83 T/A CFI

I'm not sure where to start...this car sat for a couple years and after a fuel pump change and tune-up, I would start it about once or twice a week and let it idle or drive it a very short distance. It would start smoking shortly after being on, I thought it was grime on the headers so I washed the engine, smoke mostly goes away.
The car started stalling more during idle and during drive or reverse and now it barely runs/idles and there is more smoke. I checked the oil after running it and smoke came out from the dipstick...I'm praying the engine is not ruined. Any ideas of what to check?


Only code showing up is code 22, not sure if that helps

 

Code 22 is TPS low voltage, which means that your TPS signal circuit is shorting to ground. That would explain the stalling. The smoke from you dipstick may be blow by from worn rings or it may just be condensation from sitting so much. Engines need to be warmed up fully and driven from time to time to keep them healthy. Look for oil leaks from the valve covers and manifold end seals to explain the external smoking. Before you panic too much, I would pinpoint and repair the TPS problem, change the oil and drive the car to clear things out.

 

Ok, sounds like a good plan. Thank you for the advice

 

Actually, I just rechecked the diagrams for the TPS circuit. I was confusing the Chevrolet with Chrysler. Chrysler uses a diagnostic resistor to 5v on the TPS signal circuit. When the TPS is disconnected or open, the TPS signal will show 5v. On the Chevy, the diagnostic resistor goes to ground so that when open, the TPS signal will read 0v. Therefore, code 22 can also be caused by an open in the signal circuit.

 

IMO, drain the oil and see if it has any signs of anti-freeze mixed in with it; if that is the case, it's probably a blown head gasket.

If it doesn't look/seem like there is any anti-freeze in the oil, do a compression/leak down test on each cylinder. Since it had been sitting for a while, you may have a cylinder or two where the rings are not sealing properly. If that is the case, you may be able to drop some 3 in 1 oil, regular oil or spray conditioner (usually sold at auto parts stores like autozone for lubing the piston rings, sadly can't remember what it's called) into the cylinder(s) that aren't up to snuff on compression.

Hope that helps out.

 

I'm a little confused on the how to properly check the tps. I have been unplugging the harness and getting readings of 5.14 (car off). Also would a weak battery affect the tps reading? And where would I check to make sure the tps is not shorting to ground or open?

Tomorrow I will drain and check the oil.

Thanks everyone

 

The best way i know to restore compression, where the compression loss is due to sludging of the rings, is to perform a top end clean with a Motorvac Carbon cleaning machine and cleaner followed by an engine flush using something like BG 109 Compression restore. Or just add either Rislone or Marvels Mystery Oil to your oil for two or three oil changes.

To test the TPS, you need to check voltage at the dark blue signal wire with the key on, engine off. It should be about .5 volts. Then slowly sweep the throttle from closed to WOT and watch the voltage. It should increase smoothly to 4.5v. If it drops off(glitches) at any point, you likely have a bad TPS. Voltage to the engine sensors with the key off sounds like a short or improper connection in the ignition wiring. There should be no power to the engine sensors with the key off. 5v is the reference voltage to the TPS and other engine sensors. You should find this voltage on the gray wire with the key on. The black wire should be ground.

 

I just got my new TPS today and installed it, unfortunately the harness wires are all black...I'll figure it out though. Letting the engine cool off a little, then it's time to drain the oil and hopefully find out whats wrong.

Also right after I turn off the engine there is a popping and crackling sound, and the smoke mainly comes from between the engine and firewall. Not sure if that helps any

 

Changed oil with 1 qt of Marvels Mystery Oil and filter, and let the engine idle for about 5-10 min. Engine still smoking though. The idle seems smoother but TPS is still not adjusted properly, I will finish that tomorrow.

Also the drained oil didnt appear to have coolant, but then again I'm not 100% sure what that would look like. It looked just like dirty brown oil

 

Coolant, being water based, will settle to the bottom of the pan and generally run out before the oil. You may see it in a ribbon beside the oil as it drains. If the coolant is clean and green, it is very noticeable. If the coolant is rusty and brown, it's kinda hard to see.

 

I didnt see anything like that in my oil, so next option is compression/leak down test.

Does anyone know if a new battery will fix the TPS problem? Current battery doesnt hold charge and may possibly have a bad cell..

 

Bought new AC Delco battery and adjusted TPS properly so no more code 22
As far as smoke goes, when I let it idle today for about 10 min, it was smoking a bit, but then I took the car for a quick drive, probably about 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile, and when I parked there was no more smoke at all. I guess the Marvels Mystery Oil worked when I actually drove the car? Hopefully it stays that way..

 

Even a little oil past the valve guides on startup will eventually lead to a fairly large build up of unburned oil deposits in the exhaust close to the engine. Just starting the engine and letting it run for several minutes at a time isn't enough to burn these deposits. As your exhaust began to heat up, these deposits began to smolder causing the smoke. Then, driving the car, you burned them out of the exhaust system. So no more smoke. You will still get a little smoke from an old engine, especially on start up. Just watch your oil consumption. If it's not burning through more than a quart an oil change, it's not that bad.