was dry as a bone, it's a wonder it didn't fry like an egg. I did shoot some silicone spray into the ignition switch, didn't help, but it still starts with a few wiggles and in and outs, maybe it's a horny ignition.

 

BTW, and this is important, The engine will turn over EVERYTIME I turn the key to start it up. It just won't start the engine unless I wiggle the key or move it in and out a few times. Sorry that I left that part out of my post it is important.

 

so everytime u use the new key,you still have to jiggle it? how about trying the old key and manually jump the starter with a screwdriver.

 

do you have any codes? sometimes vats sets a code 46.

 

Im going to have to take a guess and say its your ignition cylinder. Inside it are some contacts that allow the VATS module to "read" the key's resistance. If you dont have a good connection or one of the contacts is damaged you would have the problems you describe (having to wiggle the key ect). It's a fairly common problem. Really its not a terrably big job for the mechanically inclined. Not much different than changing a pre-VATS ignition cylinder. If you dont have the tools, time, or know how a good mechanic or a chevy dealer will be able to take care of it for you.

 

Thanks for all the info RT. It's nice to have a place like this for help.

 

Don't have a code reader 91, I'm old school, points, condenser kind of guy, If I was younger i'd learn all of this new electronic stuff but I'm too close to the grave to bother with it now.

 

This might be a dumb question but where exactly is the ignition control module located? Because ive sort of been having similar problems. I just replaced the cap and rotor as well as the ignition coil in my 85 iroc and when the car runs it runs like a top but on random occasions it just wont start no matter how many times i turn it over but if i just leave it for like 2 hours or so and come back it starts right up. So im not exactly sure where to even begin with this i was thinking maybe it could be the ignition control module but again i have no idea. Anyone got any ideas?

 

Yours may be different than mine. Mine is on the distributor. Easier to see if you remove the cap. There should be two connectors going to it.

 

It's right under the rotor it has THREE connectors. I would suggest you replace the Ignition Pick-up Coil also but this requires you to take the distributor out, get someone who knows what there are doing when this is done., the timing will need to be checked when it is put back in. If your engine is running like crap and it has some miles on it, replace the rotor, cap, ignition control module, and pick-up coil as well as putting some silicone wires on the car and a fresh set of plugs. You can get all of this stuff on-line at Advance Auto parts. be sure to Google "advance auto Parts coupons" and save big time, free shipping and discounts. I ordered a little over $150.00 from them on-line yesterday, got free shipping PLUS $50.00 discount. They have A/C Delco products and others that work just as well. Don't half-way do it, replace what I suggest and you won't be stranded by putting it off. Everything I listed can be bought at Advance for around $100.00 AFTER the discount and free shipping and best of all, some moron won't look up the wrong parts. My pick up coil was falling apart I'm sure yours is also in bad shape it it hasn't been changed in a while. Pay someone to install this stuff if you don't know how, consider it 1/2 car payment not 60 of them.

 

VATS module controls the injector firing and the starter, the starter wouldnt spin if it was a VATS issue. unless someone has bypassed the start enable relay under the driver side kick panel.

is the check engine light coming on at all?

 

Well like i said i just put a new cap and coil and rotor on it so i guess ill just have to pull it all back and replace the ignition control module and see if it makes any difference. Thanks for all the tips on the cheaper parts!

 

If that doesn't solve your problem the Ignition pick-up coil is bad and probably needs to be changed anyway. I went through the same thing and just changed everything including the plugs and wires. It's not that much $$$ to just do it all and be done with it.

 

When all is said and done, it was the ignition coil. The car ran great but after the ignition coil got HOT it was not working well enough to restart the engine until it cooled off. All of the other stuff needed changing since they were all original 20 year old parts. I forgot how much power this thing had when it was new but after the new parts I get pushed back into my seat with a heavy foot, great mileage now also. My baby is all well now. I wonder if it will take another 20 years to put 31,000 miles on it. I would like one of those new Camaro rag tops though. Red with black stripes and big V8, ahhh yeah baby. I think I would lease for 2 years though. These new cars are nothing I would want to own and have to maintain, just get a new one every two years. Looking under the hood of a new Camaro I scratch my head and wonder how they can work on these without losing their minds.

 

the good thing about having everything computer controlled like that is if something goes wrong, you plug in a scanner it it tells you whats wrong. no guess work about "well it could be this or that, or maybe this"

 

I don't think the computer will tell you everything but my point was about getting to the stuff that needed replacing, a computer won't do manual labor.

 

I tbought the vats just shut off the injectors didnt do anything to the starter

 

You don't need a code reader, just a paper clip. Under your dash there is a 12 pin ALDL connector, just bend the paper clip into a 'U' shape and stick it into the A and B terminals (usually the two pins on the far right end of the top row of the connector, assuming it hasn't been moved). Once that's in place, turn the kay to 'run' but don't try to start the motor. Then, just watch the check engine light and count the blinks. They come in pairs, and the first one you should see is one blink followed closely by two blinks, which is code 12 and is the standard code the computer sends to let you know you are entering diagnostic mode. It might take a minute or two, so be patient and have a pen and paper handy. When you are finished, turn the key back to 'off' and remove the paper clip.

Hope this helps a bit, if you get any codes post them back here.

 

Thanks for your help, I just had it read by someone with the right tool and it shows "fuel relay." I'm going to change that and see what happens. Now my speedometer stopped working. I changed the VSS on the transmission, that didn't help so now it's on to the VSS Buffer. I'm beginning to think I need a ECM, I think it's developed Alzheimer's.

 

Well almost the same issue happened on my 92 rs. one day as i was going to fuel up i left the car running i was filling the tank, and turned it off to go into the store, and when i was going to take off the motor wouldn't start, it would just crank. I already changed the fuel filter any ideas? already made sure the fuel pump was good by hearing it turn on, disconnected the fuel lines to make sure the throttle body was getting gas and it was. So what else could it be?

 

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The next thing is to see if you have spark, (ignition). If not, that could be any number of things that are part of your ignition system.

 

so it wasnt the key problem you thought you had it pinned down as???? im looking at a 92 but didnt buy it cuz it does the same thing after you run it and shut it off it wont start just turns over .... if its a 1/2 way cheap fix id mabee buy it though id rather have a 84