I want to replace the gasket behind the rear main seal retainer housing. The GM service manual states the oil pan must be removed in order to remove the retainer. I have a 1988 with 1-piece retainer. Has any one gotten by without removing the oil pan to do this? Is it possible to remove the crank seal to make some clearance then tip the retainer to get it past the rear crank flange? I have not taken anything apart yet, so dont know how much clearance the oil pan holes have to the retainer studs.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!

 

You don't have to get the whole pan all the way out of the car, but you do have to totally un-bolt the pan. If you want to keep the engine in the car, then the trans has to come out. And at this point, you'll need to secure the engine from tipping. Since the dizzy will have to come out no matter how you tackle this, you can put blocks of wood between the heads and the firewall. That's the how. Now the why: That gasket is probably the least-leaking, least-problematic one in your whole car. What makes you so eager to do so much work? Did you start running synthetic oil in a tired old engine? If so, switch back to the cheaper dead-dinosaur stuff, that may well help.

 

Doubtful
The seal adapter bolts to block 1st then pan bolts to the adapter so even if you removed
the 4 bolts to the block
little "wiggle' room while adapter is still attached to the pan

 

Vetteoz, I have my T5 and flywheel out and I'm basically seeing same thing as your photo. I have oil leakage, but not as much as in the photos. My goal is to replace all seals before putting the flywheel back on. Would you know if it's possible to replace the oil pan gaskets without raising the engine?

It appears one could drop the pan by about an inch, but don't want to find out the hard way it's not possible. I really don't want to disturb the exhaust hookups, motor mounts, etc. I'm able to find the original 4-piece gasket, which means I wouldn't have to fish a newer 1 piece gasket under the pickup (if that's even possible!). I assume oil coming from both the rear seal and oil pan 1/2 circle gasket, but hard to tell. I'm interested to know if you or others have been down this road.

Thanks.

 

Atilla, for some reason, you reply didnt show at the time I responded to Vetteoz. In answer to your "why am I a glutton for punishment?" question, I already have the trans an flywheel out for a clutch replacement and want to replace all seals so I dont have to mess with it later on. Do you get about 1" of room when dropping the pan leaving the engine attached?

Thanks

 

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong(because I'm old and I get confused sometimes) but, I don't think the old 4 piece cork and rubber pan gasket will fit a one piece rear main seal block. Felpro makes a one piece rubber gasket for the two piece rear main block but not a four piece pan gasket for the one piece rear main block. Installing the one piece gasket isn't that bad. The hardest part is fishing it under the oil pump. With the trans out, you can lower the pan quite a bit in the rear to get the gasket through. Of course, I like to get the sealing surfaces of the pan and block good and clean which is harder with the pan laying on the crossmember, but it's doable.

 

Correct but OP is talking about replacing the 1/2 circle paper gasket that goes between the block and seal adapter; not the seal from the adapter to pan

 

Hey vetteoz. Yeah I get that but he also mentioned using a 4 piece pan gasket if he did drop the pan. I just didn't want to see him go down that road and get stuck.

 

I have a question about the rear seal i just installed on my camaro. I installed the seal and it sits flush against the adapter, is that the correct dept or does it go farther in? I have invested a lot of money on a nice clutch and i don't want to burn this clutch over again.