How hard is it to change the oil pump with the motor still in the car? Also what's a good replacement stock or the high volume?

 

Do you have 0 or very low Pressure?? bad OPSU? - ground, wire, or even the gauge, a stock pump is more then enough producing 45 - 60 lbs. If you do have very low pressure. You would also need to examine all the bearings.

 

No low oil pressure gauge is mechanical. I'm trying to track down a noise that my motor is producing and this is the last piece of the puzzle before I pull the motor and have to check the bearings. I don't want to pull the motor and check the bearings

 

pull the DIZZY. Make or get a oil pump prime rod. Spin this high speed on a drill. If you believe the noise is from the pump? you will need another ear to listen close to the oil pan.

 

Remove your serp belt fire up the car. just For a few moments.. Same noise?

 

Yes. I have another thread going about this problem. Mystery engine noise. Check that and it will tell you everything I've tried.

 

I would try my 1st suggestion. Pull the Dizz. Spin the pump with a drill using a prime attachment.

 

This.

 

yes, this - will tell you if it is the pump going bad. You have eliminated all other possibilities. leaving you with the pump, Main/ Rod bearings. Or the timing chain???

 

I have tried spinning the pump with a drill but there was no sound. But that doesn't mean anything because the sound starts once the motor is somewhat warm as in 100-150. So spinning it up when it's cold didn't help. I suppose I could spin it after running it and it's warm

 

Ok you can not change the oil pump with the motor still in the car

 

You can sort of change the pump with the motor in the car. You will end up wishing you had just pulled the motor. The trouble is getting the pan off. There is not enough clearance between the cross member and the trans tunnel to allow for raising the motor enough to clear the pan. If you pull the trans, disconnect wiring and hoses as needed, pull the radiator you can get the clearance you need. By this point, you may as well yank the motor.

One thing I have not tried is dropping the K member. This would mean disconnecting the steering and suspension as needed. I've seen others do it. I've seen the motor taken down with the K frame, like we do on late model cars. If you wanted to just lower the K frame and keep the engine up for clearance, you would need to support the motor from the top with a crane or hoist. It seems like it wouldn't be much time savings on these cars over pulling the motor out the top.