Just curious. Can't imagine they would sell these with two different cams like they did back then based on auto or manual transmission

 

I should specify, a GM replacement long block

 

you might want to list the gm part number your looking at, They usually provide a breakdown parts list of components used.

 

Does anyone have the cam # of the hotter of the two cams used in those 305 tpi engines. I bought my roller cam from a local builder who removed it from the new crate engine before even using it. He said it was the hotter of the two from "back in the day"

The one # I didn't jot down on paper from my whole build was the cam number. I don't want to pull pump and cover to just check. But I have to believe it is the hotter of the two. Car runs way to good and healthy. Guy I bought from was a very smart and accomplished builder.

 

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/50-L...P9984C718.aspx

One like this

 

Doesnt look like they break it down, You might email scoggin dickey but it would be a real mild cam. If he gave you a cam does it have id numbers on it or can you measure the lift.

 

Oh yeah. It had the numbers on it. Like I said, I forgot to write them down sadly. I've thought about a lt1 cam swap but everyone says it's not worth it if you have the "5 speed" cam. Guess I'll just have to pull water pump and timing cover and check... Numbers are usually on the front face of cam right ?

 

Only thing it says is RPO LO3, wich is the low power 305 ci.
That someone would still make that peanut cam and stick in there is crazy but possible.

IIRC at some point the 5 speed LB9 had the same cam as the L98 used (thirdgens), wich is a little milder then the LT1 cam.

 

The 5spd LB9's always had the L98 cam for that year L98. Its the reason they had such a HP increase over the LB9/A4 combos.


When I was less knowledgeable I bought a reman 350. It was listed as a direct replacement for the L98.

Only it wasn't.

It had the 193 swirl port heads, and the L05 peanut cam. Car was slow as crap compared to an L98. The reman place still lists that same engine as a direct replacement.

So lesson learned, the hard way.

Honestly if I was even considering a cam swap I'd be making the jump to a performance cam that matches the TPI powerband, not going with some "OEM" cam that was too small to begin with.

 

Its even on this site. Though not in an obvious place considering most never check the tech articles section. The Tech section should probably get updated/moved so its more visible and current.

https://www.thirdgen.org/mods3

Look at the bottom of the list, the GM thirdgen cams are listed there.

 

I had to go trough that too https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/clas...ufactured.html

I hope the OP has more luck.

 

I'm not sure that chart is the most accurate, thought it ist still a nice reference.
I do not remember the exact lift, but I know the 91 LO3 had less then .400 in lift because I mesured it.
Though, I posted the LT1 cams I mesured https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...64-post48.html

 

Now I did see this tech article list, but it didn't reference what stock gm crate replacements would come with. Seems they just throw the cheap stuff in and call it a "direct" replacement for multiple applications...

 

It lists everything you need to know. Its your responsibility to check with whomever is rebuilding the long block. They will be able to tell you what cam was used. If they can't, then you should not do business with them.

I was ignorant when I bought my short block and i paid for it as have others.

Know what heads/cam are coming on this long block, or you may be paying for something you'll just be upset with. Lots of places don't distinguish between a L05 long block and a L98 long block, which is a pity because as far as the computer is concerned they are WAY different. Performance is hugely different as well.

 

I know it lists everything I need to know about an engine back then. I was under the assumption that you could still get a direct "real" stock replacement long block from gm. A true l98,lb9. After reading one man's story on here, I see that a stock replacement from Gm isn't a real stock replacement. Means those in the future will have to do their homework and not trust gm to give you the right equipment. My engine is fine. This thread was me thinking out loud. Wondering. I wanted to believe that a stock l98 from gm would now have the best parts in it from its generation. Not swirl ports and peanut cams

 

Swirl Ports were never on any true L98, and the L05 Cam was never installed from the factory in any thirdgen.

Which is why I say you have to be careful of any company saying their engine is a direct replacement. Its not.

Example: http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/ch..._1-engine.html

The above engine lists the heads as either being 810, 191, or 193. Which is BS because the 191 heads are 305 heads, I don't even remember what engines had the 810s, and the 193 is the L05 head. None of those are L98 heads.

The only L98 iron heads are the 083 heads.

So its buyer beware. The wrong heads/cam will make your car run like crap, perform worse than stock, and even fail emissions.

 

What's sad is how many threads are on here where guys have opted to buy a factory replacement long block versus rebuilding one because they felt it was easier/cheaper/or less down time. Whatever their reason is. Only to finish the swap and have check engine light on, fail emissions as you stated and suffer with poorer performance results. All the while thinking it was something they did wrong causing the problems. All because these companies just throw whatever they want in there and advertise a long block as a one size fits all. It truly is a buyer beware environment.

 

I have personally been bitten by this issue and it my car never passed emissions with the reman engine from the company I posted.

So trust me when I say it is better to just buy a shortblock or have yours rebuilt.

 

OK, stupid question time (which comes natural to me, being as stupid a person as I am):

What difference would it make what cam any of us here "think" some rebuilder puts in their product?

If it REALLY matters what cam is in your motor (it would to me, at least), either tell em what part # you want (better not be a GM one because GM charges so much for most of em that they'll SIGNIFICANTLY add to the price you'll pay), or buy it and put it in yourself after it arrives. Although if you're actually gullible enough to BUY a 305 short block, then maybe it doesn't matter so much to you.