VATS is pissing me off. Its doing that won't start crap every now and then but will start after 5 minutes of cursing/waiting. The lock cylinder is all worn and crap plus the key comes out of the cylinder while the car is on and running. So I am replacing the lock cylinder but don't know where to find a VATS one. I found a couple places that say they have cylinders that are for my car but it doesn't say if its VATS or not. I found this cylinder that seems like its the right one but idk for sure. Its Standard Motor Products Part #US161L. Help please.....

 

Just bypass the VATS.

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats

 

Yeah I have seen a number of articles on this however I want to keep the VATS system. I like the idea of ignition kill and such to prevent theft. I have quite a bit of time and money invested into this car and would like the added protection VATS was meant for. Plus I have also seen that the bypass temporaily fixes issues sometimes. I just want to buy a new lock cylinder that has the contacts in it to read the VATS key. Thanks though for your input.

 

Bump

 

Bump

 

For anyone wondering, yes the part # above is the correct one for an automatic. Has the VATS contacts and dummy keys.

 

I replaced mine in January due to lost ignition key. BWD CS421L is the one i got from O'reilly Auto Parts for $55.00. It is a pain in the butt to get the wires down through the column without pulling the connection clip off imo.

As far as i can tell by looking, the part you listed is the correct one.

Any other questions about doing this let me know. I have a few pictures i took of the steps and what the column looks like when being torn down.

Also imo. VATS is far too valuable. Even though my car is beat all to hell and has a bullet hole... it's still a thief magnet. Broken into 3 times in 5 years. You'd think that peeps would know you can't steel this car without a tow truck!

 

Yeah man i got this lock cylinder from rock auto for like $25....has that VATS contacts in it and 2 dummy keys for cutting new ones. I plan on putting it in tomorrow and I am trying to gather info on how to exactly go about doing it. I read that I need a steering wheel puller and a spring compressor or something like that. If you wouldn't mind giving me some tips or pics on how to go about it I would really appreciate it. And yeah I would rather have VATS than not....I have a lot of hard work put into this car and a nice sound system that I would like to keep. And now I def know VATS works lol....sure did a good job of keeping me from stealing my own car at times haha

 

Keep in mind i have a '91 firebird but i would think they would be close enough. Sorry no pic of the steering wheel puller. I was in a hurry and tired of messing with the thing. =)

 

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Make sure these parts are snug or you'll bend them when you put the lock plate back on and have to new ones at a junk yard cuz they are discontinued.

I know that firebird steering columns are compatible through at least 1995 (I had to get another lock plate and the parts pictured).

Hope this helps or at least saves you a headache. There are other step by step instructions on here but i don't remember where they are.

OH! Another piece of advice. If you've never removed a steering wheel. It should pop right off. If it doesn't you'll bend a screw on the puller, this means it isn't on right. My wheel was very temper mental. One time it would come right off, another it was very stubborn. Remove the puller and reconnect it and keep doing that until it works with little effort.

 

Mackadoches, since you need to figure out the idle issue with the car it is easy to reprogram out the vats.

 

Yeah I know a lot of people like to bypass or remove it in some form of fashion, however i am probably one of the few who actually want to keep it. I just need it workin properly.

 

And thanks a lot 91specialk! The pics help alot. Ill go search for the instructions....hopefully my haynes manual has some in there too.