Well i just finished rebuilding my 350 tpi and i want someone to tell me a HP and torque estimate

Here are the mods:

Block:
bored .030 over
Hyper pistons 9.8:1 compression
Eagle I Beam rods "sir"
Cast steel crank
Comp cam 12-256-4/ pushrods,springs and timing chain to match
65cc iron heads 193 casting ( yeah i know! couldnt find any other ones tho!)
Full 1.6 ratio roller rockers
ported and matched base manifold,runners and plenum
airfoil
gutted airbox
K&N airfilters
shorty headers w/ a 2.5'' collector, 3" exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler, no cat
AFPR (48 psi)
22lb injectors
MSD cap, rotor, and wires

Im just wondering because there are no dyno shops anywhere around where i live. and thanks in advanve

 

Probably about the same as stock... I don't see anything in there that should make any material difference to any of that except the heads which should lower it and the headers which should raise it, probably roughly cancel each other out... so, right near 200/275 at the wheels

 

full roller rockers 1.6 ratio? full exhaust?? it has a bigger than stock cam??? fully ported intake??? and your saying im making 200 to the wheels???

 

MI would guess an eazy 50hp/50lb ft over stock. You have a good balance of intake and exhaust mods. The rpm range might shift slightly higher but not as high as one would like.. the intake manifold's runner length doesn't want any more cam...it's happy to be a torque monster at 4000rpm. If it's dissapointing, a 100 shot of nitrous always puts a smile on my face.



However... If you cant tune it, what's the point of doing any mods?? Goodluck!

 

I had a similar combo though I ran a stock intake and 1.5 rockers. It put 230ish HP and 350ish TQ at the wheels after the dyno tune. Hope that helps.

 

how can i reach atleast 370hp out of this? im wanting to race my cousins evo and beat him! would stock 083 heads get me alittle closer?

 

did you use the 12-256-4 cam?

 

A good set of heads, vortec or aluminum, and a HSR. Otherwise it's a lot of work to get a TPI in that range. Check the boards, a lot of SoCal guys have some great numbers on a TPI.

 

i was thinking that i would be pushing well over 300chp with those mods. my base manifold has been ported to have 1.75 inch ports, the runners and plenum are matched as well.

 

Yes I was running that exact cam. It may be a bit small too for an expected 370HP.

 

My car has a maf so its going to adjust according to my mods. once im 100% sure im finished with my car thats when i will get a tune

 

should i change it to the xe262 or xe 268 cam later on then. thanks for the help BTW

 

probably +75-100 if you get it tuned

 

im alittle disappointed i guess i failed to fully research before i bought my parts. what a shame. was really hoping to get about 350-370hp untuned and 400 with a tune. but looks like im way off my goals

 

If you go through the effort of redoing the whole combination, a 268, great set of heads, hsr or miniram and you'll be a lot closer to your 370 goal. But you may then want to look at axle gears and transmission upgrades. Or you can boost your current set up with nitrous, small turbo or supercharger. Do you want to go that far or enjoy what you have? And it can't be stressed enough that a correct tune is vital to making any good numbers.

 

That EVO will kick your teeth in and bend you over bubba-style if you don't buy good aftermarket heads with a well matched cam and intake. That car has power AND AWD. Weighs a bit more, but thats not a big game changer. Xe268 is a baby cam.. That's not going to cut it.

Those cars aren't Gods gift to the world, but they're no slouch.. And most of the kids that own them crank the boost up for even more easy power (just like the Terminator crowd). You're going to need to be thoughtful on your planning. Suspension will be your best ally as well.

 

Holy Hell!!!!. You guys are amazing!!!. No dynosym,no tech investigation,really based on bench racing B.S.!!!. Got nothing!!!. And the O/P never doing a in-depth research before pulling the trigger to spend hard earned cash now second guessing on the verge of spending more.

Then the whole damm thing based on HP which is in rpm's rarely used in a street vehicle.

All Guesses......................................

This thread is useless crap.

 

well, that was kinda rude. OP only asked for a guesstimate.

 

i spent a good amount of time on my rotating assembly. a cam and head swap is pretty simple imo...i knew those heads were really going to hurt my performance but thats all i was able to find at the time. I AM NO WHERE near finished with my IROC by any means. its all about trial and error at first. i just found out about this site not to long ago.....but those RPMS will be seen on the track JS..........

 

if anything i think it will be a pretty good race but i know ill be on the losing edge. its a completely stock evo... suspension is already upgraded to with all polyurethane bushings KYB shocks and struts. BW 9 bolt 3.27 gears, my transmission is on its way to a probuilt automatics rebuild...but what cam should i have gone with? i talked to many builders and they said i should have been pretty close to 350hp? i guess i should have gone here first for some advice though

 

Are you getting a new converter as well? The big advantage those cars have are the fact they get a nasty launch right off the line.. especially on the street. If it's completely stock, then that changes things.. I still think you should talk to someone who specializes in cams and tell them what you're wanting and they will build something specifically for you. The cost is the same, so there's no reason to buy a shelf cam honestly. My cam is a custom one I designed BASED on a shelf cam. You can also do that if you want to. Really doesn't matter, just pick something that works for you and not a cookie-cutter cam so you don't end up sorely disappointed.

The 268 isn't a bad cam, don't take it that way.. but you can do better for the power gained.

If you HAVE to get a shelf cam, this is the one I'd recommend (provided you get new cylinder heads and a better converter, otherwise disregard this):

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2012&gid=288


It's all about the whole package. Right now before even thinking about a cam, you need to address those heads of yours. That's the most important part of the whole puzzle.

 

Good advice but the cam you show is a roller. I think he's running a flat tappet. Granted a roller is a better choice if he's going to spend a bunch of coin anyway. And then he can run any oil he chooses without any additives.

