I got it running awhile ago. It wasn't running 100%.
Put the scanner on it and seen that I had a code 43(faulty ECM or knock sensor). The car ran, but it would pull 4-20 degrees of timing, it would spit and fart, but at low throttle it was ok.
I went for a cruise last sunday, and on the way home it stalled. It would not start again.

I tested the knock sensor and it is good, but a connector was disconnected. So I thought that may fix my problem, nope. Still won't start.
Have lots of spark(at the coil and each individual plug).
Have fuel pressure(40psi) and can hear my pump priming.
The fuel injectors are pulsing (have a noid tester)
I took the valve cover off and made sure that my timing was ok (and each rocker lifted and moved while turning the crank)(rotor was pointed to #1 and the balancer was at #1)
I took each plug out, they were moist with fuel, so I cleaned them off. Took the injector clips off so the engine would not split out fuel.
Turned over the engine several times and nothing.

Then I started retarding the timing (a lot), it would sputter, but not ever fire.

Tried another ECM and another PROM, and nothing.

I bought a set of injectors and tried them and still nothing.

Then I noticed that my fuel pump would prime (get up to 40psi) and then slowly lose pressure to the point of getting down to zero within 30 seconds.

Would this indicate a bad fuel pump?
A bad fuel pressure regulator?

 

Are your plugs wet? It's possible you're really flooded and are having issues due to that. Push the accelerator pedal all the way down and see if it acts like it's going to fire any (flood clear mode.)

If worse comes to worse and for some reason you don't think you're getting fuel (you should if you've got fuel pressure and you're getting pulsing with your light) try spraying some carb cleaner in the throttle body and seeing if it kicks over.

Plugs will tell a lot of the story, I'd pull 1 or 2 first.

 

It may not be producing enough volume due to a worn impeller or it could be a bad fpr allowing fuel to pass by.
Sometimes the diaphragm inside of the fpr will rupture and will leak into the vacuum line attached to it which makes it easy to check. You would first try to start the car, and then check for fuel in the line. This would be easier to replace as well.
Otherwise, if it's not producing enough volume then the pressure might pump up to the correct pressure initially, but would drop while trying to start/run it because it can't keep up with what the engine needs.

This probably explains it better than I can.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oXLUqE4Sf0

 

I'm gonna go with fuel pressure regulator. Scorpner made a good point with the worn impeller, but the dramatic loss of pressure seems more like a weak or ruptured diaphragm in the regulator.

 

If you prime the fuel pump and it slowly loses pressure, I would suspect that you have a leaky injector\fuel rail side O-ring, or as irocracer07 said, fuel pressure regulator.

 

Edited, re-read. Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator, also make sure your fuel rails aren't clogged. When you have the rail out to check the regulator make sure you can blow through it with compressed air. Also the fuel pump should hold pressure for a while once the car is off, there is a check ball in the pump for this. Could be the pump too, easier to check the regulator first though.

-Jim

 

Put the stock FPR back on and now the fuel pressure stays up and constant!

But it will still not start.

I may have fouled the plugs so I am gonna put new ones in and see if that works.

 

Sounds like things are headed in the right direction. Hopefully the new plugs get her fired up for ya

 

Tried new plugs and it still wont fire

Here's a vid, it sounds like only a couple cylinders are firing.


I took every plug out, inserted them into the wires and put them on top of the plenum, then turned the engine over. Every single one showed a spark

I'm confused

 

Did you ever take the distributor out?

 

Either, the distributor was out and you put it back in 180 out, or the firing order isn't correct. That's my guess after hearing the video. Check all the wires to make sure none of them are burned. Them put the wires back on double and triple checking the firing order for accuracy, and the try to fire her up.

 

I have taken the dizzy cap off several times since the engine died on me.
I have not moved the dizzy other than to retard or advance timing.

 

I'm inclined to agree, that sounds like the wrong firing order.

 

Triple checking the firing order with the wires on the dizzy and plugs.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

I put a new dizzy cap and rotor on (the bolts holding down the dizzy were starting to strip on top so I got a new one)

Took the dizzy cap off, verified the rotor is pointing to #1.
Verified the balancer is on TDC.
Took the valve cover off and verified that the #1 intake rocker is not depressed.

It did start for about 3 seconds but as soon as I hit the throttle it would die.
It will not idle above 400rpm though.

I have my laptop hooked up thru the ALDL, and it's not showing any codes or anything wrong that I can see.

Still stumped

 

Unplugged the EST and it will not run that way either.

 

I did a compression test of all cylinders.
147-150 psi
Did it cold with the throttle blades open

 

Also squirted fuel into the throttle body and that didn't help

 

How strong is the spark? Really not being a jerk, but I have to be thorough. The car is wired up just like this diagram?

 

If your spark is weak you could have a problem in the distributor itself. Again, not trying to insult you in any way. Just gotta be thorough..

 

No insult taken!
Thanks for your help!

Yes, I have the same firing order.

As for spark, this is what I am using.

The spark jumps it ok.
I put it between the coil and dizzy, and between the dizzy and plug

 

let's take that out of the equation for a minute. Just pull a plug, pop the wire on it and ground it on the exhaust manifold and have someone crank it while you visually inspect the spark. Let us know what you see.

 

I have did that before.
I pulled all 8 plugs out of the head, put them back into the wire, and rested all 8 on the plenum. I did get spark.

But I just found something out!
I have an extra blaster SS ignition coil (the terminal is broken but I put a jumper wire and connected it to the dizzy) and tested the resistance, and it tested 4.0 ohm
I tried the resistance on the coil on the car, it tested 2.4ohm.

Then I hooked it up and the engine ran! It's late here and my kids are sleeping(garage is below kids rooms) so I didn't want to run it that much.

The weird thing is, I used my spark tester on both coils, and the spark looks exactly the same !

I'm gonna go get a buddy's blaster ss coil and see what happens.
I think I got it figured!

 

Sounds like you're headed in the right direction. Crossing my fingers that you get her fired up soon

 

Put in a new MSD Blaster SS coil and it started!

Problem solved!

Thanks for your help iroczrracer07 !

 

Sweet! Not a problem. Glad you got her running