1973 Chevy 350, getting a total rebuild, street use only, stock build. I noticed number 5 connecting rod bolt has about 1/4 inch of thread buggering. Not totally stripped. Before and after is ok. Would the rod bolt need locktite, or better to replace the bolt? This is only on one rod bolt.

thanks for any insight !

I could post a picture.........

 

Buy a rod.

Cheeeeeeper than messing around with buying a bolt and then having a rod resized.

And don't even THINK ABOUT the comparison in cost between buying one rod NOW, and the cost of repairing whatever happens whenever your proposed whatever-alternate-ethnic-engineering does what those always do.

Pics not necessary.

 

If I had to name the fastener which would cause the most damage to an engine if it got loose, it would be the conn. rod fasteners.

 

A friend of mine tossed a rod on the interstate. He pulled over and I picked him up to drive to the next exit to call a tow truck.

By the time we got back to the car it was fully engulfed in flames. By the time the fire department was there it was pretty much burnt out.

The rod put a hole in the oil pan that leaked enough oil on the hot exhaust to start the fire after we left to call a tow truck.

That is a worst case, but I seen that happen so I know it can.

Change the rod.

 

If the pistons are already hung on the rods I'd say inspect the rod, then install ARP bolts. You don't need to re-size the rods if you're careful. (This case assumes that removing the piston from the rod would likely ruin the piston).

If it's just a single rod and you haven't hung the pistons - see if you can get another rod with good threads on the bolt.

Do. Not. Cheap-out.

 

If you disturb the bolt, you need to re-size the rod.

BELIEVE IT.

By the time you buy A bolt and re-size A rod, you will have spent more than just buying a "rebuilt" rod at the parts store.

Go buy a rod, be done with it, and move on; RISK-FREE.

Don't take stooooopid unnecessary chances that put AN ENTIRE ENGINE AT RISK, over something that costs about $15. I suspect you can probably look up the expression "penny-wise and pound-foolish" on the Internet and find a picture of somebody doing exactly what you're asking about as the perfect example of how to live the expression.

 

Again, I wouldn't replace only the bolts UNLESS the pistons were already hung. If you have to press the piston off a rod to replace the rod, you run the risk of busting the piston - then your piston/wall clearance becomes a concern. Speaking from experience - you absolutely can replace the bolts without re-sizing the rods. It just requires some due-dilligence and knowledge.

 

Good machine shops press off rods all the time......................I'm just saying.

 

So having worked at a machine shop I agree wholeheartedly - but most of the time if you just slap it in the press and hit "go" you'll crack or deform the piston - it takes a lot of force to push a pin out. If you're careful and block the piston and support it carefully you can get away with it, but replacing only the rod bolts is MUCH less risky than removing and re-hanging a piston.

Just my .02.

Of course, a great way to avoid this debate is to run floating pins. haha.

 

You can't replace the rod bolts without re-sizing the rod.


Ps: he hasn't been back on the site sense he started this thread so we are probably waisting our breath.

 

In the words of Peter Griffin: "Done!"

 

Honestly I came back to this thread because I couldn't understand what would take count um 10 posts for a solution.

I don't know what kind of machine shop you worked at,but it sure sounds like one with very outdated machines.

From dry ice to heated fixtures are today's processes common place.No harm no foul removing and replacing press fit pistons.Been done that way for yrs...............

 

Nevermind. I already said "done" and walked out of the Matthew McConahey movie...