I've read some of the threads on "how" to do it, but any techniques that will help get it done "easier' that some of you have used?

Also, how long should it take me, couple of hours?

Do I need to drop the steering wheel? Do I need to pull the cluster? Should I pull the top of the dash off?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

If you are able to get to the cluster from the bottom and depress the clip shown below you won't have to remove the cluster, dash pad etc. I might unbolt it at the engine bay location first in case you need the slack and/or forget later on. lol

I've done it before on Camaros, but a Firebird should be the same. The caveat is that you can either see it or feel it, but not both at the same time. So get a good idea where it is and reach in (probably with a screw driver etc.) to depress the clip. Make sure that there isn't tension on the cable until the clip is pushed in or it won't release which can lead to frustration. It's similar to a Chinese finger trap if you know what I'm talking about.

After you clear the cable from the cluster it should be easy to unbolt and replace. The new cable should just plug back into the cluster.



From this website:
http://1984transam.blogspot.com/2012...t-cluster.html


First time it could take hours, second time 15 minutes.

 

I get to the back of the speedometer to release the cable through here:



It takes a bit more work to drop the column but it beats fighting with it.

 

I will probably try this first. I really dislike standing on my head under my dash. lol

 

Before complete replacement, you might consider thoroughly cleaning both the cable housing and the cable itself. Directions below:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...eedo-woes.html

JamesC

 

My old cable was completely snapped in half and had to go.

I actually got it swapped this weekend, took maybe 3 hours total taking my time. the hardest part was actually getting it back through the grommet on the firewall. That took the longest.

Also, on firebirds, at least mine, I only needed to drop the lower dash on the drivers side to get to the back of the speedometer. The biggest obstacle I ran into was there is a giant wire harness that runs directly under the speedo housing making almost impossible to see where the cable attaches to the speedometer but I was able to easily reach my fingers up to release the latch.

Everything works, except the gauge now chatters a bit at lower speeds. It doesn't make any sound, just shakes a bit, bouncing up and down but smooths out a higher speed.

 

Probably a bend or lubrication issue of some sort.

JamesC

 

With it being a new cable I didn't think I would need to lube it.

As for bends, only one tight one coming off the transmission. After that it's an easy long one up to the firewall.

I can pull the cable out far enough to lube it from the trans side right?

 

I've never had need for a new cable, so whether they're lubed or not, I couldn't say. My philosophy is 'easy' first. That said, I'd fiddle with the bend off the trans (mine has a curved alum guide that the cable lies in to assure that the bend isn't too severe). From there I'd check the cable. You might be able to pull it out far enough at the trans to determine whether there's lube or some sort or not.

JamesC

 

Mine has that aluminum guide as well. I transferred it to the new cable.

So i can pull the cable out from the trans side to Lube it?

What lube should I get if it needs it?

 

Wouldn't know why not.

Directions and recommended lube in the link I provide above.

JamesC

 

To remove the inner cable from the casing to lube it, it has to be removed from the speedometer end.

Be careful not to get too much lube at the speedometer end. You don't want the lube to work its way into the speedometer head.

 

Alright...I guess its another project for this weekend then.