Mbiagioni10

Hi Everyone,

I recently purchased a 1985 Camaro Iroc with a 305 (TPI) LB9 (Not posi). I am excited about the car and I am looking to develop a 2-3 year plan for my car. Currently my goal at the end of year 3 is to have 350+ HP and 375-400 torque. Before everyone leaves the post I know I will need to do an engine swap.


Let me explain my experience and thoughts so that way you can offer feedback appropriately. I could be considered a beginner when it comes to working on cars. I know how to replace brakes etc. However, I am willing learn and spend most of my time looking online trying to learn about the 3rd gens.


From initial inspection I know the car needs a new exhaust and a tranny mount. My plan is to have this completed by the end of April 2015 (weather permitting). Currently the car does not have any cats so I plan on going to an exhaust shop and getting a straight pipe (unless advised otherwise).

I am realistic and realize I wont be going right to an engine swap I need to increase my skills. I want to focus on the suspension and do some of the “easier” upgrades to get more familiar with the car.

Once the exhaust and tranny mount are replaced, can folks provide advice on which areas I should focus on next? I want to build a strong reliable car (this will not be my daily driver). I want to upgrade parts that can be used when I do the engine swap. To simplify I do not want to double pay for parts in most cases (i.e. buy something to improve the 305 and then have to buy another part once I do the engine swap).


My budget for the 2-3 year plan is as follows:
Year 1: $2,000 - $3,000 (will have to replace the exhaust)
Year 2: $2,500 - $3,5000
Year 3: $3,000 - $4,000


Can folks suggest how I should start upgrading my car? Offer suggestions for an engine swap (multiple options would be nice). If you could offer a option where the engine could be swapped with no modifications needed, an option where little modifications needed and an option where major modification would be needed.

Links to any upgrades suggested would be helpful!!


I know this is a long post but feel free to inquire and ask questions.Thanks for your feedback in advance!!

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Since you are starting from scratch, here are my thoughts on it.

Keep the 305...bear with me. Super chevy built a 300hp 305..so here is what I would suggest. NOT swapping the motor at this point. Not yet anyway. But we prepare for the swap as you have already indicated that you want to do.

1. Headers and full 3" exhaust. This will run $1300-$1500 installed. Whetheror not you need emissions, Hooker 2055 Shorties or Dyno Don shorties are the best headers you can get for our cars. the 3" catback can be your choice. Hooker, Magnaflow, whatever, just make sure it's 3" and mandrel bent.

2. TPIS Miniram or FIRST fuel Injection system: $1200 (this is for now but transfers to bigger motor later)

3. Spohn (or UMI/BMR) but I prefer Spohn Sub Frame connectors ($400 installed by shop). This will firm up the body in an amazing fashion. Best non-motor mod.

4. Lunati 60102 or Equivilent Cam/Lifters for a 305 $400 (If you want to spice up your current motor for now)
5. Port your current heads and install 1.94 intake valves. $300ish (Will fee up HP on your current motor)
6. Install 3.43 or 3.73 gears and Posi diff with upgraded 28 Spline axles, solid pinion bearing spacer, welded axle tubes ($600-$1000. installed) (Or grab a diff and gears from a wrecked 98-02 car and axles from a 90-92 car for cheaper)
7. Rebuild your trans with kit from Dana at Pro-Built automatics (this is 675 for the kit itself but it's good to 600+hp). Have a shop to the rebuild work and install it yourself in the car.
8. Lowering springs, Hotchkiss, Eibach or one of the other manufacturers. Makes the car look and handle better.
9. Koni or QA1 Shocks and struts. Better handling. Much better handling.
10. Your choice. BMR/UMI/Founders/PA Racing/Spohn/Hotchkiss: Tubular Lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, Tubular adjustable panhard rod, Tubular Torqe arm. Tubular Transmission Cross member with Torque Arm relocation bracket (allows for mounting the torque arm on the cross member rather than transmission, neccessary for higher horse power applications).
11. Wonderbar from Top down solutions
12. Polyurethane bushings
13. Better Sway bars (Same companies as mentioned above for the rear suspension
14. Strut Tower brace

For your new motor, that's another story. We can address that later unless you want to now becaus there are SO many variables.




Why do I suggest this?

1. The intake will swap to a bigger motor later and be MORE than enough for anything you are going to put under it and produce power to 6000+ rpm.
2. SFC, for later, you will need this or you will warp your frame. Anyone putting down 300+hp needs this or you will break your rear hatch or T-tops from engine twist/flex of the body.
3. Headers and exhaust. One of the biggest limitations of our cars stock. this will free up 10-20hp by itself and will transfer to a bigger motor (anything up to 450hp a 3" exhaust is plenty)
4. the rear end needs beefing up to be made stronger. Once you hit 400hp motor, the 10 bolt is a grenade waiting to happen unless you do this. the solid pinion spacer, welded axle tubes and a LPW Ultimate diff cover will help run the car on street tires over 500hp.
5. Port the heads/install 1.94 valves: This follows right with number 3. These cars can't breathe because of restrictive environmental issues of the day. Open them up and you gain immediate HP.
6. All the suspension upgrades will make the car handle better and actually help you "feel" faster because of how it tightens up the car.


