Thought I'd share my 396 sbc build. It's a 1pc main seal block with billet splayed main caps. JE pistons, pankl rods and a (I think) Howards Racing Components 3.875 stroke crank. I got this as a left over 383 from a guy who didn't know what he had. turns out it's a 396 not a 383

I pulled it apart to inspect it and to freshen up where needed. Didn't need anything bút will do new bearings and stuff. I refinished the bores with a bubble gum hone just to be sure. The bores measure out just fine with no wear at all. I have a feeling this thing only did a few passes or maybe just dyno time.

The heads will probably be Dart Pro1 Platinum 200s, the intake is a Finnish made Unik racing piece. It has no idle air provisions but I may plumb the IRs for that and hook up a remote IAC manifold with GM IAC valve (basically a small aluminium block with modified TB IAC housing bolted to it and plumbed to all runners)


Headers are Hedman Hustlers btw, have a similar set with all primaries separated in 2" and stahl pattern but I'll use these as they are 1-3/4 primaries.

Still debating what cam to use. Have a TPIS ZZX but may get something a little wilder in the .65 lift range. I will use solid roller lifters then, have a set of comp cam solid rollers.

Still debating on whether to set it up as dry sump or not. It is plumbed for a valley scavenge line.

Still pondering on what I will use to run this, I may attempt to use a 77730 weatherpack ECU but not sure if it can be set up adequately for the stack injection without having idle air issues, mixture problems and knock control issues because of the solid roller. I could end up using a haltech ecu or something to that extent although I think the EZ EFI has a setting for an IDA inglese system that might work.

Pics

 

Sweet score. I think that intake set-up is killer. Dont see much like that here in the states but have always thought it would be sweet to have/try. Those dingle berry brushes rock! Work great to freshen up cylinders/knock down any high spots and gets that cross hatch dialed in. Who ever built the engine, looks like they knew what they were doing. I see key things done to the block. especially for a stroker. oil galeries on crank look like they were champhered and polished as well. (obviously, looks dont mean squat, but this looks great) I have TPIS's zz409 in my stroker and love it. pulls hard. They are great guys to work with and are very very smart.

Question? How do you know its a 396? Bored .040 over or more? IMHO, From what I have read and been told, on a stock sbc block, boring more than .040 is really pushing cylinder wall thickness to the max. Especially with what power you are going to get. Might not hurt to have cylinder wall's sonic tested for added insurance sense its apart already.

What kinda numbers are you looking for, +500whp?

Also, Are those some Oldsmobile heads in the back ground?

Keep them pics coming!
-Dan

 

It's .030 over so 395.4 but 396 just sounds better I guess Looking for high 500s yes. The heads in the back are Mopar LA heads

I've been using those bubble gum hones for years, I swear by them if all you need is to break the glaze and not go up a size.

The block has been gone through indeed, it's stamped hendrick on the stamppad. Used to have standoffs, has threaded holes everywhere and apassages opened up. The guy I got it from probably had his hands in it at some point because he mixed up the main studs, the longer ones for the tray not in the right position etc.

The crank has large fillet radii, it's knife edged lightened, gun drilled, chamfered oil galleries etc. Also is completely internal balance with mallory metal welded in. Only thing I wonder about is why the lifter bores were milled off, probably to lube flat tappets in there because of class restriction. This is a roller block but the dog bones won't work now.

 

Hmm. Yeah, I dont know why else they would have. Something to due with the lifters for sure. A good shop can machine/index in new bushings in the lifter bores... but, your just going to run flats anyways. Very cool. The story's engines can tell us. Sweet find.

 

Any ideas on what you are going to do with it?

 

Still working out ideas and test fitting stuff. I was thinking about doing a front distributor conversion and an old school correct a cap distributor for a clean look. I will need some spacers for the waterpump as it does not clear the comp 2 pc timing cover even after milling a portion out. I will need to cut down an allen key to replace the short front drive shaft to the pete jackson unit.



I have a whole bunch of weird unique and unusual parts that I could end up using.