 

I sent my intake to high flow fuel injection and once i get my intake back im more than likely going to tear into the top end of the engine as well. will some L98 corvette heads give me what im looking for? and i dont have a roller block its a flat tappet..put it by the PO. the car is a DD by the way just wanted to clear that out and i do want to keep my tpi setup. i really appreciate all the criticism im taking right now though. even if i could break into the 340hp mark ill be happy with that. this car isnt going to be an all out racer since its a convertible im leaving that to my t-top iroc but thats a long ways from now. i want this car to be a cruiser and a low 13 second track car if that makes sense

 

Don't buy stock heads... by the time you get them prepped properly, you'll have invested into a set of used aftermarkets (or worse.. new ones). About the only ones worth using are Vortec heads, and most people want way more than they're worth.. that, and this negates your intake that you sent off.


I suggest you save up and buy the right heads the first time.

 

thanks for the advice guys. Well looks like its back to the drawing board here.

 

Go dyno it and see where you stand.

All else is just conjecture. Go get yourself a dose of reality. (whatever that turns out to be)

 

there are no dyno shops anywhere around here. thats why i wanted some guesstimates to see if it was worth going to a dyno shop and tune it. but since im not making power where i want it to be then i have to make some adjustments but that i know alot more im going to try a different route.

 

Not trying to hijack your thread but I do have a brand new set of aluminum trick flow super 23 (195 cc runners 62cc chambers with 1.5 roller rockers) that would get you much closer to your goal. PM me if interested.

 

its ok, anything that'll help me out here is welcomed, PMed btw

 

after the cylinder heads the biggest bottleneck in the tpi is the runners. lots of people make good runners for these engines, arizona speed and marine and accel being a couple of the better ones. i used the slp ones because they are a cast semi-siamesed design that has a lot of room for additional porting... smoothed them out, matched the plenum to the siamesed upper openings and ported the lower a bit, and got a nice seat of the pants boost out of it but cant tell you how much as i've never had the car dyno'd. the TPI is a torque monster and runs out of steam at the top end, so your best bet is to make the thing hook with chassis upgrades and a converter to get the jump on that evo. porting the factory stuff ought to add about 500 rpm to the useable powerband but wont get you making power up high, i've seen several tpi builds on here and elswhere and it takes a fair few mods to make the kind of power you're after. find a good tuner as well, that makes all the difference in the world, or you can try learning how to burn your own chips but be ready for a lot of trial and error and a steep learning curve lol

 

trickflows, comp cams 12-366-4, and some aftermarket runners. how would that sound?

 

LOOK.STOP PICKING BRAND NAMES OUT OF THIN AIR.SCR'S AND CAMS HAVE TO WORK TOGETHER OR DON'T.ONLY MATCHED PARTS BUILDS WORK.GEZZZZZZ!!!!.

 

Im pretty sure that Zrraf just posted that he has a pair of trick flow super 23s that he would sell me! so im not just "picking brand names out of thin air". pretty sure i gave a PN on the cam as well BTW thats the cam that was recommended by COMP. and aftermarket runners pretty much do the same thing.and thats why i asked to see if that was a good combo!! so i mean if all your trying to do here is bring someone down who is just trying to perfect their first build then there is no need to post any further. im 19 ive had my third gen for 8 months now im just trying to learning like everyone else here and theres actually been lots of people that have been trying to help unlike you....... well then you tell me what is a combo that would work together??? all you do is criticize but dont ever tell me what parts i should be looking for

 

Sweet setup. Those are some good heads right there.

 

I'm criticizing you because you have yet to figure out the SCR of this engine,let alone what it would be with 62cc chambers,then the DCR,and the quench with your deck height and pistons.That all ties in with the wt of the car,which T/C,gear ratios,tire size and then which cam.
Still waiting to see all the "research" you claim to have made.But none of it is the above.............

Decisions you have made on "facts" you know for sure and not on opinions.

 

ok well if you want to get that technical here you go

SCR w/ current setup: 10.94
DCR w/ current setup: 8.63
CR:9.75:1
2000 stall
BW 3.27
12-256-4 cam
245 rear 235s front

SCR W/ trickflows, comps 12-366-4 and .015 gaskets: 12.12
DCR w/ next setup: 9.16
CR:10.65:1
2500 stall
3.27 gears
245/235

maybe even T-56 swap w/ 3.73 gears
well there you go!

EDIT: THOSE SPECS WERE WRONG^
CR: 9.71:1
SC:9.7
DC:8.202
SCR w/ current setup: 9.7
DCR w/ current setup: 8.202
CR:9.71:1
T-56
Spec 1 Clutch
BW 3.27
12-256-4 cam 212/218 .449/.456 W/1.6 RR(.479/.486) 1500-5500 RPM
24540R18 rear 235s front

 

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

Not a big fan of shim head gaskets.They do need proper deck prep.Those numbers are pushing the limits on pump gas.Quench has to be off with those numbers.Poor flame travel.

 

Well i finished my build about three days ago! the engine specs are the same as stated above and its mated to a T-56 w/ the .5 6th gear. and holysh*t the car pulls really hard!!!! its really amazing actually!! and it still has the 3.27 gears! im shifting at about 5300 RPMs at WOT. the engine can breath much much better with the port work that i did to my TPI intake! but i just have to say WOW! taking it to the track in about two weeks to see what i run wish me luck.
3.73 gears coming soon oh yeah and also 150 shot of spray!

 

Still running the 193 tbi heads?? They really do work well with TPI.

 

yes i am running the 193s and i got to say the torque on them is pretty amazing. even around just cruising around town and shifting at around 2k rpms. i dont know why they get such a bad rep though? but they do die out 5500 rpm. but i mean thats TPI for you, its just a fun torque monster! I would say im making about 330 to the crank or so