TheGoatchrist

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forums and have some questions...

I picked up a 1986 berlinetta camaro a few months ago for cheap. Needs a lot of work. A few days ago I replaced the big upper radiator hose because it was leaking a little coolant. I filled her back up and ran it a bit. Came back and tried turning it off. Upon turning the car off it started putting loud and shaking like it was coughing haha. Like it was trying to start up again. Did that for a few seconds.

Today while I was running it around the block I heard a ticking noise and when I got home the same thing occurred. I only had it running for about 3-5 minutes. Turned it off and it happend again but lasted for about 10-20 seconds and it began to smoke a little out of the tail pipes. Smelled horrible and scared the hell out of me.

88 5.7 Iroc-Z

its dieseling, this isnt good for your motor, if you can avoid driving it do so to keep from doing more damage to the engine.

TheGoatchrist

So what is the fix? I've had some overheating, radiator problems in the past. This is probably the cause.

88 5.7 Iroc-Z

timing is off or hot spots on the pistons lighting off fuel, also I've heard that it could be issues with the carb but dont quote me on that because im not a carb expert

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Yeah thats REAL bad for the motor. Usually it means the timing is too advanced. I would also try MISTING some water into the throttle body (if its carbed). DO NOT POUR. MIST, as in spray bottle. That will help clean off any carbon deposits in the engine. It basically steam cleans it.

If you need to, running high octane/premium fuel should help too. It shouldnt be necessary but it shouldn't be doing it at all. Thats very bad for the engine so if you need to run premium til you figure it out, you do that.

naf

iTrader: (7)

in your case it's most likely that the throttle did not come off of the fast idle cam. with the idle speed high it will try to run on.

this is a 'new' vehicle for you. have you replaced all of the plugs/wires/cap/rotor yet? along with all of the fluids?

next get some carb cleaner and spray the outside of the carburetor, especially around the choke mechanism. when starting, press the throttle all the way down and the choke should snap shut, once started it should stay slightly closed and the throttle should rest on the fast idle cam with the idle speed around 1200 or so. allowing it to run for a few minutes you should observe the choke slowly opening until it is full open (90 degrees straight up) after about five minutes. the idle speed should still be high, but blipping the throttle with the choke open should allow the fast idle cam to drop and the throttle to rest on the curb idle adjustment screw and slow to normal idle (around 700).

Tune it up by replacing the ignition components then clean and observe the choke mechanism for proper operation before dickering with anything else, especially timing. Report back if you still have problems.

In the meantime shut it off while it's still in Drive.

TheGoatchrist

That was very specific but I am new to this. I have a few mechanic friends helping me but any info is much appreciated. I love learning about this engine!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Top of the carb forum:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html

TheGoatchrist

Fluids, yes. Other parts no. My friends dad messed with the timing a bit, noticed theres no plate on the harmonic balance that shows the numbers of the timing to line the line up with. Kinda did it by ear. The diesling isnt that bad now. Still happening. Yesterday I replaced the distributor and wires and she was running great then i drove it down the street and she wont turn back on. Shes dead.

Also, list me parts to replace that could help this. Brand new battery jumped it a little. seems like she wants to turn over but not enough juice. I dunno what to do at this point.

naf

iTrader: (7)

the starter won't turn the motor over or it will turn over but won't start?

TheGoatchrist

Just went down the street and tried it, nothing at all. no lights, no ticking, no turn over.

TheGoatchrist

tempted to tow it to a shop and let them deal with it :/

naf

iTrader: (7)

Check that all of your battery cables are tight, at the starter AND battery. All of the accessory power comes through the battery to starter cable. If nothing works it's either the battery or a connection.

TheGoatchrist

Ok I got her running!! The starting issue was battery terminal/cable related. I replaced all that now she starts up with a few turns. Now ive noticed recently shes not accelerating well. Punch the gas and no real kick. Something is wrong. Also, theres a small hose in front of the carb that is sucking in air with a loud whistling noise. Right above it, coming out of the carb is a tiny metal pipe (same size as hose) but it is capped with a rubber cap. I dont know if said plug was from that or not. Ive been told i should plug the hose off. It honestly sounds like the engine stops puttering a little with you put your finger over it.

The timing is still off. The plate to line the timing up with is missing. There is no plate to line the line on the harmonic balance with. (i think thats what its called)... any suggestions on timing the engine without one?

Last but not least, she overheats quickly. Ran her for about 5-10 minutes and the coolant tank started to bubble. The gauges are not working so I couldnt tell the engine temp but im sure it was overheating. Is that related to the timing?

