Ok so i have a problem car for sure haha. First the car will not charge it has new battery, new altinator, new battery to altinator cable and its still not charging any ideas on that? Next it has a misfire and not just a little mis its almost so bad its like a cylinder isnt firing at all. New cap, rotor, wires, new bosch 3 injectors, new air filters, fresh oil, new temp sensors, new intake gaskets from injector install. Any ideas on it left me know

 

You might want to do testing on the alternator. If you battery voltage is low the ecm changes injector pulse width. this will make the engine run poor and rich. Here is the schematic of the CS wiring.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...lug-where.html

 

Battery is at 12.2 volts and stays around there with the charger. I was hoping that the bad multex injector was themis fire problem but it was not

 

So i just got done changing plugs and doing a compression compression test was done cold, dry and with no fuel.
Results:
1=185
2=185
3=180
4=185
5=190
6=185
7=190
8=185
Lot of then were 185 so i checked with a second tester and got the same results. Numbers sound good to me how about you guys?

 

Yup, as long as they're all about the same and in some kind of "reasonable" range, which those are, then all is good in that dept.

 

Stupid question but do you have the alternator excite wire hooked up? On my 91 its the little brown one. Fan fuse was blown and I started freaking out as I was on the highway. Pulled over, changed fuse and all has been good for 2 years. Just a thought

 

Haha lets expand this idea here. When i got the car the fans were wired up custom and i have not had time to fix it. The are hooked up with a comoletely seperate custom harnessish thing haha. The brown wire from the altinator goes no where and the stock wiring for the fans is removed. So is that brown wire the cause for the issues then?

 

Probably so.

De-customize the wiring; put it back like it belongs. Go from there.

 

I plan on it but i have to buy colored wire for everything which is like 10 colors just in the engine wiring harness haha

 

Even just to charge hook it to ignition. Best to wire back to factory as sofa said.

 

So i just looked at the factory altinator plug and it does not have a brown wire... the pigtail i spliced in does have the brown wire and the altinator does have 3 contacts on it... was just looking at the wiring harness and theres so many ghetto spliced wires i may end up spending the 300 for a used one and re doing the whole harness which will suck. So since the factory plug had no brown wire what has happened?

 

No one knows?

 

Some g00b hacked the living DOG POOP out of it.

Whaddya THINK has happened?

Not much we out here can do about it; at this point, you can see what they did, and we can't. So you gotta figure that part out to some extent on your own by looking at what's there and not there. The FSM will be your best friend in this case: won't tell you "what has happened", but at least it'll give you a guide what you have to do to make it UNhappen.

Troll ebay and such for any 90-92 FSM; should be plenty close enough to set your feet on the path.

 

Apply ignition voltage to the brown wire to see if it turns on. That's what I've done in a jam.

 

So i started on the re wire of the fans and ran a temp wire from the ignition plug on the fuse block to the brown wire on the altinator. Charges at 14.75 volts. Now that its running at a higher voltage it seems to be running a lot richer.

 

Now that you have the charging system fixed, Disconnect the battery for 30 min to clear SAM. Take it out for a drive and see if the rich condition is still present. If it is ohm the injectors hot. If there stock multecs I wouldnt even ohm them call souhbay and get a set of bosch 3s 22#hr. Do you have a scanner or can you datalog ? If so look at the ect, map kpa, tps voltage are they normal . If not that will give you a direction to go in. This could even be caused bye a rip in the fpr but you would need to pull the reference line or check the fuel pressure.

 

Already running a brand new set of bosch 3s from south bay. I will disconect the battery and go for a drive today car still seems to have a miss and wont idel. Im pretty sure i need to set the base idel with the iac unplugged to fix that.

 

So i changed the ignition module again first one was DOA guy at the parts store was cool and gave me the next one up for free and i re set the timing to 6*btdc as it was set at 0* for some reason. Car is running amazing snapy throttle and idles in gear great but then in park/neutral its ideling high seems like its around 2000 rpm or so. Im going to check the iac and make sure its clean and adjusted anything else to check? The idle screw is not even touching the throttle at all so thats not the problem.

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak

 

I thought vacuum leaks usually caused low idles. Iv been spraying a can of starting fluid around with no effects. Im going to cap them all and add one at a time till it idles wrong.

 

A vacuum leak will cause a high idle, Too much timing say if you timed the engine with the est connected it would add to the idle speed but not to 2k. If the throttle blades are closed and the operating temperature is above 150 the iac will be moved in to 15-30 counts. The engine would be surging at this point. Your engine is sucking air somewhere, runner gaskets, base gaskets, vacuum booster. Its a large leak for sure. I have seen people swap the lower runner gaskets causing a 1/4 size hole and a huge vacuum leak.

 

I hope its not a leak on the lower runners that would be a pain in the ***... Ill spray some starting fluid around there to see...

 

Well theres your problem! The iac is stuck full open it seem. I took the intake off to check the throttle blades and the iac is port is sucking insane air so i pluged it almost all the way and the car idles fine. Iac bad or maby just dirty?

 

Turn the key onto the accessory position with the aldl jumpered a to b the iac will be commanded in. if you have the lower iac/coolant plate off you can see the pintle be commanded in. You can also hear it if the plate isn't removed you will hear a ratcheting sound. If you don't hear or see the iac moving in unplug it and test to see if its being commanded in.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sout...felter-tb.html

 

Lots of usefull info on that thread. Im going to change my iac and tps as well as the plugs for both because they are in horrible shape. Im getting annoyed with this... Car idles fine in park now but dies in gear...

 

Repinning on a few new connecter housings is the best way to repair the brittle plastic.
You can use lisle makes a terminal removal tool, you can get the housing connecters for a few bucks each on ebay bye packard delphi.
Its sounds like now the idle speed maybe to low now, There is a park neutral switch to act as adder in p/n to help with the transition for engine load.

 

I need to get something to read the computer like a live scan tool of a cord for my laptop because i know the tach is wrong in the car so i cant set base idle accurately at all

 

tunerpro rt , your definition is $8D, you will also need a 12 pin cable from aldlcables.com. or read the tach fix for 90-92 its pretty easy in most cases its just a bad resister on the tach board.

 

60 dollars for a cable that takes 5 dollars to make... holly eff i should have came up with that first... ill look at fixing the tach now. Would be nice to have all the tuning stuff because after the car is in good running condition it will be recieving some upgrades.

 

The tach fix thread is a horrible place lol. I need this car fixed asap and its stressing me out to no end that problems keep popping up

 

Your right a max232 is easy to build, Can't help you any faster with a 23 year old car and my dialup internet lol. I though the second post was helpful guess not.https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...meter-fix.html

 

You have been extremly helpful and i thank you for that. The car is being female. Fix one thing and another problem reveals its self or changes or returns...

 

You have to step back and give her thanks for exposing the issues now and not on the road

 

Ahhh now see theres a plus and yet still a minus if she broke down on the road that means i was at least driving her lol

 

Well timing is set to a perfect 6*, no vacuum leaks, idle air control valve is working, and tps seems fine. Yet still dies when i put it in gear.

Thats a video of it.