The T ram is too small for this engine so I won't use that but I also have an ultra 4 downdraft weber intake, a NOS crower sbc injector, a custom ribbed belt druve and so on. I'll see what I can use and what not. I also got a new project car because I "only" have 4 projects going on right now LOL. It was too good to pass up. a 77 Formula 400 manual shifter. Leaning towards tricking it out mechanically and leaving the worn paint as is. I may throw he 495LSX in that one and use the tr606 and swap in an IRS so I won't have to mess with the driveshaft setup on that trans since it's not sliding and is not suited for a live axle without getting a slip shaft. In that case I'll stick the 396 in the 82 TA or may just get an ls2 or 3 for it. Hoping to finalize a deal on some Dart PRo1 230cc heads today, they may be a little large for a 396 but not if it spins to 7500 rpm

 

So you run the dizzy off the front nose of the crank, just like in that pic? You sure doo seem to have a neat pile of goodies. Honestly, I havent seen that before. The conversion. And its just some guys crazy idea that he cooked up and made work. Pretty cool.

(EDIT) Oh, i see now, the dizzy bolts in series with the WP. Back of dizzy shaft er where ever, is hitting timing cover. Where does a guy get something like that? What type of racing/engine?

 

There is a gear stub bolted to the front of the cam. http://www.google.com/search?rls=en&q=small+block+chevy+front+distributor...

from the Fiero guys...


buy a Summers Brothers kit here

 

Those are integrated into the distributor cover (use a special gear drive cover that can also be used to drive a fuel pump or waterpump directly, typically boat stuff). The one I have is a pete jackson, this one. I have a kinsler one (modified enderle) that is both a front distributor drive and fuel pump drive (for mech fuel injection), it uses a small mallory distributor. I'll get some pics when I can

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960s-NOS-PE...-/400809741956

I have the plug for the rear to drive the oil pump and all the small bits and pieces that bolt to the cam.

 

Thanks MoJoe!! You duck hunt?

 

You're welcome. No, no ducks. But, I have shot some trap.

 

Got some more done. May end up converting to dry sump. I have so much spare stuff and thus once was a dry sump block. Will have to modify the valley cover because it's too wide for the 0 decked block. Also painted the stacks. Im going for the flat black look on this one. Pics are in random order.

 

I decided against doing the front distributor for 2 reasons, the timing cover I have (and I milled it for it) turns out to be the one for my old blower setup in that it has a BBC snout sized seal. Ooops I'll get a new cover then since all I have left is some stamped crap and a couple of milodon gear drives which will not work with a factory roller cam bolt pattern.

I bit the bullet and decided to go dry sump. Rear main cap has a support girdle now that also closes it off, the inside is threaded for a plug also. Got a peterson dry sump adapter installed on the filter pad (after fixing the 2 bolt holes with a set of time serts, the holes were rethreaded an oversize thread and that won't work with the plate and the allen bolts supplied)

Put studs on the heads while I was at it.



Swapped the rockers for a set of 1.6 Harland Sharps I had lying around. The others are 1.5 crane rockers









I have pretty much everything required for the dry sump setup including the oil pan, scavenge filters, lines a dry sump tank, auxiliary heaters (internal and blankets) external oil pressure regulator, an adjustable vacuum valve and a bunch of other stuff.

As for the engine itself, I still need a cam and lifters (and pushrods), it turns out I can't fin my vertical bar lifters and my horizontal bar pop up style lifters will not fit the block without machinging the tops of the lifter bores. They are tall roller block bores partially machined for vertical bar liftsrs...so I have to get some new lifters for it (crap and here I thought I could just rummage through my parts bin)

The waterpump is a model with side outlets and I will use 4 corner cooling on this engine. It's also equipped with screw studs to preload it up to tension the belts with it (the small set screws on top of the pump mounting flanges)

 

Looks awesome! Zzx is a nice cam. 1.6 rocker on them would work well

 

I was leaning towards a custom cam, 260ish dur, 640 lift, 108 LCA... but I may just run the zzx first since I have it

 

Hyd roller 260 duration? Thats huge lol zzx will do well for now. I agree it would like a tighter lsa

 

solid roller, dur @ .50

 

A little more progress. Found out I'm flat out of 2pc oil pan gaskets and even more annoying,my headers don't fit with the pan. Crap, and I have 2 sets of these (2 different sizes, 1-3/4 and 2" primaries)

Also, the pan and rear main adapter need grinding to properly fit. Plugged the dipstick hole. A knock sensor just barely fits.