Uhg, well I guess i should keep my head up... at least she runs!

TheGoatchrist

my finger is plugging the small hose that is sucking air in. No clue where it came from. Most of the cables are dry rotting and old and need replaced. The entire car needs rewired as well. I just want her to run right before I get help at a shop for all that. The acceleration issue is worrying me.

naf

iTrader: (7)

If that small hose that is leaking comes off of a tee that goes to the PCV valve, it is for the EFE. Goes to the smaller TVS on the water neck? Go ahead and plug it now.

Have you donked around with the timing and know it is not correct now? It should otherwise not change. If it has and is now significantly off, it can cause the motor to run hot.

Sure the timing tab is missing? You can only see it by looking through the opening between the water pump and the cover. You can get a replacement timing tab that bolts to the timing chain cover but there are two types to choose from. I'd recommend verifying TDC mechanically if you're unsure of the balancer's condition or its originality.

Oh and replace your radiator cap before assuming she's actually overheating. Most common cause of boiling over is an old, worn out cap.

wishoradream

I'd do what of the few others are suggesting. I picked up an 82Z28 a few months back.

1. Wires, new plugs, cap and rotor.
2. Correct me if I am wrong, but could it be unburnt fuel and carbon built up on the pistons? Maybe try a can of seafoam? (Never seen anything clean out carbon like that stuff has)
3. As for that hose, I honestly have no clue.... You may look on your intake, behind the carb, and see if there is a hose that is unhooked/unplugged. I know there are a few that run back there (vacuum lines)
4. I'd call around to your local salvage yards, or craigslist, see if you can run across a car that year with the wiring harness intact. (or if you are brave, try building it yourself off of what you have) I'm not electrical material myself though.
5. It's a little different, but I had a boat that would sometimes not want to die after you turned the key off, and the problem was in the carb, had it rebuilt and it never happened again (old 4cyl 79 johnson). Might wanna pick up a rebuild kit and do that, if nothing else you'll know that is brand new inside.
6. If you like learning about them, best way to do it is work on the thing! Cut out the shop, save some money, and learn about it!.
7. As for the timing, pull out the number 1 plug, hold your finger over the plug hole, and "bump" the engine until it blows your finger off. Thats number 1 piston up. Then set your distributor accordingly.

If there is anything I can help you with, just holler at me.

wishoradream

As for the overheating thing. Replace the cap, if it still does it, I'd look at your t-stat not opening up. I've had several problems with stuck t-stats. I'm not really sure, but I know head gaskets (being blown) will cause engines to run like ****, and overheat. Are you losing any fluid from your radiator? How does your oil look?

wishoradream

If that's a vacuum line, it makes sense if you plug it it'll stop sputtering a little. Those things can have people bringing you their vehicles quicker than anything. If they're not sure what exactly is going on.

TheGoatchrist

Radiator was replaced back in september with a newer one. brand new shiny cap on it. I messed with the timing a little but i will try to get in there and look around again for the plate. is it tiny?

TheGoatchrist

Found the timing plate and timed it as best i could! It was corroded pretty good. couldnt see the numbers great. Also plugged off that weird vac line. Seafoamed it and poured some lucas injector cleaner in it! She smoked like a retired ***** playing penny slots!

Still no power in acceleration. punch the pedal to the floor and continues to accelerate at its own gradual pace. Cant even do a burnout. She is starting and shutting off much better. Also I think the overheating problem is fixed, she didnt bubble much after i timed it.

TheGoatchrist

going to replace fuel filter tomorrow as well.

wishoradream

If you're up for doing timing again, and the plate is hard to see try taking out number 1 plug, and holding your thumb over the hole, have someone "bump" the engine with the key and when it pushes your thumb off thats TDC O degrees. Try it there and then retard/advance as needed. You sure you're getting fire to all the plugs? Compression test?

That seafoam is some great stuff, I figured it'd smoke pretty bad getting all that carbon out of it.

Doesn't try to die or anything when you stomp on it does it?

wishoradream

I had an old 4Cyl Johnson outboard, for a long time it would run fine as long as you didn't try to open it all up at once, when you did it would slowly gain speed, and rpms would slowly increase. (Not sure how similar those outboards are to v8's but I know the internals were similar). Tore it apart one day it had a hole in the head gasket, Also at one point it did that and part of the piston had broke off.

