In the process of removing my TPI intake on my 86 Camaro I managed to strip the last POS Torx bolt. I had been soaking the bolts in PB Blaster for 3 days before attempting to remove.


I tried hammering a larger torx, when that stripped I hammered an allen in and that stripped.

Then I tried using Quik Steel to attach a nut to the bolt. That didnt work either. JB Weld might have worked better.

Having a previous bad experience with an easy-out bolt remover I decided to save that for last.

I ended using the method where you cut a slot in the head of the bolt and using a hammer and chisel to try and turn it. After a few hits with a BFH the bolt broke free. I was able to turn it out with my fingers.

I would recommend this method to anyone else that runs into this common problem.

 

Stupid german cars use allen bolts on alot of engine parts, so I'm no stranger to that stuff. Most times I'll weld a nut over the head, just to insult those german engineers I use a 9/16 nut.

 

I have been rebuilding a Varajet carb for a friend and that is put together with torx heads. Hate them things stripped out a couple of them. Was able to get the needle nose vise grips on those to get them out.

 

If there is room and the part is not too flimsy I recommend the impact driver method (note this is not an impact wrench!--it is not a powered or air tool). Basically you hit it with a hammer and as the down force is being applied the end also turns a little. This would be what I would use at likely the second, or maybe even first try (before the head is completely stripped). You have to be careful with some parts though because you do not want to break the casting.

No good of course if you do not have the clearance etc.

 

Thanks for the info. Had a stripped head on the passenger side runners when i changed injectors. Fortunately, i could get the rail in and out without removing it. Might be hard to cut a slot in and get a chisel in there.
Would JB Weld hold a nut head to the Torx head and allow me to turn it. Heard good things about JB.

 

If you feel one starting to slip a lil bit, stop, put some valve grinding compound on the tip of the tool and then you can take out the bolt. The compound gives the tool extra traction on the bolt.

 

^That's a good trick.


There is no chance that JB-weld or any other epoxy would work for something like this because it has much less shear-strength than metal.
Use the real welder.

 

Thats very true.