Still need to install the rear main support strap annex block off plate but I need a set of longer rear main studs for it. Anyone got 2 studs lying around? I don't have any left. Kind of crappy the correct ones didn;'t come with my pro gramm strap (the main caps are pro gramm also)


Further annoyances include the fact that this block has been 0 decked and the valley plate doesn't fit. Need to angle machine both sides to narrow it by 3mm each end. Nothing is every easy. Oh...and I am missing my large bad with all the filters and lines for the dry sump pump. This stuff comes off the engine of my 82 road race corvette and it was all complete. I guess 14 years of crap lying around misplaces stuff.

 

lets bump this

 

Dry sump pan won't fit, (headers) so new recourse... Barnes hybrid in tank dry sump system



IT's this kind of pump. I have 3 of them along with spare sets of shafts, gears and gerotors

 

This is my pump






Tried the sdtahl pattern adapters, had to modify them to clear head studs



Had to notch underside of headers for same stud clearance... then, they bolt down (the big black ones) bjut the primaries to collector are not as low as on the silver ones They run right into the 2 fittings on the side of the oil pan for the dry sump pump. Well crap... now I have to either run the smaller 1-5/8 1-3/4 stepped headers withojut the stahl adapters or run these and modify a tube or fabricate some fittings for the pump that clear and insulate them from direct contact with the headers. Why ios nothing ever easy.

Final torqued my rod bolts (still had to do the final degrees tq) and bam, my drive attachment broke. Everything is not working out...time to pack it all up and take a break. Ugh!

 

Instead of milling down the original valley plate I decided to try a dart cp1 valley cover, and sujre enough it fits like a glove. Just have to drill it for the throttle linkage pedestal





Decided to slightly modify the big primary headers, and sure...after a little persuation it fits. I'll have to heat sleeve the 2 dry sump lines but nothing I can't get done



Fits pretty tight LOL






Modified stahl adapters to clear head studs

 

Well, had to get a dual sync distributor and found out I needed a tall deck distributor with adjustable collar so that the base would clear my stacks (mounting flanges)



The ugly plate will be bleaned and painted (it's the magnesium valley cover I used instead of the unik racing one)



Sure is tight, just doable. Maybe I will fab some new stacks that incorporate a filter base but there is very little room. Might have to resort to using a set of stack filters. I wanted to use a sprint car type deal...guess it's a no go

 

Is there any shorter distributor you could use? That #8 runner makes it pretty tight doesn't it?

 

No, the shortest one I have, a mallory unilite is even more troublesome as the base hits the flange for the stacks. It's tight but doable. I may end up fabbing new stacks that are stright up with siamesed entry bells.

 

If you can fab your own peices, there's certainly no reason you can't raise the stock tops to clear the dist. You can even machine the tops to accept the Sprint type filter.

Your ability to fab parts as well as your collection of parts makes me green with envy. It also strengthens my resolve to keep moving toward my own goals.

 

I have been thinking again about using the front drive distributor unit. It will not clear my 6" (and a little_ ) ATI damper but I thought about using an ATI LT1 snout. I think the Corvette has a longer one than the F body... or it was the other way around. I'll have to figure out which of the 2 is the longer one. I have an old LT1 damper assy so I will slip fit it, pull the keys out of the crank (no groove for keys on the LT1) and see if that can be made to work. IT clears the much thicker lt1 cover and optispark so it might just do the trick. If it does, I will have a dizzy on the front and a pump drive stub in the rear

 

Test fitted a slip fitted (and hacked for keyway) LS1 damper off a c4 corvette. It would work just fine, so an ati LT1 hub it will be. I'll have to figure out however if the inner shells are seperately available because the ati sbc dampers I have have a 1 piece hub and inner shell it seems and the spare shell I have does not have the inner one. Just the elastomers. The LT1 hub does not have an integral inner shell (I have used some of those on LT1s) I do not want the LT1 ribbed damper because I need the pulleys further out towards the front so I want to use a normal damper shell.