i have a 327(69 large journal) that needs rebuilt(sat too long) and the guy i got it from said it was bored but he didnt know how much, what is the best way to check the bore,and main size? also is there a way to check the cc of the pistons? they are a flat top with 4 valve reliefs,i have a set of lg4 305 heads which are a little better than the power pack heads it came with(i think) but im worried about too much compression with the smaller chamber and unknown pistons, could i run the summit 1103 cam with this setup or is it too much? and how do i go about choosing the right valve springs for this cam? crank and rods staying stock but getting arp bolts for bottom end, what is the max 'safe' rpm? high volume oil pump a yes or no? and will a stock bottom end hold up to a 100-150 shot? i can get a killer deal on a nitrous kit, thanks for your help and sorry if there is question limit per post

 

http://www.ehow.com/facts_7770470_wa...gine-bore.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micrometer


No to the HV pump

 

Flat tops w 4 valve reliefs are usually about +6cc volume.

Don't forget to measure the deck clearance (how far below the deck the pistons are at TDC); it DRASTICALLY affects compression. Expect to see numbers in the .045 - .050" neighborhood. About the same effect on compression as using 2 thick gaskets. Meaning, most likely there's no need to worry about the compression.

I'd advise against the ARP bolt thing; not because of anything wrong with ARP bolts as such, but rather, when you change rod bolts you MUST get the rods reconditioned, because the act of changing them both distorts the rod and ruins the alignment of the cap to the rod; and by the time you buy the bolts AND pay for that, you've spent about 95% as much as buying a set of cheeeeeeep aftermarket ones that are already better to begin with, especially for use w nitrous.

For that weenie little cam (that's "The Mild Cam", just one step less weenie than "The RV Cam", the 1102) any cam mfr's entry-level stock dia spring, with all the matching hardware, will work fine. Comp 981 for example, or the equivalent from Crane, Lunati, and so on.

As far as "hold up", that depends on alot of things; not least of which is, how often you refill the bottle.

 

In on one.Go get em with this 327 build.Watching the posts from the cheap seats.

 

i got the rotating assembly out now with a little cleaning i found the pistons have a marking reading 040 on the dome of the piston is it safe to assume the pistons are +.040 and go ahead an order that size ring set? this motor had around 5k miles on rebuild when it was pulled so the pistons are in really good condition so i just want to do new rings with this rebuild,the cylinders need a fresh hone from sitting so long, should i use a ball hone or a 3 stone hone? moly or regular iron rings? are the ring widths a standard size? or do i have to measure the pistons? i looked a little but is there a indication of main size on the bearings? or do i have to find someone to lend me a micrometer(dont know if part stores loan those or not?)

 

and for the cam im looking for the biggest streetable cam i can run without too much loss in drive-ablitiy, can anyone recommend something larger than the summit k1103 for this setup? i will be hoping to go to vortec or an aftermarket head inside the year so kind of looking for a cam that will be a good mate with new set of heads also, car is a 83 z28 with a t5 t top full interior 3.73s in the rear thanks for everyones help

 

Mic measure everything.Don't assume anything.Dial bore measure all the bores in multi locations.Your looking for any that are oval.Measure the piston skirts.You are by far better off having a machine shop hone the block.Measure the thickness of the rings.Stay away from race light tension type rings.Iron rings can and will take long to seat.The same case for the rods and crank.Measure everything.

Post what you have found.

 

okay so i got all the internals measured and the rods and mains have been turned .010 and the pistons are .040 over what should i look for as a final bearing clearance? i heard around .0025-.003 for mains a little less for rods is this correct? this is guna be a street motor (closest strip is 400 miles away) i am planning on doing new cam bearings too what is the difference in the kinds of bearings available? i got new springs for the heads im going to be using, is it necessary to get new valves too while doing this? or can i just make sure the valves are all in good condition, going with a melling standard oil pump,

 

so far i ordered rings, bearings (rod, main, and cam) , full engine gasket set, summit k1104 cam and lifter kit, cloyes double roller timing set, melling standard oil pump, a valve spring, retainer, and seal kit, assembly lube, and a can of chevy orange engine paint , is there anything else i am missing for this rebuild? thanks for everyones help