started a new thred becase it is a different issue then started out wondering if anyone has any advise on what i missed
the car is a 89 fourmula 5.7 TPI its has new fuel pump, filter, injectors, relay, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, MAF and ICM probable more but I think that covers the main parts. and the issue is that the car is not priming the fuel pump when first turn the key to on postion. I have used http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=35 to try and test all the wires and everything seems to work out fine. If i jump power to the fuel pump at the relay it starts right up as long as i turn the key right away becuase it doesnt hold the pressure (i think it drops down to at least 20psi maybe lower) I was thinking ecm but i used a test light and i get it to light up for the 2 seconds just still no pressure unless i jump it.

 

That is the correct behavior: that's the "prime" cycle; so the ECM and relay are all working properly.

Sounds like the wire from wherever you were checking (relay connector?), back to the pump, is defective.

Check the plug / connector under the back seat.

Hopefully whatever you did to "jump" it wasn't too drastically destructive and can easily be refersed without too much permanent damage to the wiring. ??

 

connectors good get power all the way back to the pump which is why i can jump the pump at the relay correct?

 

Yes.

However if you get your 2-sec shot of power at the relay connector, WITH THE PUMP HOOKED UP, it should still all work.

But it's possible that if you're using the test light WITHOUT THE PUMP HOOKED UP, if the relay contacts are shot, the relay could still pass enough current to light the light, but not enough to work the pump.

Might want to just do a "pre-emptive first strike" against the relay, and replace it. It's CHEEEEEEEP, like about $12, and doesn't take but a couple of seconds.

 

replaced the relay a few timesor are you saying rplace the harness?

 

No, I said "relay".

You say you "replaced the relay a few times".... care to go into more detail?

Do you have 12V on the wire that's supposed to supply battery to the relay?

What do you "jump" that makes it work? (from what to what?)

 

the ornage wire which is the hot wire has 12 volts and I run a jumper wire from that to the grey fuel pump feed wire which is at the fuel relay as well. if only takes a second for the presure to shoot up to 47 psi then the car turns over and runs fine.

I guess i dont know what detail your looking for, i have heard of faulty relays but theirs no way 3 in a row are bad. i hate dealling withe electrical but can normally find the issue.

I can also jump it if i run a hot wire from the battery or fuse box to the G terminal on the ALDL.

all fuses have been check so its not sometihng simple like that.

what issues could i run into if i was to run a toggle switch to just man run the pump to start the car like that (besides that fact that in probable wont pass a safty inspection in TX that way)

 

Electrical stuff has to be THE EASIEST part of a car to work on, even for an epsilon-minus sub-moron like me. Not sure how anyone of average intelligence could possibly have trouble with it?

A relay is an electrically operated switch. It has a coil, which when energized, moves an iron piece that has contacts on it. The contacts then touch (or break apart, or both), thus allowing a SMALL amount of power to control a MUCH LARGER amount of power.

The 2 second thing established that the ECM is doing its job. Eliminate the ECM from consideration.

The "jumper" thing, IF PERFORMED AT THE RELAY CONNECTOR, establishes that there's 12V reaching that point, the wiring to the pump is good, and the pump works. Eliminate all those things from consideration.

All that's left, is the relay, and possibly the connector itself.

See my signature for a helpful mental troubleshooting discipline. Concentrate on 3 important points: "the simplest", "fits all the facts", "the right one".

A toggle switch hack job would be a .... hack job. Totally unacceptable on that basis ALONE. Additionally, it would require that ALL of the fuel pump current pass through it, which would reduce the voltage at the pump, and probably burn up the switch or the hack-job wiring or both. I'd avoid that hack job at all costs.

Examine the connector CLOSELY. Make sure that it's plugging onto the relay terminals fully. Probe up inside it with your test light to verify that it's passing power when it's supposed to. Verify that the functions of its terminals match the functions of the original (2 sides of the coil, common contact, normally open, normally closed if there is one). Substitute some other ORIGINAL relay from elsewhere in the car for it and see if the results are any different.

Don't hack on your wiring.

 

ok thanks ill check it out