This will give you a solid 250+ horse power motor and the associated mods to handle it without ruining something.

From there, you can plan your uber motor build and go nuts with it.

Rolling Thunder

Congratulations on your purchase and I'm glad to see that your starting with a plan. This will save much pain and suffering later.

First off, I think we need to understand a little bit more about you, your goals, and resources. I also want to offer you some realistic expectations based on your skill level and resources.

So lets get to know a little bit more about you. Do you have access to someone who is more experienced than yourself who can help you? What do you have for tools (basic hand tools or everything up to welders and engine hoists)? You mention you want a 350+ hp engine but why? The point I'm trying to make here is two fold. First realistically a lot of people would probably be happy with less which will save time and money. The flip side is 350 HP may not be all you expected. Second, building a fast car isn't about building a fast engine its the whole package that needs to work together. If you have a 1/4 mile goal in mind, you will get a good boost by changing gearing and additional traction ect. Next, what about the rest of the car? Do you see new paint or interior work in your future? What about a stick shift trans? There is much more to building a fun car beyond the motor.

Now a word on what you can expect. I want to start by saying I want you to succeed and a big part of that is trying to warn you about some of the common pitfall you can fall into. 2-3k sounds like a lot but it really disappears fast when it comes cars. If your really serious about it, cars are not just a money pit they can be a money black hole. Like scientists will study it someday to try and understand where it all went. For example, your total budget runs up to about 10k. A new good quality performance engine will run over 4k by itself. Many projects fail simply because people get in over their heads. Cars get torn apart without knowing how or having the funds to put them back together. Even worse still is putting something together that frustrates you because it never runs right or breaks down because it wasn't assembled properly. Start only what you can complete in terms of budget and skill.

All that said if I were you, I would focus on two things in year one. First really go through and assess the car. Go though the chassis inspect for rust make sure this is a project worth investing in (10k is no small sum). Check the brakes, steering, suspension, a full tune up so on and so forth. You ask check for what or how? This is why well start here. You'll get the car up to 100%, learn a lot about how to work on these cars (from a reading documentation standpoint as well as a physical stand point), and you wont go over budget by addressing the things that need fixing first. Beyond that, I would do maybe a set of headers, 1.6 roller rockers, corvette servo for the trans, build your own cold air intake, and some show and shine type projects. Easy stuff to give you a feel for what working on cars is all about.

In year or two if your still with it and have made some good progress then I think its time to look at engines, transmissions, and rear axles. Engine swaps are not as bad as they look. It's more about patients and taking good care to label where things went. Being that its fuel injected, its not exactly going to be just a bolt this in affair (not that its overwhelming either). I recommend starting with something simple like an L-31 truck engine. They are basically a direct bolt in replacement. New and used they are plentiful and cheap. Great quality engines with the later style block, four bolt mains, vortec heads, and a factory roller cam. HP is in the mid 200's but it would be a substantial bump from where you are now. This is also the time when you would want to at least rebuild or replace your trans and swap or re-work your rear axle match your goals.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

IMHO I recommed doing headers, aftermarket Y pipe and full 3" cat back aftermarket exhaust.

Then weld in subframe connetors, poly trans mount.

Drive car like that as you do more suspension and brake work and save up for your engine swap.

For your engine swap, I would look for a good used 96-2002 vortec L31 350 from a full sized truck/SUV/van. You can pick them up with less than 150K miles for around $800. Those engines stock had 255 HP, vortec heads and roller cam. Do a cam swap, summit stage III vortec carb'ed intake, and a 600 cfm carb and you'll have your 350 HP

Mbiagioni10

Appreciate the feedback here. With upgrading these things does it pose a threat to the other factory parts?

I have shorty headers and I will be getting a new exhaust (headers back) in the next month or so.


Also do you have the links to those upgrades you mentioned?

Thanks!

tedpants

I'm in a similar boat as you! I haven't found the FIRST intake very easily, but anything else he just mentioned....Google it! www.Summitracing.com www.jegs.com www.top-downsolutions.com etc. Shop your brains out

208963

I also would like to thank everyone for their input on this thread.
I too am going through the same thing (decision wise) with my 86 iroc.
I was torn between rebuilding the 305tpi or going the 350 carb route.
I have built a few second gen fbodys ( always for speed) but never a third gen and was wanting to build a nice little street cruiser.
This thread just gave me pretty much all the info I was looking for.
Also good luck on your build Mbiagioni10

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to the 1986 club! TONS of great info here!