If you can try doing a compression test on it, and try that timing trick if you're up to it. A few degrees can make a difference

wishoradream

Can't remember if you changed em or not, But plugs wires distributor parts would be a cheap investment and may solve the problem too.

naf

iTrader: (7)

There's a tech article here on setting your AV tension. Go through it.

Also verify that your choke pull off is working correctly. With the vac hose disconnected from it, push the plunger and hold your finger over the vacuum nipple. It should stay in and slowly release the plunger after you remove your finger.

Verify that the choke is opening completely, if we haven't already. Should slowly open while the motor is running until it's fully open, straight up after a few minutes. If it's not opening it won't allow the secondary lockout tang to drop. (The tang keeps the secondaries from opening until the engine is warmed up.)

The finger over #1 won't verify TDC at zero degrees, just get you close. It's normally used to verify that #1 is at TDC vs. #6 when the balancer and timing mark are already aligned.

Oh and your car is over 100 years old!

TheGoatchrist

Im up for timing it again but for now it is ok i think. Yes it does sometimes recently try to putt out when i stomp on it. Today it has backfired a few times to. died on me at a stop sign down the road. My friends dad is convinced its all carb related now since timing is out of the way.

TheGoatchrist

ive heard about head gaskets being blown. yikes. compression test? maybe gasket is the problem!

TheGoatchrist

yes brand new distrib cap and wires.

TheGoatchrist

today i tried to replace the fuel filter but the line its connected to started to bend from it being corroded so i just tightened it back up and said forget about it till i get a new carb or something in the future. then tried to start it and wasnt tight enough, gas sprayed over the engine a little. then she started to backfire a little as i drove it down the street.

i noticed when i take the carb filter off and punch the gas revving it a little that the throttle thingy on the carb doesnt move much. its kinda stuck at 45 degrees. i could get a picture if needed.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Backfiring is most likely ignition. Pull your plugs and have a look see.

wishoradream

Did you happen to replace the plugs, when you did the cap and wires? I'm with Naf on this one, that sounds to be like your backfiring issue. He's also right, I wasn't thinking it won't be exactly 0 degrees TDC, but it might get you closer than you are seeing as your timing tab is corroded.

I'd run a compression test on it, simple test, and it'll give you an idea of what you got coming from each cylinder anyways. Someone you know have a compression gauge? or maybe rent one from autozone?

Toss a pic up of that carb thingy up if you get the chance.

If your timing is right, and your plugs wires and dist cap are new/good. Then it's very possible that it could be carb related. Any idea what kind of carb/CFM size is on it? how long it's been since it's rebuilt or what not?

TheGoatchrist

ill ask around some friends to help run a compression test. i did not replace the plugs just the cap and wires. pain in the *** to get to those plugs. if the compression test turns out wacky.. whats that mean? and whats the fix?

TheGoatchrist

first pic is that vacuum line thing that i just threw some tape over for the time being. second pic is an electrical thingy that was off i just stuck back on and taped it. third is just a pic of the carb as the engine is off.

this video cleared up a lot haha

TheGoatchrist

ok originally the backfire sounds came from under hood. i didnt mess with the engine at all today just removed back tail lights. ran her a little and the idleing is geting more gutteral and backfired a bunch out the exhaust when i touched the gas. uhg. my friend said his shops free to check it out monday tues and wednesday though!

TheGoatchrist

she backfired and smoked a little from the carb area and died after pressing the gas a little.

wishoradream

I'd def get those plugs out, it may be a bitch, but it'll be worth it in the end, if the compression is low, it would hopefully just be a head gasket, or your spark plugs not sparking enough, causing the fuel not to burn properly, I'd start with the plugs though. and do the compression test while you are replacing them, let us know if you take it to the shop and what they say

iroczjoe

Try retarding distributer timing see if that helps. i didnt read the other responces. it could be internal. if u have a bur that is getting hot it will diesel. id dirst try distributer

TheGoatchrist

Tried to mess with replacing the fuel filter again today after reading a little about it. Might be a little of the pressing on the gas and it dying problem. As I twist it, it twists the fuel line. I quit messing with it after kinking it pretty good. F!@#$

and suggestions on getting this bad boy changed?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Use a 1" wrench on the fuel inlet fitting before cranking on the fuel inlet line nut with a 5/8" wrench.

TheGoatchrist

I'll give that a try next time i fiddle with it. To chilly out now. I heard from a guy who restores cars that it could be a catalytic converter problem in rare occurrences. One of those dumb little things overlooked. I'll try anything to get her running.

TheGoatchrist

still waiting for the Pennsylvanian crazy weather to break to give me a warm car day! ahhh