I have a 1988 iroc with 350 automatic. It currently is leaking oil from the back of the intake. I figure while I am fixing the leak I mine as well go ahead and do the cam. I am looking for a cam that will work with the factory computer set up. What cam will still give me the "cammed" sound. I want it to be a little choppy. I was thinking about the lt4 hot cam but I am open to suggestions. Is there a better cam? Is there anything else that I need to change while doing this for example rockers. Thank you for any input.

 

Suggest you just fix the oil leak

You're going to spend a full looong day to pull the intake to reseal it...then another few days for the cam...take a good look at the front of the engine...you'll see what I mean.

Lastly...a "choppy" cam, is not what you want...suggest you spend the time from a cam swap on a good exhaust system...my two cents.

 

if you're just wanting the cammed sound the hotcam will work, but you'll have to change your springs and retainers because of the lift. and change your timing chain while you're in there.

if you want something that will work on your stock springs, this cam will

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=199&sb=2

that will give you your choppy idle for sure. you wont get huge gains out of it unless you complement it with good headers, exhaust and a well ported TPI or better yet a stealth ram.

you'll want a custom chip as well

 

Thank y'all for the information

 

The ecm will be able to start and drive most cams, however, it will run like crap. I personally had a 355 hot cam HSR engine and my base starting tune was starting on the AUJP bin ran the engine run but it was horrible. Before 3000 rpm it was arguably ok but after that it was bad.... Don't run any cam that big unless you will have someone tune it. I would go as far as saying that nothing over 210 if you can't tune.

 

I swapped heads and lower intake in about 6 hours on a TPI engine in a G20 Van. Cam swap was about 2 hours more.

Resealing the intake is a 2-3 hour job, tops!!!

You just think a TPI F-car is a nightmare to work on.

 

IMO a stock car runs like crap on a stock chip. There is alot to be gained on even a stock engine from chip tuning.

 

I think this Elgin cam would run great in a TPI engine and put the powerband right where it needs to be. I built a 350 vortec for an Escalade with this cam and it really woke the truck up.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/m.../#.VGmEk2JMHFo

 

That is exactly why I bought a HSR, I got tired of dealing with the TPI in a doghouse. Actual time to yank his intake is probably dependent on how many of the Torx bolts (if applicable) get stripped out.

On the cam though, I would agree on exhaust first overall. It's probably the best thing you can do for these engines and if you want a better sound you can get it that way. Not going to be choppy or anything but will be a lot better especially if you want to leave the stock tune. Any cam that's going to be big enough to work well with the stock chip will not be friendly to the cam you want.

 

That's what I was getting at...2-3 hours to get it off, 2-3 hours to get it back on..factor in more time for those who do it once every few years...maybe...then the radiator has to come out, condensor rolled over,,,Timing cover...lowering the oil pan, plus getting the pass side VC off isn't a fun thing with the stuff over it.

I'd say if the OP hasn't done it, but has the ability, he'd best not make to many plans for the weekend